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Conduit and flashing? I used these (or something similar): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-to-1-in-Roof-Flashing-SE-Steel-60805/302848417

About 8kW Yesterday, it was clipping from 11:40 to 3:20 Agreed I really hate that saying Yup, I doubt I'll see any clipping once into the heat of summer. Luckily my string inverter is in the afternoon shade, I don't have that problem.

My local county runs hazmat disposal. It seems like the goal was to stop people pouring oil on the dirt and coolant down the sewer, but they will take anything. They took 4 cells, no problem.

Yeah, it's been pretty good the past few days! 51kWh from my AC coupled (limited by the 6kW inverter) and 7.8kWh DC coupled. But just like your system, the battery was charged by 12:15, so it could have been about double that. The AC this summer will be the real test of the added DC panels...

Normally common is power in and the NO and NC terminals are power out. Relays are just switches, they connect the common to one of the other terminals. They can also switch ground, but that's probably not how the RV is wired. Can you hook up the equipment and test how the thing functions? With...

Normally open means they default to off when not activated. This is the regular/standard relay terminal. I'd assume you have some load on the other end of the wires. Power one up and see what comes on?

I did the same, I know QO would have been a better choice. But Homeline was good enough and a huge improvement from the Zinsco. Now you tell me! I junked that thing full of questionable breakers years ago. Doh

It isn't just a battery charger.

I didn't look at the drawing the first time through. I don't think a rooftop PV disconnect is needed or meets code for the required firefighter disconnect.

Yes, you need to do something about those high temps (prob a loose connection somewhere getting hot) An AC unit is a band-aid that may not even address this issue. If it's 105 and hot in the middle of summer, then yes adding an AC unit may be the answer. There's also the possibility that those...

This line right here makes it grid tied. Why recharge from the grid? That will cost you something like 20% more energy due to inefficiency. Why not just switch those two loads over to the grid when the battery runs low? It's grid tied, you'll need to involve PGE. Well, need it PGE's opinion...

I had never heard of that one Share some pics (assembled and opened up), it might be something someone is interested in fixing.

Yup, you'd right. That stupid vent is always in a slightly different spot. Electric resistance is easier.

I dunno 'bout that 3-4 electrical connections and a gland right? With gas, it's one thread on fitting (2 if you do it by the book and replace the line) and a squirt bottle of soapy water to make sure it's sealed...

I don't have a solution other than a different air fryer or rewiring the one you've got. My ovens/air friers run on such a slow PWM dreque that I can hear hr XW pulse in and off, but the on/off cycles are like 20 seconds to 3 minutes (once heated up) I wonder if yours is cycling on and off at...

Congrats! Glad it's finally working. Sad that it took nearly a year and a half.

And here I thought I had been reading along the entire time. I missed that post entirely. Do you have net metering or are you hurting for power when the sun lines up with the array? Sorry if you already answered this too.

That's pretty neat, and lots of energy! Do you see production fall off in the morning at evening as the Sun is directly in line with the frames? Like due east or west?

Thanks for all the input! I too, thought these were long gone. Gobel shows backordered with an ETA a couple weeks out. Ezeal says they're in stock and ready to ship, with way more reasonable shipping than I expected. I'll probably double check the other 47 cells and place my order for 1 later...

I picked up a pile of used 280 aH cells from a member here. Turns out one more than expected was damaged and needs to be replaced. It has a popped vent. These are the blue Eve 280aH with the single threaded stud/hole on each terminal. Anyone have a good spare cell they'd like to sell...

Based on my 30 seconds of googling, that renogy charge controller is rated to 25 volt max PV input. So, you may have already blown it up, 25 volts is really low. But, I agree with others, there's either something wrong with your meter or your usage of it. Also, why the huge secrecy around the...

If you are into home automation you could use a smart plug to switch the load off when you are not exporting. That would mean it only uses energy from solar.

Looks like it might be the XW pro, not a standard old XW.

How quickly does it bounce around? Sounds like a bad connection in the wiring from that cell to the BMS.

Hey! A fellow member of OhmConnect. I've posted here a couple times. I've made something around $900 a per year the last 3+ years running. They're really pushing for Texas members to join.

The easier way to get there is to use watts per mile. Google and a reddit post says that is about 280-350 watts per mile. It's going to be worse when it's cold or if you have a lead foot. Let's say worst case 350 watts per mile x 40 miles is more like 14 kWh. But then you also need to include...

It's not, but it's not so bad. This wouldn't do anything to help balance the cells.

I'd call it plenty good enough. FYI, if the bus bars are still connected, they are what's holding all the cell voltages identical.

That page does to a GoDaddy, buy this domain link. Seems like they might have shut down.

Oh, it was a different drop down under the grid codes section. I hope all the disabled ones are actually disabled, I ignored any that said disabled.

I'd love to know why, that way we can more easily adjust the parameters. I'm not sitting in front of the settings page right now, got a screenshot?

On a different subject, I had another one of these events, where the XW charges and discharges from the grid on a wild back and forth full blast in both directions. At 9:30, while I was in the garage to realize what was happening. I tried a few different things before I realized I should measure...

I agree they're better off redesignate with a new color. I was saying that I'm pretty sure that NEC says you're just supposed to use the correct color wire below certain gauge. I'm still not sure what the threshold is, maybe 6awg is the smallest that can be redesignated. On #12, you are...

Good catch. I don't know think you're supposed to redesignate wires that small. The minimum gauge is probably in the 8-10 awg region.

I did some hunting and the lathe main motor is 7.5 hp, the problem is that there's likely a second motor The machine is only labeled at 460vac, but there are a couple threads online of people converting everything over to 240 The lathe is a Leblond Makino Servo Shift Engine Lathe. There's...