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Dishypowa 48V LFP and Starlink

NorthTown2022

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Northern Ontario
Our system consists of a a (8) 475W bifacial panels, a 48V LFP battery, a Victron Quattro 48/5000/70 an MPPT 250/100 and a Cerbo GX.

Once final installation of our off grid solar system takes place I would like to power Starlink directly from our 48V LFP battery. I would like to add a Dishypowa PoE injector along with a Victron 48V battery protect to do this. This seems like a more efficient way to go rather than powering the Quattro at all times.

Any thoughts? Does anyone have a setup similar to this?

1679186460650.png
 
Starlink normally come with its own router & POE injector.
They are selling the Aerial, Router & POE injector with about 40 feet of network cable for ~USD $303 in Australia.
It all comes in the one box.
The main power usage would be by the router easily.
I just fitted a Starlink system in Mt Dare the remotest hotel in Australia.
 
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Any progress with DC powering dishy?
Yes it has been working great so far. I used the Orion-Tr48/48-6 to stablaize power and ended up purchasing the Yaosheng POE injector instead.

YAOSHENG 150W GigE Passive PoE Injector with Surge Protection,Developed for Dishy V2 pinout. 48-57V / 3A / 150W,Silver https://a.co/d/dsd74q1

Also used thier cable adapter instead of hacking up the OEM Starlink cable.

YAOSHENG Rectangular Dishy Cable Adapter to RJ45. Connect Your Dishy V2 to PoE Injector Quickly and Easily. https://a.co/d/el5D9NQ
 
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Yes it has been working great so far. I used the Orion IP43-Tr 48/48V-8A to stablaize power and ended up purchasing the Yaosheng POE injector instead.

YAOSHENG 150W GigE Passive PoE Injector with Surge Protection,Developed for Dishy V2 pinout. 48-57V / 3A / 150W,Silver https://a.co/d/dsd74q1

Also used thier cable adapter instead of hacking up the OEM Starlink cable.

YAOSHENG Rectangular Dishy Cable Adapter to RJ45. Connect Your Dishy V2 to PoE Injector Quickly and Easily. https://a.co/d/el5D9NQ

On @NorthTown2022 's recommendation, I'm also using the YAOSHENG PoE injector for a V1 Starlink. It powers it directly without any modification or special adapter for the dish cable. I did it by stacking inefficiencies.

Since my 48V battery might go as high as 58.8V, I had to limit it to 48V. Already had a 48V (30-60V) to 12V 20A (240W) converter running my Mini PC running Batrium Toolkit and my Wifi access point. Whelp... 12V to 48V/6A (288W) inverter... powered by the 48 to 12V converter.
 
Yes it has been working great so far. I used the Orion IP43-Tr 48/48V-8A to stablaize power and ended up purchasing the Yaosheng POE injector instead.

YAOSHENG 150W GigE Passive PoE Injector with Surge Protection,Developed for Dishy V2 pinout. 48-57V / 3A / 150W,Silver https://a.co/d/dsd74q1

Also used thier cable adapter instead of hacking up the OEM Starlink cable.

YAOSHENG Rectangular Dishy Cable Adapter to RJ45. Connect Your Dishy V2 to PoE Injector Quickly and Easily. https://a.co/d/el5D9NQ

That's great to hear. I'm thinking about getting that Yaosheng and wiring it up to my 48V bus bar via some kind of relay (that I haven't found yet) that will connect to my Cerbo GX so I can turn dishy on/off over the LAN. I think that Yaosheng says it can go up to 56V and I don't think my bus bar will ever see more than 53V since Victron limits the MPPT charge to Pylontech batteries to 52.4V (the battery BMS will request 53.2V but gets overridden by Victron in DVCC) so I think that should work.

Now I just need to figure out some kind of relay for the Cerbo.

Have you noticed any significant power savings after your conversion?
 
