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Is this risky? SanTan used panels with backside vinyl cracking, tested good, no signs of moisture

I’ve only seen flexseal in poorly conceived repairs- think old camper roofs- and many of those subsequently failed again.

The Henry elastomeric “brilliant” white roof sealant I’ve use personally a bunch of times with 100% aged success. On roofs.

Available at Home Depot for ~$30/gal. That’s what I would use at a minimum.

A maybe better choice (I wouldn’t use the Henry below the waterline, def not flexseal!) would be the loctite branded polyurethane window and door caulking- at better ACE stores and Home Depot $9-ish/10.2oz tube.

(Absolutely DO NOT use silicone caulking. If it’s an actual deep crack it could DOA the circuitry strips in the panel at worst, at best it will make the expected follow up repair ineffective because it probably won’t stick by adhesion, just stiction )
Did you just roll it on, how do you need to prep the surface? Any Pictures?
 
Did you just roll it on, how do you need to prep the surface? Any Pictures?
I have 26 panels. Painters caulking works just fine. My panels were on ground all monsoon season
Only video I have really on sealing them technique. But I have lots of other videos one these panels on my channel if you are interested. Good luck
 
Did you just roll it on, how do you need to prep the surface? Any Pictures?
No pictures and 8” of snow on it right now…

But I washed it with a scrub brush on a 4’ pole (probably used TSP) or pinesol but don’t recall) and after it was rinsed and dried off I used a 1/2” nap 9” paint roller cover with an 8’ extension handle. The idea isn’t to roll it out ‘smooth’ or ‘thin’ but rather to create a cross-linked elastomeric membrane. So just enough rolling to level it up without pools or ridges. Then let it dry. I was working at a utility trailer dealer at the time so it was pulled in overnight to insure curing without dew settling but truthfully it was dry in a couple hours. I rolled a second coat on.

I’ve used that in several projects and it seals pinholes and dubious seams very well once cured.
Painters caulking works just fine
I wouldn’t do that!
 
No pictures and 8” of snow on it right now…

But I washed it with a scrub brush on a 4’ pole (probably used TSP) or pinesol but don’t recall) and after it was rinsed and dried off I used a 1/2” nap 9” paint roller cover with an 8’ extension handle. The idea isn’t to roll it out ‘smooth’ or ‘thin’ but rather to create a cross-linked elastomeric membrane. So just enough rolling to level it up without pools or ridges. Then let it dry. I was working at a utility trailer dealer at the time so it was pulled in overnight to insure curing without dew settling but truthfully it was dry in a couple hours. I rolled a second coat on.

I’ve used that in several projects and it seals pinholes and dubious seams very well once cured.

I wouldn’t do that!
It's not that serious. The panels aren't cracked except under the traces. You don't need to roof the backside. There will never be standing water on the back of a panel except when they process and wash them at santan. They stack them backside up
For what your spending to do this with the Henry stuff it's not cost effective. And these particular panels are no long available. They only ones they have now are the very bad ones that have water intrusion already. For $10 more you can get panels that aren't cracked.
If your that worried I wouldn't buy cracked vinyl panels. The $44 panels are done.
I dont think they will be having them for a while or ever again? ? but there's better options now. I got several Gloria panels for $27 and they aren't cracked.
BOTTOM LINE
There's choices, just like different opinions and attitudes, and personalities.
 
It's not that serious. The panels aren't cracked except under the traces
I was just answering a question
Maybe I misunderstood

The Henry stuff is just quick and I know it works well on roofs. For the square footage it’s cheap, and quick.

Personally I don’t/won’t buy cracked panels either.
 
I was just answering a question
Maybe I misunderstood

The Henry stuff is just quick and I know it works well on roofs. For the square footage it’s cheap, and quick.

Personally I don’t/won’t buy cracked panels either.
Would be alot of work doing 20 plus panels. Personally I'm unsure how they are able to sell these panels. Technically they are warranty defects. I believe that someone was actually paid to dispose of them. Technically they aren't supposed to be sold or used. Which is why their original trina labels have been removed and they even covered the trina markings on the outside with the barcode. They do work quite well but I probably wouldn't buy them again. Mostly because I want more output per panel. The ones they have now are pretty nasty. "Green bus bars" water intrusion, I think the same ones that came black or silver frame 250w not the 240w trinas. Those for sure I wouldn't mess with, or snail trail panels either. With the cost of panels these days I wouldn't think the savings are worth it buying damaged panels.
 
