Living with the DuroMAX XP9000iH

[Symbioquine]

I got a call from the repair shop about the XP9000iH with an update.

The owner said he got it running again. BUT every time he switches it to propane the fuse behind the panel blows. This was the same issue I had with the first one. He said he looked at the fuel solenoid but thinks its for gas and not propane. I didn't question him more about that since at this point it's a moot point. DuroMax has previously said they will refund me if it is unrepairable this time. He was sending everything over to them for processing. I'm hoping I get no resistance to refunding me what we paid, $2,826 in Nov. 2021.

That's the exact symptoms you'll get when the propane fuel solenoid is blown. My guess is either your repair shop doesn't know the generator model very well or doesn't expect you to recognize an inaccurate answer... It's also fairly likely the the only work that's been required so far was replacing the fuse behind the panel so I hope you don't have to pay them very much for that.

I'd be willing to bet that if you replace the fuel solenoid (either with a new one or with a motorized ball valve as I described above) the generator will function again on propane. (You might need to replace the fuse again depending what state the repair guy left it in.)

Obviously, no judgement whatever you decide to do, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you can keep it out of a landfill! If you do decide to do the repair and have any questions, please feel free to ask here...

 

[butters3686]

Ok so I posted on facebook about a similar issue I've been having with my generator and my friend found this thread for me. I own a duromax xp 4500iH. I mainly use it on propane as that's what I prefer to use while I'm camping. I'm on my second unit with the same problem. The first unit burned out the front panel right away last year while camping and I was sent another to replace it. Well after a little more use this year the same thing happened to the second one. Front panel won't turn on and one of the fuses behind the main panel is blown. Not happy about the situation I decided to wrap some foil on the fuse and see if I could keep it running as I wasn't entirely sure why it keeps blowing the fuse. Well it started and ran for about 10 seconds before it started smoking. I called duromax and they are actually sending me a full refund. I'm looking to find a good brand that will actually run on propane without this issue, so if anyone can suggest a decent duel fuel inverter generator around 4500watts that would be great. Also the my real reason for posting is I'm wondering if anything can be done to possibly get these (now two) generators I have running again. Like I said the first one has been blowing fuses like stated and the second one now that I tried to hotwire smoked smothing else and I'm not sure what to do about either one of these? Can I salvage them at all? Thanks in advance. @Symbioquine

 

[Symbioquine]

Ok so I posted on facebook about a similar issue I've been having with my generator and my friend found this thread for me. I own a duromax xp 4500iH. I mainly use it on propane as that's what I prefer to use while I'm camping. I'm on my second unit with the same problem. The first unit burned out the front panel right away last year while camping and I was sent another to replace it. Well after a little more use this year the same thing happened to the second one. Front panel won't turn on and one of the fuses behind the main panel is blown. Not happy about the situation I decided to wrap some foil on the fuse and see if I could keep it running as I wasn't entirely sure why it keeps blowing the fuse. Well it started and ran for about 10 seconds before it started smoking. I called duromax and they are actually sending me a full refund. I'm looking to find a good brand that will actually run on propane without this issue, so if anyone can suggest a decent duel fuel inverter generator around 4500watts that would be great. Also the my real reason for posting is I'm wondering if anything can be done to possibly get these (now two) generators I have running again. Like I said the first one has been blowing fuses like stated and the second one now that I tried to hotwire smoked smothing else and I'm not sure what to do about either one of these? Can I salvage them at all? Thanks in advance.

I don't know if you killed the one by trying to bypass the fuse, but other than that, these DuroMAX dual fuel generators with the failed solenoid will run on gasoline if you replace the fuse and keep the fuel selection switch on the gas setting.

If you want it to run on propane again, you should replace the fuel solenoid valve with either a similar solenoid valve or with a (normally closed) motorized ball valve like I described above. (It might also work if you bypass the fuel solenoid by connecting the two pipes that run through that, but I suspect it wouldn't be safe that way.)