That's great to hear. I'm thinking about getting that Yaosheng and wiring it up to my 48V bus bar via some kind of relay (that I haven't found yet) that will connect to my Cerbo GX so I can turn dishy on/off over the LAN. I think that Yaosheng says it can go up to 56V and I don't think my bus bar will ever see more than 53V since Victron limits the MPPT charge to Pylontech batteries to 52.4V (the battery BMS will request 53.2V but gets overridden by Victron in DVCC) so I think that should work. Now I just need to figure out some kind of relay for the Cerbo.
If you use a Victron 48V DC Converter you can convert your fluctuating voltage to 56V AND use the on/off relay function

1696782255937.png
Meanwell also sells a 48VDC converter a lot of people are using. I believe you can crank it up to ~57VDC. Not sure if it has a relay.

There is also this type of relay

Kadimendium Wi-Fi Relay Module Dual‑Channel PCB DC 8‑80V Electronic Components Industrial Parts for ESP8266 Secondary Development Learning https://a.co/d/7rGLLvu

Have you noticed any significant power savings after your conversion?
I have never measured the wattage but hear there is ~30% power savings. My DC circuit is loaded up with goodies and still only burning ~60W :)
 
If you use a Victron 48V DC Converter you can convert your fluctuating voltage to 56V AND use the on/off relay function

View attachment 171338
Meanwell also sells a 48VDC converter a lot of people are using. I believe you can crank it up to ~57VDC. Not sure if it has a relay.

There is also this type of relay

Kadimendium Wi-Fi Relay Module Dual‑Channel PCB DC 8‑80V Electronic Components Industrial Parts for ESP8266 Secondary Development Learning https://a.co/d/7rGLLvu


I have never measured the wattage but hear there is ~30% power savings. My DC circuit is loaded up with goodies and still only burning ~60W :)

If the Yaosheng can handle 48-56V and my bus bar doesn't exceed 53V, would I need to get that Orion? Do you think it would matter that the voltage would fluctuate as far as the Yaosheng is concerned?

If your DC circuit is only burning 60W including dishy, that's freakin' awesome.
 
If the Yaosheng can handle 48-56V and my bus bar doesn't exceed 53V, would I need to get that Orion? Do you think it would matter that the voltage would fluctuate as far as the Yaosheng is concerned?
You may get away without one but I can't say for sure. I had reached out to the owner of the company that produces the Yaosheng. He recommended stabalizing the voltage. I didn't want to risk frying anything so I went with it.
If your DC circuit is only burning 60W including dishy, that's freakin' awesome.
I've got a DC energy meter installed ~60W is a rough estimate. That does climb when dishy is booting up and melting snow!
 
You may get away without one but I can't say for sure. I had reached out to the owner of the company that produces the Yaosheng. He recommended stabalizing the voltage. I didn't want to risk frying anything so I went with it.

I've got a DC energy meter installed ~60W is a rough estimate. That does climb when dishy is booting up and melting snow!

I think I'm sold. Better safe than sorry with the Orion.

And I would think...since the Orion would supply power to the POE injector....I could turn the Orion on/off over the LAN and so it would stop or start providing power to Dishy that way....and so I wouldn't even need a relay would I? Or does the Orion not talk to the Cerbo GX?

Edit: seems the Orion doesn't talk to the Cerbo? Victron has some issues with manuals, but man, the Orion manual is like a quarter page pamphlet. Does it talk to the Cerbo? How do you operate the relay if not?
 
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I think I'm sold. Better safe than sorry with the Orion.

And I would think...since the Orion would supply power to the POE injector....I could turn the Orion on/off over the LAN and so it would stop or start providing power to Dishy that way....and so I wouldn't even need a relay would I? Or does the Orion not talk to the Cerbo GX?

Edit: seems the Orion doesn't talk to the Cerbo? Victron has some issues with manuals, but man, the Orion manual is like a quarter page pamphlet. Does it talk to the Cerbo? How do you operate the relay if not?
The Orion does not talk to Cerbo. It comes with a jumper on the remote switch. I cant see why you couldn't just remove it and wire the switch into the Cerbo's relay.
 
The Orion does not talk to Cerbo. It comes with a jumper on the remote switch. I cant see why you couldn't just remove it and wire the switch into the Cerbo's relay.

Do you use the 120W Orion or the 280W one? I'm guessing with Dishy melting snow, the 280W one might be the better fit?

What kind of 48V fuses did you use for your Orion since it doesn't come with a fuse unlike the 24V and 12V models?

