diy solar

diy solar

EG4 18k love it, but have a few issues

flcracker

New Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2023
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9
Location
Orlando,Fl
I have one finally all setup and had an issue with it randomly exporting to the grid, everything was set to no export, zero W export, but it still did. Some of the manuals wording of the onscreen selections are different then mine. Like manual has “fast zero export” but on my screen it says “zero export” I had to restart the unit twice before it finally let me select it. Hope that fixed the issue. Other big issue is my account won’t work I get a “null” error from the EG4 website and the app says my account is unknown. SS has been unable to fix the problem as of yet, and if there’s firmware updates I can’t download or install them. Only thing I can do is use the app while logged into the Wi-Fi hotspot locally. I did get Solar Assistant to login to it so I can remotely monitor the unit, but can’t do much else. And my fans haven’t really turned on much, even with inverting about 6-7kw of Solar and charging the batteries and running a 4-5kw load. The top of the unit gets pretty hot almost to hot to keep my hand on for to long. Is your unit doing that? Very top and near the back.
 
If it's like a sol-ark then you need to set the zero export power to >0W. Most people use around 50W.
 
If it's like a sol-ark then you need to set the zero export power to >0W. Most people use around 50W.
I had it set to 0w, but it still was doing it. I got that issue resolved by finally getting the unit to let me check the box for “zero export” it was not working on previous attempts to select it.
 
I had it set to 0w, but it still was doing it. I got that issue resolved by finally getting the unit to let me check the box for “zero export” it was not working on previous attempts to select it.
0W is too low for a sol-ark. No idea about the EG4 though.
 
That setting is for how much you IMPORT, not export. Setting it too low will cause it to export.
 
As soon as I got the zero export checked it stopped and with the 0w max export still set
The sol-ark 15k has a setting called "Grid Sell" for setting the maximum export power. It has another setting called "Zero-Export Power" that sets the minimum import power target for limited to home mode. Does the EG4 have the equivalent of both of those settings?
 
@niktak11 is correct. No inverter is not PERFECTLY accurate. So to prevent accidental sell back of small amounts, or if there is a surge in the home, then its best to have a small draw on the grid of ~50w. This ensures there is no accidental sell back, and gives the inverter time to react to surges and prevent accidental sell back.

So just because the inverter SAYS there is 0w going back to the grid, doesn't mean its true. It could be exporting 20w and you have no idea.
 
The sol-ark 15k has a setting called "Grid Sell" for setting the maximum export power. It has another setting called "Zero-Export Power" that sets the minimum import power target for limited to home mode. Does the EG4 have the equivalent of both of those settings?
dude what the sol-ark has or does is not relevant to this post! STOP! I already said it has been solved by leaving the 0w export setting and finally getting the zero export check box selected. And NO it’s not for importing from the grid…… bottom of page 58 of the EG4 18k manual. Feed-in does not mean feed import!
 
@niktak11 is correct. No inverter is not PERFECTLY accurate. So to prevent accidental sell back of small amounts, or if there is a surge in the home, then its best to have a small draw on the grid of ~50w. This ensures there is no accidental sell back, and gives the inverter time to react to surges and prevent accidental sell back.

So just because the inverter SAYS there is 0w going back to the grid, doesn't mean its true. It could be exporting 20w and you have no idea.
Again the key to this was the checkbox on the zero export. I couldn‘t select it at first. It checks the line every 20ms and stops any feed back. The setting he keeps talking about has nothing to do with this! The 0w setting is correct to have set on the EG4 18k per the manual
 
New member, I apologize if I sound stoopid, this is a little long. I am all electric, in Phoenix AZ. I have two EV's a Kona, and a Niro. Last year, in preparation for a solar install, replacing some aluminum wiring, and setting up a charging pedestal outside), I moved all my loads inside to a utility room on a 100A (125A w/downsized breaker) load center, behind another 100A breaker from the outside 150A panel connected to the secondary of a 100A transfer switch with the primary on a 150A bus bar for the inverter(s) AC bus. I put in a couple of amperage sensors (modbus) on the legs in the panel, and wrote some software (using modbus libraries and C) for an SBC to monitor the loads. Further, to limit demand, I put my HWH behind an EV switch in front of the dryer line, so only one can run at a time, priority to the dryer. The range circuit is connected to another transfer switch controlled by my software and the SBC, allows me to cut the load back to the outside panel based on load. A third transfer switch controls a 50A service from the panel out to a pedestal outside for EV charging, and a fourth transfer switch is connected to the 30A circuit running an EV charger in the garage, being used as a simple on/off relay (for time of use), both controlled by my SBC and a relay board.