Thank You for all the advice, I am mounting these on a RV roof so there exposure to the elements will be very minimal, plus living in the desert southwest water and moisture are not going to be a problem. I am thinking of not messing them at all, and install them as is. I was able to get 4-panels for $135 total, giving me 960 watts, if I get 80% of their rated capacity 760 watts I will be very happy with that, and 700 watts of PV is not bad for $135. This is my first system so I am learning as I go.
 
Thank You for all the advice, I am mounting these on a RV roof so there exposure to the elements will be very minimal, plus living in the desert southwest water and moisture are not going to be a problem. I am thinking of not messing them at all, and install them as is. I was able to get 4-panels for $135 total, giving me 960 watts, if I get 80% of their rated capacity 760 watts I will be very happy with that, and 700 watts of PV is not bad for $135. This is my first system so I am learning as I go.
I have seen 180-220w from mine. Under the right conditions they will do damn near full power but I think 200w per panel is normal
 
The crack vinyl which is actual Tedlar equivalent ( China Knock off ) has no function except to keep debris from impacting the EVA encapsulation.

The Santan panels are from large solar plants that have defective backing, which they had replaced and sold off as scrap, but they are fully functional in most cases.

The backing is mainly for installations where the panels are on ground mounts and the back is open to wind to protect the EVA layer. Even with cracks in the backing, more than 99% of the EVA is protected, and even without it, you would need to be in areas where sand could be blown on the back of the panels, over many years to have any performance degradation, the EVA is pretty tough layer all on its own.

I bought 12 panels 2+ years ago from Santan off eBay and ran them for 6 months, they performed as expected to name plate, at the time the $$ / Watt was ridiculously low. I actual am the one that suggested to Santan the use Henry's coating, as the dielectric properties almost identical to the factory coating.

I sold them locally to an off-grider at cost and replaced with the 395W half cut mono panels, also from Santan that are the best performing panels I have had in over 20 years.

For most DYI it is an ideal, low cost panel IMHO, but understand if you want pristine panels with warranty's ( with triple the cost ) look else where.

11-21-2022 4-12-05 PM.png
 
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The crack vinyl which is actual Tedlar equivalent ( China Knock off ) has no function except to keep debris from impacting the EVA encapsulation.

The Santan panels are from large solar plants that have defective backing, which they had replaced and sold off as scrap, but they are fully functional in most cases.

The backing is mainly for installations where the panels are on ground mounts and the back is open to wind to protect the EVA layer. Even with cracks in the backing, more than 99% of the EVA is protected, and even without it, you would need to be in areas where sand could be blown on the back of the panels, over many years to have any performance degradation, the EVA is pretty tough layer all on its own.

I bought 12 panels 2+ years ago from Santan off eBay and ran them for 6 months, they performed as expected to name plate, at the time the $$ / Watt was ridiculously low. I actual am the one that suggested to Santan the use Henry's coating, as the dielectric properties almost identical to the factory coating.

I sold them locally to an off-grider at cost and replaced with the 395W half cut mono panels, also from Santan that are the best performing panels I have had in over 20 years.

For most DYI it is an ideal, low cost panel IMHO, but understand if you want pristine panels with warranty's ( with triple the cost ) look else where.

View attachment 121280
Yeah they work pretty damn good for the $ as good as new panels in most cases.
I have 18 of the 240w ones. But there are some nasty 250w ones that do say they have moisture intrusion. And they look pretty bad. There's actual corrosion on those. The 240w trinas are out of stock a while now. The options now are moisture intrusion panels and Snail trails. Or yellowish panels. I bought 8 Gloria yellowish panels for $27 a peice. 225w rated individually per panel. Some say 229 some 225w all different. They do about 150w on average but he'll you can get 4 of those for the cost of a $100 100w panel lol ?.
Many places are so bad that you can't use these panels because of permit inspections. Having labels could be helpful. I cannot mount my panels on my house for this reason. Infact with all the headaches they make here diy solar isn't possible really anymore
 