 

[butters3686]

I don't know if you killed the one by trying to bypass the fuse, but other than that, these DuroMAX dual fuel generators with the failed solenoid will run on gasoline if you replace the fuse and keep the fuel selection switch on the gas setting.

If you want it to run on propane again, you should replace the fuel solenoid valve with either a similar solenoid valve or with a (normally closed) motorized ball valve like I described above. (It might also work if you bypass the fuel solenoid by connecting the two pipes that run through that, but I suspect it wouldn't be safe that way.)

Ok thanks for the reply. Would you happen to have any recommendations on a specific solenoid valve i could use to replace it with? I'm not really that familiar with the parts for these. Do you think the one that I tried to bypass i could have just fried the solenoid itself since that's what's causing these issues in the first place? Also, do you have any recommendations on a good working duel fuel inverter as a replacement?

Found the short in the one I hot wired here's so pics of it. Now i just need to find this part..lol

 

[Symbioquine]

Would you happen to have any recommendations on a specific solenoid valve i could use to replace it with?

Either of these;

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Q4QYI/ (If you want to stick with a solenoid valve - which is not rated for continuous duty and will probably fail again as I described in the OP.)
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LWXMW/ (If you want to convert to a motorized ball valve - which is rated for continuous duty.)

Also get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082YSCGC2 so you don't have to try and get the old fittings off. (It's really hard.)

Do you think the one that I tried to bypass i could have just fried the solenoid itself since that's what's causing these issues in the first place?

If it failed the way I think it did, then the fuel solenoid was already fried. When that happens the fuel solenoid acts like a short circuit and pulls too much current. Normally, the generator is "protected" from that by the fuse behind the panel blowing. If you bypass that fuse without fixing the root cause (the solenoid) and without at least switching to gasoline (which doesn't use the propane fuel solenoid), then something else in the system is likely to fail due to the unexpected amount of current flowing through that path.

The best case scenario is that the pin that melted off in your pictures acted like a secondary fuse. In that case you might be able to simply re-attach the pin and fix the other problems (solenoid and fuse) to have a working generator again.

Re-attaching the pin would involve somehow getting the circuit board out of that shell (without damaging it further) and re-soldering the pin back into the board. Depending on how stuck on the potting material (that black stuff is) it might or might not be feasible.

What I'd recommend doing is; fix the other one and keep the one that you tried to hot-wire for parts.

 

[SacRV]

Ok so I posted on facebook about a similar issue I've been having with my generator and my friend found this thread for me. I own a duromax xp 4500iH. I mainly use it on propane as that's what I prefer to use while I'm camping. I'm on my second unit with the same problem. The first unit burned out the front panel right away last year while camping and I was sent another to replace it. Well after a little more use this year the same thing happened to the second one. Front panel won't turn on and one of the fuses behind the main panel is blown. Not happy about the situation I decided to wrap some foil on the fuse and see if I could keep it running as I wasn't entirely sure why it keeps blowing the fuse. Well it started and ran for about 10 seconds before it started smoking. I called duromax and they are actually sending me a full refund. I'm looking to find a good brand that will actually run on propane without this issue, so if anyone can suggest a decent duel fuel inverter generator around 4500watts that would be great. Also the my real reason for posting is I'm wondering if anything can be done to possibly get these (now two) generators I have running again. Like I said the first one has been blowing fuses like stated and the second one now that I tried to hotwire smoked smothing else and I'm not sure what to do about either one of these? Can I salvage them at all? Thanks in advance. @Symbioquine

That's interesting, I have the same generator as a backup to our HP9000iX. It's only had minimal use on propane with no problems. I think in moving forward I will use it primarily on gas if necessary.

As far as other brands, look into the Westinghouse or perhaps the Genmax, which I just got. Regardless what you get I'd strongly consider an extended warranty.

Our of curiosity, does anyone know what amp these fuses are? Let's say they're 10 amp, do you think going up to a 12.5 amp would be too risky?

