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Question about installation with Sol-Ark

fmemon

New Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2024
Messages
7
Location
Michigan
Hi,

I'm new to this forum, but have been watching Will's videos online for quite a few years.

I have finally saved up enough to enter the market for residential solar and I had a few questions. I am looking at getting approximately 11kW of solar installed on the roof with a Sol-Ark 15k inverter. For reference, I live in east Michigan, so if you have any code specific recommendations that I should be aware of, please let me know.

The questions I have are as follows:
  1. I understand the 15k has a 200A pass through in it. Does that mean the 15k can be installed in between the meter and the main panel? This would effectively back up the entire main panel, is that correct?
    • For my install, I would like to not back up the two A/C units in our home. How difficult is it to install a non-back up panel to house those two loads?
  2. I am currently looking at getting the system installed without batteries, since the installer's batteries are very expensive. Can I simply connect any compatible battery (ex: EG4 indoor wall mount battery) later on to get back up power capability or will I need to add additional components on the wall to remain code compliant (ex: disconnects, etc.)?
    • Based on what I can see, I should be able to simply connect the EG4 batteries to the correct terminals, and the Sol-Ark will handle the rest (EG4 and Sol-Ark both have DC breakers on them for safety)
On a secondary note, what kind of questions should I ask my solar installer before signing the project?

The companies I am quoting right now are Strawberry Solar (connected through EnergySage), Michigan Solar Solutions (found myself), and Solar On. All companies are located in east Michigan. Any experience with any of these companies?
 
I understand the 15k has a 200A pass through in it. Does that mean the 15k can be installed in between the meter and the main panel? This would effectively back up the entire main panel, is that correct?
Yes preferably with a disconnect in between.

I am currently looking at getting the system installed without batteries, since the installer's batteries are very expensive. Can I simply connect any compatible battery (ex: EG4 indoor wall mount battery) later on to get back up power capability or will I need to add additional components on the wall to remain code compliant (ex: disconnects, etc.)?
Yes you can just hook up the 48v server rack EG4 batteries and it will work.

As far as code requirements go you would have to ask AHJ or someone who lives near you.
 
Yes preferably with a disconnect in between.
I just found out that the installer was planning on using a line side tap to feed solar into the main panel.

I think that would result in my system sending power to the grid during a power outage.
 
I understand the 15k has a 200A pass through in it. Does that mean the 15k can be installed in between the meter and the main panel? This would effectively back up the entire main panel, is that correct?

Yes. But, you may want a switch between the SA and Meter so you can take the SA out of the circuit for service. That would require a transfer switch on the Main Panel (select between Grid and SA).

  • For my install, I would like to not back up the two A/C units in our home. How difficult is it to install a non-back up panel to house those two loads?

Three options:
1) Separate grid fed panel for two A/C units
2) Separate panel for the two A/C units fed by the Smart Load / Gen Port (SA can disconnect the port when Grid Down, and not enough battery)
3) Load Controller to turn on/off the A/C when grid is down.

Options 2 and 3 give you the ability to run the A/C when grid is down.


Can I simply connect any compatible battery (ex: EG4 indoor wall mount battery) later on to get back up power capability or will I need to add additional components on the wall to remain code compliant (ex: disconnects, etc.)?
You can add battery without additional components. But, you may need a Permit.

  • Based on what I can see, I should be able to simply connect the EG4 batteries to the correct terminals, and the Sol-Ark will handle the rest (EG4 and Sol-Ark both have DC breakers on them for safety)

You may want a busbar between the Battery and SA. Makes it easier to connect to both terminals of the SA, and to add more battery later.
Class T fuse between the Battery and Busbar.

On a secondary note, what kind of questions should I ask my solar installer before signing the project?