I had 5 inexpensive "parallel capable" 5.6K units that literally fell over during a stress test, ... as in turned off dead displays, no thrown breakers, power switch on-off to reset, no recorded errors pulling about 30 amps when the AC turned on poof. So I threw caution to the wind, purchased and just this week mounted two (2) of these 18K units in my utility room on the cement board. My problem is everyone has great instructions and stuff for a single unit, but the minute you go parallel, things get kind of quiet, and I want to be sure of handling a peak 100A of service to my panel that doesn't fall over when the AC cuts on. I note the highest single leg current I have recorded was around 87 amps, and I'm polling at 5s intervals. (I have grafana running with pretty load graphs and stuff).

My questions are about general wiring and parallel operation, maybe someone here has insight, and maybe I'm asking in the wrong place, if so sorry. The original idea was to run the inverters all the time, no feeds or taps against the grid. The batteries should charge from PV during the day (14KW, 4 strings) then drop to batteries (Full Rack of 6 EG4 30KW) as the sun goes down. Average nitetime draw is < 2KW (might go up a bit in Jul/Aug) so if the the batteries fall below say 15% SOC, overnight, I wanted to feed 40A from my grid panel to charge them. I had purchased an EG4 charge controller I was going to wire to the SBC and use modbus to monitor the batteries flipping on a relay with the SBC based on time of day and SOC. I think this unit will do this, perhaps using generator inputs? I think I can allow that feed to keep the batteries at some minimal SOC (maybe between 15 and 20%) until the sun shines again. Or ... should I be tying to the grid inputs and set the inverter to not feed the grid, and limit the charge current there? Does it matter? Can this work as indended?

The next question revolves around grounds and grounding the neutral. The transfer switch is switching L1,L2 and N, it has an empty 4th pole. In the electronics and server room world I'm from grounds are always as short as possible to the nearest ground. However the instructions from SS seem fuzzy on where/how to ground neutral. My best guess is to leave the N-G tie back at the outside panel (It's 3ish wire feet, or less on the other side of a wall from the new load panel), let the 3 pole transfer do it's thing, and just ground everything as close as possible from the inverters. I've been doing a lot of reading on this one and it seems the relevant ieee 1547? is kind of fuzzy. IMHSHO opinion you should not really ever switch a ground, but I could use the dry contacts on the transfer switch to activate a N-G at the 100A panel when the inverters are supplying power. The extra parallel inverter makes it more fun, that configuration gets an honorable mention in the SigSolar video's.

Finally 'RSD' & PV. My solar PV junction box is on the outside near the panel. It is wired for 6 independent strings each individually breakered and surge grounded. I only have 4 strings connected at present (400voc,11a) but I will wire all 6 as 3+3 to the MPPT's 1,3&4 inputs with input 4 on both as N/C for now. on the ground front should I drive a seperate ground rod in below the box and tie to that for the surge blocks? AZ does not require RSD, so I had no plan for it, in the original configuration. OTOH I'm all for safety. One can just open the panel and flip the breakers from the outside, but how would the folks here handle this? Apparently we have wires and wireless something that isn't real clear to me that will drop the draw inside the inverters when you press the/a button, send a wireless signal, do a dance near a box? The concept seems odd. If the house catches fire, the inverters have redundant inputs, and the panels on the roof are going to be in the process of getting destroyed. The rack of lithum batteries on the other hand. . .

I'm committed at this point. Any insights appreciated. Thank you.
 
I have one finally all setup and had an issue with it randomly exporting to the grid, everything was set to no export, zero W export, but it still did. Some of the manuals wording of the onscreen selections are different then mine. Like manual has “fast zero export” but on my screen it says “zero export” I had to restart the unit twice before it finally let me select it. Hope that fixed the issue. Other big issue is my account won’t work I get a “null” error from the EG4 website and the app says my account is unknown. SS has been unable to fix the problem as of yet, and if there’s firmware updates I can’t download or install them. Only thing I can do is use the app while logged into the Wi-Fi hotspot locally. I did get Solar Assistant to login to it so I can remotely monitor the unit, but can’t do much else. And my fans haven’t really turned on much, even with inverting about 6-7kw of Solar and charging the batteries and running a 4-5kw load. The top of the unit gets pretty hot almost to hot to keep my hand on for to long. Is your unit doing that? Very top and near the back.
Hi have have an 18k install about two weeks ago and having similar problems that you mention. Was trying to use my grid tie for only charging my batteries when the voltage get to a low preset value and then release the grid when the upper value is met. The 18k kept switching back and forth to the grid and batteries or solar. Never got it corrected so I just switch my grid feed to my 6000xp to grid tie mode for battery charging if needed.
Also about the fans , I have never heard the fans running even with 8kw of Solar feeding the 18k and about 3kw of load. Would like to know if you discovered anything about the fan situation.
Thanks John
 
Would like to know if you discovered anything about the fan situation.
There is a thread on the fans floating around. They will crank up if you push it. You are likely not pushing it. My pair is in a small utility room with no HVAC. Not really a lot of activity on the fans when the room is 110+F until I ramp up output.
 
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