diy solar

diy solar

Input and output swapped on a Victron Smartsolar 75/15

I use XT90 connectors. You can buy them with 10awg pigtails already soldered in and just use crimp connectors.
xt90

I know I am going to get grief for this, but I really dislike the whole XT connector family. To many knockoffs and to many ways to do the connectors wrong.

Since the user is supplying their own cables maybe use Anderson connectors on the case and supply a pigtail to connect to standard solar and battery. If you use a pigtail with different colors of anderson your instructions can reference that color along with the "you break it, you bought it" And a price to replace the pigtail if not returned to cover cost and labor to replace. And make/order extra and give the customer a purchase option. Have a laminated card with hookup instructions and your business logo/website/contact info. Be prepared for folks to want to just buy units outright. So, make several extras so you can fill an order of 6~12 units. and come up with a price to cover cost/labor/copywrite/engineering/insurance. The last two CYA in case someone is sue happy.

There is an engineering firm near here that provides that sort of service for a fee.
 
I know I am going to get grief for this, but I really dislike the whole XT connector family.
Not at all: https://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/standards.png

I standardized on Molex. And Andersen PowerPole. And 5.5x2.1 barrel. And SAE. And now Amphenol (or is it Degson?) weatherproof for the EG4 PowerPro. And did I mention several different 36 and 48V golf cart standards, some of which overlap and one of which I sourced myself?
 
I know I am going to get grief for this, but I really dislike the whole XT connector family. To many knockoffs and to many ways to do the connectors wrong.
I use all the various connectors. I like Anderson the best, it seems to be easiest to make up well, and has excellent parts.

XT is ok, soldering is a pain, especially on the 90… they work, but are annoying.

Anderson is far better, even the knockoffs are high quality.

For quick connect, I like the twist lock connectors with a set pin arrangement.
 
I use all the various connectors. I like Anderson the best, it seems to be easiest to make up well, and has excellent parts.

XT is ok, soldering is a pain, especially on the 90… they work, but are annoying.

Anderson is far better, even the knockoffs are high quality.

For quick connect, I like the twist lock connectors with a set pin arrangement.
Indeed, Anderson PowerPole for me too, except it's not very weatherproof, so I chose something else for my Lithium golf cart connection.

"That's the wonderful thing about standards, there are so many to choose from!"
 
How is heat dissipation going to work?

If it were me I would do it in one of a couple of ways.

Mount the MPPT in a well in the case with the fins level to the surface minus room for a door to cover it and keep junk out. Maybe a field replacable fan at the end and supply an extra when issuing it. Clipping bracket with mating socket for electrical connection. Make it 4 wire so the speed can be detected and prevent the system from running without it.

Mount the MPPT so the fins are in open air when case is open.

Attach the MPPT to a large chunk of aluminum that is part of the case for passive cooling.

Depends on the final look and use case. I would favor the first since it could be used in wet weather.
 
The non RS Victron SCCs tend to use the entire enclosure as a heatsink, in addition to the rear heatsink section. The entirety of it can get too hot to comfortably touch
 
The non RS Victron SCCs tend to use the entire enclosure as a heatsink, in addition to the rear heatsink section. The entirety of it can get too hot to comfortably touch

I was actually mentally picturing the Li Time 30 or 60 amp version.... I know it isn't blue and Eggo will cry, but they are cheaper and have huge fins so huge passive cooling
 
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