Help In Land O Lakes, FL

doksinc · Oct 25, 2023

pvgirl said:
If you just have a 200 amp main panel you can also just do whole house backup.

Our main panel is 200amp main, so I don't need to split out critical loads to sub-panel from the load circuit of 18kpv? So I'd have to run load circuit of 18kpv to a manual switch?

pvgirl · Oct 25, 2023

doksinc said:
Our main panel is 200amp main, so I don't need to split out critical loads to sub-panel from the load circuit of 18kpv?

No check the whole home wiring backup diagrams in the manual

doksinc · Oct 25, 2023

pvgirl said:
No check the whole home wiring backup diagrams in the manual

The whole home backup diagram makes no sense...why would I have to install a manual transfer switch in the event that power goes out? So I'd have to walk out to garage and flip the switch? I would think that this would be automatic in the event of a power outage? Or am I just being a total newbie here? Help?

pvgirl · Oct 25, 2023

doksinc said:
The whole home backup diagram makes no sense...why would I have to install a manual transfer switch in the event that power goes out? So I'd have to walk out to garage and flip the switch? I would think that this would be automatic in the event of a power outage? Or am I just being a total newbie here? Help?

The manual transfer is only used in rare cases of issues with the inverter, it's only used if the inverter has issues and it's own internal bypass isn't working, to restore power to the house by bypassing the inverter. During normal operations the inverter takes care of everything and automatically use power from grid, solar and battery as need. The manual transfer switch is optional.

doksinc · Oct 25, 2023

pvgirl said:
The manual transfer is only used in rare cases of issues with the inverter, it's only used if the inverter has issues and it's own internal bypass isn't working, to restore power to the house by bypassing the inverter. During normal operations the inverter takes care of everything and automatically use power from grid, solar and battery as need. The manual transfer switch is optional.

So I don't need to connect anything to the load side of the inverter? Simply do the supply side taps to the "grid" terminals on the 18kpv and thats it?

pvgirl · Oct 25, 2023

doksinc said:
So I don't need to connect anything to the load side of the inverter? Simply do the supply side taps to the "grid" terminals on the 18kpv and thats it?

Your main panel goes on the load side of the inverter, and the grid side of the inverter goes to the meter, with a service disconnect switch between. All power passes thru the inverter

BKY2003 · Oct 25, 2023

I would check with your homeowners insurance also, to make sure they don’t have a problem with it. They are starting to drop Florida homeowners. My insurance told me since I had a ground mount and it’s not on my house they’re ok with it.

Quattrohead · Oct 25, 2023

If your home is like most in florida, you will have a 200 amp disconnect at the meter already so it is very trivial to add the inverter between that and your breaker panel. That is how mine is done and the operation is completely automagic.
Edit to add, trivial in the electrical sense but possibly you will need some digging in your walls to pop your wires out of the breaker box and into the inverter.

doksinc · Oct 25, 2023

Making complete sense now. Thank you all!

n2aws · Oct 25, 2023

doksinc said:
Hopefully this isn't a redundant post. But looking for opinions, experience, and or suggestions before I pull the trigger on this system from Signature Solar.

So the design is EG4 18kPV All-In-One Hybrid Inverter, 24@ 400 watt Canadian Solar panels for 9.6kW (trying to stay under the 10kW Duke Energy requirements for the 1m liability policy), ground mount system utilizing IronRidge with anchor screws. Solar array will be approximately 120' from my garage where panel is located, so will trench the DC (10g) runs 3x8 to DC disconnects near meter then connected to inverter inside garage.

My questions:
1: I will most likely expand this system later. Addition of batteries, another array etc. What are thoughts about equipment, design with this in mind.
2: I am completely out of slots for the inverter to connect to my electrical panel, should I hire an electrical contractor to upgrade first? (currently have 200amp panel)
3: Permitting....has anyone pulled DIY/homeowner permits in Pasco County FL that has experience with the local gov?
4: Would you do anything different than my current plan?

Appreciate any thoughts and welcome your input/experience. Trying to get this ordered while free shipping during this month, and tax advantages before the end of the year.

Just a heads up.

