Moretorque
New Member
Yes I want a dooms day system,
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Hi all Scotty here, I want to build a small portable system for the Enterprise, lots of free energy out here.
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Moretorque
New Member
Who is real good at this on this site so I can send them a check and have them design it for me, we can call it the Dooms Day Special by Engineer Scott of the USS Enterprise. Though I'm not an engineer I can pretend, why not this entire civilization is fake so it will just be my niche in it..
Thanks for all the help...
Thanks for all the help...
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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Four 12V lead-acid batteries wired series for 48V, no problem.
Four lithium batteries, issue is whether BMS can handle disconnecting or will be damaged by the voltage. Specs should say.
Also, lithium batteries will get imbalanced, can't be equalized like lead-acid.
It is preferable to get one 48V lithium battery. For $1200 and up, "server rack". There are also large boxed batteries.
Forum members will help review designs you post. It ought to be your own design. You can see block diagrams in data sheets for inverters. Selecting an AIO would keep it simple. For instance:
Four lithium batteries, issue is whether BMS can handle disconnecting or will be damaged by the voltage. Specs should say.
Also, lithium batteries will get imbalanced, can't be equalized like lead-acid.
It is preferable to get one 48V lithium battery. For $1200 and up, "server rack". There are also large boxed batteries.
Forum members will help review designs you post. It ought to be your own design. You can see block diagrams in data sheets for inverters. Selecting an AIO would keep it simple. For instance:
Lithium Iron Phosphate(LiFePo4) batteries are significantly safer than Lithium Ion or Lithium polymer batteries which are known for burning down homes.
Some 12v lithium iron batteries can be connected in series and some cannot. It mainly has to do with the built in battery management systems(BMS) that regulate charging and generally protect the batteries.
Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are much better for a "dooms day" system as they have a much longer life span. Lead based batteries can only make something like 10 years with extreme care.
Most Lithium Phosphate batteries are not ideal for starting engines as they often have limited surge current. Starter motors can draw huge amounts of current for brief amounts of time and lead based starting batteries are designed for this. That said you could wire a number of them in parallel to start a engine. It just won't be a drop in replacement for the existing battery.
There are Lithium starter/booster packs that are designed to start engines. I'm assuming they are lithium ion based. The one I see many youtube mechanics use can be switched between 12 and 24v for starting heavy equipment.
Rather hard to design something that fills a need when the need is not clearly defined. Loads drive supply. You can't run a 1500w toaster if your supply is only 1000w. Though there are plenty of battery power boxes (some labeled as solar generators) being sold to folks that want a simple solution.
Perhaps some experimenting on your part will give you a feel for how and what works.
Moretorque
New Member
I don't have time to do that, I want to use some new some surplus and want somebody good I can pay to guide me on what to get. That would be much easier for me. I want to be able to run 2 fridge freezers, probably 300 watts of lights, 2 or 3 fans, washer dryer just a little and a hot plate computer or TV and stereo and have it to where it can charge items and is portable and easily broken down and setup. I was reading the AC units is what really draws the power so I will steer clear on that.. I figured a solid 3000 to 4000 watts...? Thanktou for posting.
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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You need to determine how many watt hours per day (or multiple days, if overcast). That is battery capacity.
And peak wattage, sum of nameplates that you will run at same time. Also, starting surge for motors, 5x nameplate.
Dryer? Is that gas, or electric? A window AC unit might run on 500W. An electric dryer might pull 5000W.
All 120V? or some 240V?
I understand fans can be a major consumer if run 24 hours/day.
Fridge/freezer vary greatly depending on vintage. Get a picture of nameplate, and look up consumer energy label for annual consumption.
And peak wattage, sum of nameplates that you will run at same time. Also, starting surge for motors, 5x nameplate.
Dryer? Is that gas, or electric? A window AC unit might run on 500W. An electric dryer might pull 5000W.
All 120V? or some 240V?
I understand fans can be a major consumer if run 24 hours/day.
Fridge/freezer vary greatly depending on vintage. Get a picture of nameplate, and look up consumer energy label for annual consumption.
Based on your needs the only recommendations I could give would be a gas or diesel generator on wheels rated at 10kW or a fairly large solar trailer setup with a large battery bank plus inverter. 3000-4000w likely will not power all that you mention. Clothes dryers frequently need that amount or more at 240vAC.
Panels are rated for efficiency utilizing a sun irradiance factor of 1000w per square meter. If a panel is 22% efficient that means it is rated for ~220w per square meter size. Add up the sq meters to get an idea of what you would be dealing with.
ETA: I am putting in an image of a recent 800w PV array I built to give you an idea of size to power. It is ~6ft by 7ft. Not terribly portable or easily broken down. Realize that it can only produce about 4-5kWh per day. About enough to power your 2 refrigerators.
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Moretorque
New Member
Forget the dryer but a washer to run a load every 3 days would be nice. 1 fridge and the rest would be good. I would take a diesel generator that runs on waste oil. I bought a old 1998 Dodge 5.9 Cummins 3500 just for that purpose. I want my power system to be quiet so I don't get eaten by the hoards of Zombies you know... I want the system to be like a Lego set to where I can just add to it. I would like to start out with 3000 wats of panels but will have lots more just laying around that I can add later. I have no problem buying the stuff just want it to make sense for something I can add and want it to all operate with extension style cords and even automotive jumper cables and bypass the house electrical but can be tied into main line if I ever desire... thanks... on the diesel generator the way to go with that is get a tractor with a PTO and hook a generator to the PTO. I learned that from Mike Adams of Natural News.. He is prepping for zombies and plans on shooting them..
RussNM
Solar Enthusiast
You do know that zombies are attracted to lights in a house when everybody else around you has gone black?