Look at other installs of the company. Make sure they have a Clean look on the roof (no ugly conduit, no random pattern with the panels, etc.). How many of what panels (confirm power ratings - how many kWh you are paying for).
Proposed string configuration into Sol-Ark. If more than 3 strings, which are in parallel? If parallel, combine on Roof or into the 2 connections for the MPPT. If any parallel exceeds 26a, then MPPT will clip the extra power. If separate strings into the MPPT, if a string has problems, it is easier to disconnect that string at the SA until it is fixed.
Any optimizers? If they are using TIGO RSD without Optimizers, you might want to consider upgrading to the TIGO Optimizers with RSD.

If you need more than 3 strings, and there are no obvious strings to parallel, consider Microinverters on the strings above 3.

The companies I am quoting right now are Strawberry Solar (connected through EnergySage), Michigan Solar Solutions (found myself), and Solar On. All companies are located in east Michigan. Any experience with any of these companies?
Also look at SA website to find other installers in the area.

Note:
I would want a Manual Transfer Switch between the Grid/Sol-Ark (load port) and the Main Panel, as well as a cutoff switch (or breaker) between the Grid and Grid Input of the Sol-Ark. That lets you take the Sol-Ark out of the circuit (for maintenance, or whatever), while keeping the Main Panel connected to the Grid.
 
Also look at SA website to find other installers in the area.

I would also recommend a manual transfer switch between the grid and the Sol-Ark in case you need to isolate the Sol-Ark and still have access to grid power to your main service panel.
I am currently looking at getting the system installed without batteries, since the installer's batteries are very expensive. Can I simply connect any compatible battery (ex: EG4 indoor wall mount battery) later on to get back up power capability or will I need to add additional components on the wall to remain code compliant (ex: disconnects, etc.)?
  • Based on what I can see, I should be able to simply connect the EG4 batteries to the correct terminals, and the Sol-Ark will handle the rest (EG4 and Sol-Ark both have DC breakers on them for safety)

You can connect any 48V battery to the Sol-Ark battery terminals, just be sure to program the battery settings correctly. If you choose to do CLC comms be sure it is a battery we have a verified partnership with. EG4 may be able to communicate with us, but we are not partners and the communication protocol has only been tested and can only be supported by EG4 alone.

If you have enough batteries and can produce more than 200DC amps ( the Sol-ark 15K can accept a maximum of 275DC A), you will need a DC bus bar so that your batteries connect to the Sol-Ark using both of the 15K battery terminals.

Also, you can pass a full 200A through the 15K inverter. The Sol-Ark will only be able to offset/ back up 50A from just battery or 60A with a combination of solar and battery, but while you are on the grid if you pull a higher load than the inverter can offset we will let the utility cover your load up to 200A.
 
If you have enough batteries and can produce more than 200DC amps ( the Sol-ark 15K can accept a maximum of 275DC A), you will need a DC bus bar so that your batteries connect to the Sol-Ark using both of the 15K battery terminals.
Any particular busbars that you would recommend?
 
I cant officially recommend anything. I have seen plenty people use Midnight Solar Battery Bus bars. You could also use something similar to this :

 
If you have enough batteries and can produce more than 200DC amps ( the Sol-ark 15K can accept a maximum of 275DC A), you will need a DC bus bar so that your batteries connect to the Sol-Ark using both of the 15K battery terminals.
Actually, if your batteries support more than 160A you need to do this. That DC breaker is 200A and with derating to 80%, that limits you to 160A.

Ask me how I know... :fp2

Suffice it to say that charging at more than 160A results in the DC breakers tripping and causing power outages!
 
Actually, if your batteries support more than 160A you need to do this. That DC breaker is 200A and with derating to 80%, that limits you to 160A.

Ask me how I know... :fp2

Suffice it to say that charging at more than 160A results in the DC breakers tripping and causing power outages!
Good catch, this is correct. To avoid nuisance tripping please follow the 80% derating rule. My apologies for missing that in my post.
 
Thanks for all the information everyone. I'll be looking more into this based on the feedback given
 
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