 

[Hedges]

On the DuroMAX XP9000iH, it is located just inside the housing on the left hand side of the little panel that comes off for doing oil changes. It probably has a brass base with a black hose going in/out of it near the bottom and a cylindrical part above that with two wires coming off it. The one from the DuroMAX XP9000iH looks like this;

View attachment 144379

Obviously, it could be different on the Genmax which is why I asked

That solenoid has a label for "DC12V" and "50/60Hz"??

Operated on AC, solenoids probably draw higher current for pull-in, then reduce current to hold due to how magnetic core affects AC impedance.
Operated on DC, current is limited only by resistance, not by inductance.

There are various designs of "economizer" which reduce current for hold. Simplest solution could be to select a thermistor of suitable size. It will be low resistance at first and allow full current to flow, then heat up (quite hot) and increase in resistance. You need to mount it where it won't burn plastic/insulation. After power is removed, it will take time to cool before it resets and can operate again.

If you hooked up an AC transformer to produce 12Vrms AC, you could add a relay. For starting, 12VDC battery operates the solenoid. When AC appears, it pulls SPDT relay to switch coil's supply from 12VDC to 12VAC. I suggest adding an RC snubber across the contacts that switch DC. Although the contacts may not be a big issue generator normally shuts off due to "run/stop" signal. If it shuts off due to running out of fuel, then relay will close onto hot 12V source, bounce, and could weld.

 

[Symbioquine]

That solenoid has a label for "DC12V" and "50/60Hz"??

Yeah, I wondered about that too @Hedges... My best guess was either poor labeling or some sort of reference to the maximum switching response time. Since it is 50/60Hz, it certainly suggests the former though.

 

[butters3686]

Does anyone know where I might be able to find this part for my duromax?

 

[Symbioquine]

Does anyone know where I might be able to find this part for my duromax?

As far as I know, you pretty much just have to call DuroMAX and ask. I haven't found a good third-party source of exact part matches - except common things like spark plugs.

Please let us know how it goes...

 

[butters3686]

As far as I know, you pretty much just have to call DuroMAX and ask. I haven't found a good third-party source of exact part matches - except common things like spark plugs.

Please let us know how it goes...

So, actually I decided to take a chance on it and resolder that pin that got burned up back into the board and believe it or not I put some gas in it and it fired up (after replacing the blown out fuse again as well)! So I have two (free) working generators now lol. They are both only running on gas but hey I'll take it. I'm probably going to try and list them for $600/piece as gas only generators now but I'm hoping to be able to get another duel fuel generator.

 

[Symbioquine]

I decided to take a chance on it and resolder that pin that got burned up back into the board and believe it or not I put some gas in it and it fired up

Nice! Sounds tricky... Were you able to get access to the back of the board? How hard was it to get the potting material off (black coating) off? Pictures of the process?

I'm probably going to try and list them for $600/piece as gas only generators now

You're probably already thinking of these things, but if you plan to sell them, I'd recommend;

• Disconnect the wire going to the solenoid valve so that it just won't start (it will turn over, but not catch) if someone tries to run it on propane instead of blowing that fuse again.
• Add a label to the front that indicates the generator cannot run on propane.
• Explain how/why it is broken and point them to this thread - especially for the one which you had to solder the pin back into since that repair might fail down the road or there could be other things that are fragile due to the attempted fuse bypass.

 

[SacRV]

A quick update.

I got a call from the repair shop on Friday saying DuroMax is releasing the control boards that have been held up in customs for the last several months. I was disappointed to hear DuroMax wants to try and repair it again even though it's failed to be repaired twice now.

I contacted my DuroMax contact and he too was surprised to hear DuroMax is actually going to try and replace the panel..again. They seem to be so focused on the panel yet it sounds like the fuel solenoid as the culprit.

Regardless, if it pass testing after the panel replacement and I get it back I plan on selling it. The new Genmax seems to be running well and with the internal engine fan I think it will perform better in the summer.

 

[Symbioquine]

They seem to be so focused on the panel yet it sounds like the fuel solenoid as the culprit.

It's actually possible that replacing/upgrading the panel could help. Depending on how it is connected to the solenoid, they could potentially update the design to reduce solenoid failures.