Apparently I'm going to need a 48V or 60V fuse on the input side close to the battery bus, and a 48V fuse on the output side close to the Orion. I guess it's tough to find such fuses less than 30A so I'm guessing they'll both be 30A fuses and I'll make sure the cables I use can handle more than 30A.
 
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Do you use the 120W Orion or the 280W one? I'm guessing with Dishy melting snow, the 280W one might be the better fit?
280W yes room for boot up and snow melt.

What kind of 48V fuses did you use for your Orion since it doesn't come with a fuse unlike the 24V and 12V models?
Spent quite a bit of time researching fuses and came up with absolutely nothing. Not sure why smaller fuses above 32V are non existent?

Apparently I'm going to need a 48V or 60V fuse on the input side close to the battery bus, and a 48V fuse on the output side close to the Orion. I guess it's tough to find such fuses less than 30A so I'm guessing they'll both be 30A fuses and I'll make sure the cables I use can handle more than 30A.
I ran out of time researching and wanted it up and running so I did the install without any OCP. I do have plans to add something later, likely one of the MNEP series breakers..

 
280W yes room for boot up and snow melt.


Spent quite a bit of time researching fuses and came up with absolutely nothing. Not sure why smaller fuses above 32V are non existent?


I ran out of time researching and wanted it up and running so I did the install without any OCP. I do have plans to add something later, likely one of the MNEP series breakers..


Yeah, this part is kind of a pain so far. Too bad Victron chose not to fuse this thing like they do the other models.

Since I have 38KW of lithium plugged into the bus, I'm thinking a t-class fuse like the other fuses I have on the bus. But since it's such a low amperage, I'm having to explore other options. The 10AWG cable I'll be using is only rated at 60A.

Littelfuse has t-class fuses as low as 10A. I'm thinking of perhaps a 50A version. My jello reasoning is to make sure the wires are protected but allow for any in-rush the system might have with the batteries to avoid nuisance blows. But they're "cartridge fuses" and the holders seem to hold three of them for some reason. I suppose I could get one holder and two fuses and wire both the input and output sides through it even though I don't think I'd need a t-class fuse on the output side. The fuses are rated for way above 60V so I think that will work and it's only the amperage that matters. And they have the t-class high level interrupt capability which I think is a good thing. No idea of pricing on these though.

 
Yeah, this part is kind of a pain so far. Too bad Victron chose not to fuse this thing like they do the other models.
Maybe they had trouble finding a fuse ?
Since I have 38KW of lithium plugged into the bus, I'm thinking a t-class fuse like the other fuses I have on the bus. But since it's such a low amperage, I'm having to explore other options. The 10AWG cable I'll be using is only rated at 60A.

Littelfuse has t-class fuses as low as 10A. I'm thinking of perhaps a 50A version. My jello reasoning is to make sure the wires are protected but allow for any in-rush the system might have with the batteries to avoid nuisance blows. But they're "cartridge fuses" and the holders seem to hold three of them for some reason. I suppose I could get one holder and two fuses and wire both the input and output sides through it even though I don't think I'd need a t-class fuse on the output side. The fuses are rated for way above 60V so I think that will work and it's only the amperage that matters. And they have the t-class high level interrupt capability which I think is a good thing. No idea of pricing on these though.

My knowledge of fusing is limited. The only thing I know about class T fuses is that I've got one close to the positive terminal of my battery.
 
Maybe they had trouble finding a fuse ?

My knowledge of fusing is limited. The only thing I know about class T fuses is that I've got one close to the positive terminal of my battery.

I've got the same, t-fuses close to the positive terminal of all my batteries. Makes me wonder how important the fusing is to this Orion....

And my knowledge of using is, at the best, no better than yours. But at least I'm just in a forest rather than on a boat. I guess....
 
Maybe they had trouble finding a fuse ?

My knowledge of fusing is limited. The only thing I know about class T fuses is that I've got one close to the positive terminal of my battery.

What kind of connectors did you use for the input of the POE injector power if anything? Maybe those fork connectors since the little screw goes down through the center?

I'm trying to stuff plain stripped 10AWG in there and it's not making a great connection, maybe it's too big.
 

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