Pick up something like
https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html and measure your exact freezer, they are going to vary all over the map depending on age, size, defrost status (self/auto or manual and if manual how long it’s been since defrost), ambient temperature and thermostat setting, etc.
FWIW: I have a manual-defrost upright freezer in a humid environment, and my temperature sensor showed it was originally cycling normally. After a while it was taking longer and longer to cool off and cycle off, to the point where it spent most of it's time running while barely keeping the freezer at temperature (-30C).
So I unloaded it, defrosted it, let it sit for a couple of days while I tried to determine if there were interventions I could perform. Our HVAC guy wanted to add a couple of 'piercing valves' to the sealed freon system and check pressures and maybe add some more, but I didn't want that kind of intervention, as then it's no longer sealed...
Anyway, plugged it back in and it's fine again. My guess is that the frost built up inside the door and around the insulation, and created an 'ice short circuit' around the insulation, which effectively reduced the insulation effectiveness and caused the compressor to work overtime.
So regular (yearly?) defrosting may well be a part of keeping the energy efficiency up.
In addition, chest freezers are going to be a lot more efficient, as the door seals are at the top. And newer freezers are going to be a lot more efficient, so think about how you might put all the long-term-storage frozen stuff in a chest freezer while you are not in residence, to reduce your solar power system requirements significantly.