If the solenoid activation comes directly enough from the panel, they could take advantage of the principle that @Hedges was discussing above;

Operated on DC, current is limited only by resistance, not by inductance.

There are various designs of "economizer" which reduce current for hold.

The new panel would need to be designed to first apply a higher starting voltage to activate the solenoid, then reduce the voltage for the duration of the generator run cycle.

Obviously, any such repair/upgrade would also still need to replace the front panel fuse and solenoid if those are already blown.

Additionally, it might be wise to add a dedicated inline fuse for the solenoid (so the front panel and gasoline operation are not impacted by solenoid failure) and maybe a auto-resetting thermal cut out mounted directly on the solenoid (to interrupt generator operation if the solenoid starts to get into a temperature range where it is likely to fail).

 

[SacRV]

A few weeks went by and no word from the repair shop so I called and was only able to leave a message requesting an update. The following day I get a call from a freight company to schedule the delivery of a new generator. I immediately contacted DuroMax and reminded them of their policy, to refund if a generator is unrepairable after 2 attempts. They were able to recall the generator delivery and agreed to process a refund, which is also taking some time.

Presumably the new control panel they sent the repair shop didn't fix the generator.

I think the issue is we paid $2,826 and now it sells for $1,999 on Amazon. DuroMax would have preferred to just send me another one and certainly don't want to refund me more then what they're selling for now. But hopefully they will honor their decision and I'll get my refund soon.

I will say the new Genmax has been running great, although we have yet to get into the heat of summer where these things tend to fail. So we'll see...

 

[Symbioquine]

A few weeks went by and no word from the repair shop so I called and was only able to leave a message requesting an update. The following day I get a call from a freight company to schedule the delivery of a new generator. I immediately contacted DuroMax and reminded them of their policy, to refund if a generator is unrepairable after 2 attempts. They were able to recall the generator delivery and agreed to process a refund, which is also taking some time.

Presumably the new control panel they sent the repair shop didn't fix the generator.

I think the issue is we paid $2,826 and now it sells for $1,999 on Amazon. DuroMax would have preferred to just send me another one and certainly don't want to refund me more then what they're selling for now. But hopefully they will honor their decision and I'll get my refund soon.

I will say the new Genmax has been running great, although we have yet to get into the heat of summer where these things tend to fail. So we'll see...

Thanks for the update! I hope your refund goes through without a hitch!

It's a big bummer that all these "failed units" probably just end up in landfills... I wouldn't mind having a few of the carcasses around for spare parts, but they're just bulky enough that shipping them around is likely problematic.

 

[Symbioquine]

I finally got around to experimenting with the ATS plug on my DuroMAX XP9000iH units...

The "Power Equipment Forum" posts I previously found here only seem to be partially accurate.

• The plug on my units is in fact a GX20-8 aviation plug which can found bought on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BMYZK9R/
• The pinout diagram is not accurate for my units (see below)
• The starting procedure is different for my units (see below)

Here's what I've determined for about the plug on my units:



If the start switch (The red rocker switch labeled "START UP") is on, then connecting pins 2 and 3 for two seconds will tell the generator to start itself. Once it has started, connecting those two pins again will tell the generator to turn itself off. This is the same as pressing the big round start/stop button by hand.

 

[Symbioquine]

Reserving this post for possible follow-ups (if needed) about ATS plug or automating starting/stopping...

 

[Skypower]

Reserving this post for possible follow-ups (if needed) about ATS plug or automating starting/stopping...

Have you found any shop manuals or wiring diagrams. Probably the most ambiguous company I’ve ever seen.

 

[Symbioquine]

Have you found any shop manuals or wiring diagrams. Probably the most ambiguous company I’ve ever seen.

I'd love a shop manual for it, but sadly no. That's part of why I started this thread in the hopes that folks who have them (and similar generators) can build up some community knowledge around how to hack on them and keep them running.

As for wiring diagrams, the nice folks at Atkinson Electronics were able to provide the following; (I'm not sure if I am supposed to be sharing them further, but it seems like critical information that DuroMAX should already be providing in their manual.)