I looked into the insurance requirements for tier2 systems in FL (I have FPL, but they have the exact same requirement)

A $1m umbrella policy is roughly $15/month. so, depending on how much you'd need.. it may be worth considering. if you are within 1 or 2k PV of zeroing out your bill, it may not be worth it. but.. if you need like 15 or 18k PV (like me) then, tier2 is potentially useful.

doksinc · Nov 4, 2023

This project is moving along nicely! Honestly, so far easier than I expected. PE stamped design for electrical and structural almost complete (Green Lancer). Will be submitted to Pasco next week. Changed the design a bit with the ground mount as the price of steel is outrageous....honestly was going to be almost as much as the solar equipment even as a DIY install. Decided after much investigation to utilize a precast ballast type mount, and will be a much easier install. I appreciate all of the help from the forum so far and will post pics as we progress. Thank you all!

doksinc · Nov 7, 2023

Ground mount ballast arrived today, brand is SunBallast founded in Italy. They just opened a store here in Clearwater, FL. Honestly...couldn't be any simpler for a ground mount or flat roof array. This is not final as I need to find true "solar south" etc. But just wanted to play with set up before panels arrive. First string of ballast took approximately 1 hour to set up alone. Each ballast weighs around 120lb with an additional weight of 60ish lbs. Very cool system, and way more cost effective vs the price of steel nowadays.

doksinc · Dec 27, 2023

Need advice please: EG4 18KPV has 3 MPPT inputs. Input #1 is system defined parallel. I currently have installed 2 strings of Canadian Solar CS6R-400MS-HL 400 watt panels in 12 panels per string. So my math is 12.99A at 441.6V (36.8 x 12). If I put both strings into MPPT #1 that will put the strings in parallel at 25.98A (which the inverter automatically limits the parallel connection to 25A).

So should I put one string in to MPPT #1 and second string into MPPT #2? In the very near future I will be adding another 12 panel of same brand and size. MPPT #2 and #3 are limited to 15A each.

n2aws · Dec 27, 2023

doksinc said:
Need advice please: EG4 18KPV has 3 MPPT inputs. Input #1 is system defined parallel. I currently have installed 2 strings of Canadian Solar CS6R-400MS-HL 400 watt panels in 12 panels per string. So my math is 12.99A at 441.6V (36.8 x 12). If I put both strings into MPPT #1 that will put the strings in parallel at 25.98A (which the inverter automatically limits the parallel connection to 25A).

So should I put one string in to MPPT #1 and second string into MPPT #2? In the very near future I will be adding another 12 panel of same brand and size. MPPT #2 and #3 are limited to 15A each.

View attachment 185264 View attachment 185266

If the arrays are identical, facing the same direction, and have no shading.. you can combine them on mppt #1. it'll clip off 1a of power during the absolute maximum production, which realistically you'll rarely see in the real world.

That said, the 18kpv has 3 MPPT's. you mention these 2 arrays and another 1 coming in the future. If that is the extent of your expansions, you could just do 1 string per MPPT. If you do that, you don't have to worry about the MPPT clipping the output at peak, and always have the option of combining those 2 strings into mppt1 later, should you decide to add another array in the future.

Real word though, I don't think either choice is "better" over the other. Just leave a bit of excess wire so you can move the arrays around later if needed.

doksinc · Dec 27, 2023

n2aws said:
If the arrays are identical, facing the same direction, and have no shading.. you can combine them on mppt #1. it'll clip off 1a of power during the absolute maximum production, which realistically you'll rarely see in the real world.

That said, the 18kpv has 3 MPPT's. you mention these 2 arrays and another 1 coming in the future. If that is the extent of your expansions, you could just do 1 string per MPPT. If you do that, you don't have to worry about the MPPT clipping the output at peak, and always have the option of combining those 2 strings into mppt1 later, should you decide to add another array in the future.

Real word though, I don't think either choice is "better" over the other. Just leave a bit of excess wire so you can move the arrays around later if needed.

Thank you, appreciate the help. Wasn't sure if running them on MPPT #1 in parallel made any significant difference. All panels facing same direction and no shading.

n2aws · Dec 27, 2023

doksinc said:
Thank you, appreciate the help. Wasn't sure if running them on MPPT #1 in parallel made any significant difference. All panels facing same direction and no shading.

Realistically, I don't think you'd see any real world difference. *technically* the MPPT 1 would clip around 1 amp of current during the absolute best production output from the arrays, which will likely never happen, or only a handful of hours through the year. I gues in your shoes, if I had the extra mppt available, I'd leave them split. Then if I added another array in the future, combine them on the mppt1 channel later.

doksinc · Jan 2, 2024

Another question: anyone know if I can run PVC SCH 40 through my garage attic for my PV runs to inverter? My approved plans state this is my install, however after reading some NEC rules, it states that PV runs through garage/attic need to be in metallic conduit.

Quattrohead · Jan 2, 2024

All DC wiring should be in metal conduit or metal clad cable.
I will be using 10/2 Metal Clad (MC) Cable with Ground, Aluminum Armored, Solid Copper Conductors.

doksinc · Jan 27, 2024

Just wanted to write a quick note thanking everyone on this forum for their help. Just finished install (other than a couple more stickers to place and a map placard) pretty much ready for final inspection. Very happy with install of a system that is very expandable. Batteries soon as well as critical load panel. For now, just grid connection. Will be adding another array very soon for 14.4kw of solar. Right now system is 9.6. Appreciate everyones advice...Thank you!