Having labels could be helpful
one can order custom labels a dozen at a tie online. ahem. >cough<
Not saying that’s a good idea but really? If they were UL new and all you need is a spec label I might weigh that option as long as it doesn’t vary from the oem label
YOUR DICHOTOMY MAY NOT TOLERATE THIS APPROACH AND YOUR SKILLS MAY BE INSUFFICIENT TO MAKE THAT JUDGMENT- AND I DONT KNOW THE LEGALITY OF DOING THAT. I’M NOT suggesting fraudulent actions just suggesting giving inspectors the data they want.
iow it’s on you if you try
 
one can order custom labels a dozen at a tie online. ahem. >cough<
Not saying that’s a good idea but really? If they were UL new and all you need is a spec label I might weigh that option as long as it doesn’t vary from the oem label
YOUR DICHOTOMY MAY NOT TOLERATE THIS APPROACH AND YOUR SKILLS MAY BE INSUFFICIENT TO MAKE THAT JUDGMENT- AND I DONT KNOW THE LEGALITY OF DOING THAT. I’M NOT suggesting fraudulent actions just suggesting giving inspectors the data they want.
iow it’s on you if you try
It wouldn't pass here. Approved diy install days are done here. Off grid install requirements are as strict as grid tie ones . They make it so difficult that it's best to go pro and over pay. Arizona is great if you live in the right county ?
 
It wouldn't pass here. Approved diy install days are done here. Off grid install requirements are as strict as grid tie ones . They make it so difficult that it's best to go pro and over pay. Arizona is great if you live in the right county ?
Huh. That’s weird. A sunny state and they make solar difficult?!

I have a friend out there- must be the right county. DIY 5kW array and off grid. But no rebates on off grid, either. Stupid.
YOU WIL BE ASSIMILATED
 
Huh. That’s weird. A sunny state and they make solar difficult?!

I have a friend out there- must be the right county. DIY 5kW array and off grid. But no rebates on off grid, either. Stupid.
YOU WIL BE ASSIMILATED
Yavapai County is no go,no permit, and it's the largest country by land mass. Of course if you live where they can't see or enforce it your fine till your not. I think the main issue is people mounting panels on their roof and rapid shutdown stuff and fire code etc. I've not heard of problems with anything else.
 
I have 10 275 watt panels from Santan that have cracked backstreets. Once you are spraying flex seal, you may as well just have bought new panels. The flex seal also peals right off...I tried it. Don't do it.

I used pure silicone caulk and hand caulked all the cracks.

1 year in service in our wet climate and now 1 year of service in the Salt spray without issue.

That Henry's should work very good but again, it's a bit spendy.

I paid 27.00 for each panel. With shipping and tax the load came to like $550.00.

You can get used panels without cracks for 50-60 each so consider that before purchasing sealer.
 
It’s like $40/gallon- not very spendy

You have to lay the panel flat and dump the silicone based Henry's stuff in there so you have a good membrane otherwise the cracks will just open right back up.

Dicor is also a good choice but if there are a lot of cracks your hands will go arthritic applying it.
 
You have to lay the panel flat and dump the silicone based Henry's stuff in there so you have a good membrane otherwise the cracks will just open right back up.
I don’t know what Henry’s stuff you are referring to.

The stuff I use is bright white, acrylic, covers several hundred square feet, NOT silicone, you roll it on like paint, and it creates a flexible sealed surface.
image.jpg
I have used it on a bunch of campers and utility trailers and feel very confident in the product. I’ve never heard of a silicone membrane product from them.

The bright white product is what I used 4/5 years ago on my own camper roof including using the tyvek-like 3” fiber repair ‘tape’ that you saturate to create a waterproof curb. I meant to recoat this year and last but never have and it still is waterproof on a flat camper roof.

In my experience (other than some RV tapes) I have determined that I will never use “silicone” anything on something I wanted a) to be waterproof and b) to last any length of time other than glass against fiberglass or maybe a bathtub surround.
 
I don’t know what Henry’s stuff you are referring to.

The stuff I use is bright white, acrylic, covers several hundred square feet, NOT silicone, you roll it on like paint, and it creates a flexible sealed surface.
View attachment 121456
I have used it on a bunch of campers and utility trailers and feel very confident in the product. I’ve never heard of a silicone membrane product from them.

The bright white product is what I used 4/5 years ago on my own camper roof including using the tyvek-like 3” fiber repair ‘tape’ that you saturate to create a waterproof curb. I meant to recoat this year and last but never have and it still is waterproof on a flat camper roof.

In my experience (other than some RV tapes) I have determined that I will never use “silicone” anything on something I wanted a) to be waterproof and b) to last any length of time other than glass against fiberglass or maybe a bathtub surround.
This stuff.

 
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