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Big TV for my Tiny flat - Great Experiment

sibaroni

New Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2023
Messages
19
Location
Crewe
Currently, I have a HP 32" monitor running 12v , well via a laptop car adapter to boost to 20v. Runs great with my Google 4k dongle.
Now, going to experiment with my 55" Toshiba TV....Just waiting for a little extension cable which I can connect to the TV plug... The TV only needs 80 watts to run. It's been sat gathering dust for ages as it is too expensive to run over an AC inverter....10 amps draw.
The HP is 2 amp draw...it may all go bang, but hey..It's old, selling it on, I'd only get £20 for it on Marketplace. no one wants them basically .
I'll update....
This is one of the reasons to go 48v, but too late for me to change now.
 
The TV only needs 80 watts to run. It's been sat gathering dust for ages as it is too expensive to run over an AC inverter....10 amps draw.
This doesn’t make sense to me.

80W tv, plus say 15% inverter “losses,” running from 12V nominal is like ~8A. Might be less.

So if the inverter is a pure sine inverter as it should be- and noting the 24W nominal difference (2A) is the ‘cost’ of running the inverter no load- 10A is about right.

Some ‘modified sine’ inverters (which I would never use unless all it does is run a resistance load) will ‘waste’ some energy to heat, throwing away power versus comparable pure sine inverters.

Running it “on 12V” if the TV is built with typical AC-to-DC 12VDC/5VDC/19VDC circuits is only going to preserve 2Ah/hour of battery. It will still use 80W (or a bit less as you’ll bypass the onboard converter/rectifier).

Even one 100W panel would make up that difference and then some given any moderate sun.

Being that you titled this as an experiment and that’s fine- I love to play around with stuff too- go right ahead if you like the entertainment. But from a practical perspective:
It's been sat gathering dust for ages as it is too expensive to run over an AC inverter....10 amps draw.
…I’m unclear on that small potential benefit.

A little guessing here but- for example- my fridge “runs” at 60-65W. The inverter idle is ~20W+/-, cell booster is 5-6W 24/7, electronic mouse avoider is ~4-5W and though inverter is on 24/7/365.3 it’s all successfully being sustained on ~1800W-ish of panels.

In your case I’d just source an appropriate ’extra’ panel and abandon the worry over 24W.
 
It didn't work...no stressing about it..not enough ooomph basically.
I use my HP 4k 32" Monitor on 12v anyways so I don't actually need it.
I've already got my refrigeration and other stuff on the inverter supply 24/7, so , as I cannot randomly add solar panels ad infinitum all the time....I'll probably have to give it away on marketplace...no one wants the damn things anymore, only for £40....when they retail at 400.
 
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