diy solar

diy solar

Renogy charge controllers?

Bob142

Build more, learn more.
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,361
Location
Rhode Island, USA
I'd like to hear from people who own Renogy charge controllers and how they are working for you in the real world. What do you like, what don't you like? Would you buy one again?

@Aitch has an MPPT in The Minion.
@ytwytw mentioned having an MPPT.
@Augustman has an MPPT.
@Will Prowse just positively reviewed the Regnogy DC-DC Charger w/MPPT and @Santa and others were/are going to build with it.
@Russ I think has a PWM.
@BobG has a Rover (positive ground version, I think).
@Teleman has a Rover (and I think maybe likes Fenders).

I suspect there are others as well.

Thanks for your input!

(Thanks to @Steve_S for suggesting this sub-forum.)
 
I used their 30amp PWM basic CC for a few years trouble free on 1-100w renogy panel and 2 6v golf cart batteries in my toy hauler on our many dunes adventures. Still have it in a drawer somewhere.
Moved up to MPPT after that. But not a renogy.
 
Last edited:
I'd like to hear from people who own Renogy charge controllers and how they are working for you in the real world. What do you like, what don't you like? Would you buy one again?

@Aitch has an MPPT in The Minion.
@ytwytw mentioned having an MPPT.
@Augustman has an MPPT.
@Will Prowse just positively reviewed the Regnogy DC-DC Charger w/MPPT and @Santa and others were/are going to build with it.
@Russ I think has a PWM.
@BobG has a Rover (positive ground version, I think).
@Teleman has a Rover (and I think maybe likes Fenders).

I suspect there are others as well.

Thanks for your input!

(Thanks to @Steve_S for suggesting this sub-forum.)
I am re-thinking what to get. I may break it up and get separate components. If one breaks, then the whole thing doesn't break or need to get fixed or replaced...I'm working on learning everything I can right now. If I get one, I will let you know. (They are on backorder until Dec. some time in case I didn't say it on this thread.)Thanks
 
Ah. That explains why you changed your title. Thanks.
Yeah, I see JeepHammer posted some "Reading Basic Diagrams" here for the solar challenged like me. I am going to study for a while. I really want to understand what I am doing every step of the way (even though I want my system built yesterday!) Thanks Bob.
 
Hi Bob, the minion’s Renogy Li 20amp mppt charge controller works fine, it charges faster from the same Renogy 100w suitcase panel than the pwm cc in my yeti 1400 lithium (98wph v 68wph) as I said before you need the external Bluetooth module to be able to set user parameters for your lithium batteries (cc is set for Renogy lithium batteries only), I also use a coulomb meter so have no real need to look at the cc, the cable entry was a little fiddly but I only intend connecting it up once (it takes up to 6mm2 cable which is more than enough for a 20 amp cc, I use 4mm2) it has lights that tell you what’s going on but I use my iPad to see this info, it doesn’t get warm even though it is contained in a box, Renogy have always been really helpful and quick to respond to all my annoying little questions, no idea how it will perform in the long run or the quality of internal components, so to sum up it does the job, it’s not expensive nor too cheap, I can’t see any down sides.9CC0FB42-FB2E-447F-9E76-DC8DA21FE17D.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The rovers bluetooth is cool butblacking data points. Itd be nice if it graphed peak production throughout the day for example. Wants you to enter admin password for every change in settings which is annoying. And the body of the rover is quite a bit bigger than epever/clones so if youre space limited like me its a concern. Id get a victron if possible or at least the epever triron if you have lifepo4 for the low temp disconnect.
 
I have Rover 40A PG and used with my 230w x 6 panel + 8 of GC2 battery + BT module

It works and the load port (20A limited) can be remotely controlled as well.

however, it does not work well with solar system less than 80w of solar panel, PWN controller is better.

I am using it in subzero temp and it is going strong.
 
I have Rover 40A PG and used with my 230w x 6 panel + 8 of GC2 battery + BT module

however, it does not work well with solar system less than 80w of solar panel, PWN controller is better.

What are the problems with using a Rover with less than 80w of solar panel?
 
What are the problems with using a Rover with less than 80w of solar panel?

it is not able to track the maximum power and it doesn’t initiate the charge when only 20W of input available
 
I'm building a portable power box with 40 Headways (80Ah with 20C/25C max pull!) and looking to put in a charge controller and battery monitor that's Bluetooth enabled (less cutting in the case) however, I just read a bad (warning) review about the Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor. Seems they have a parasitic draw (no surprise if BT is always on) that is *not* tracked and wont be reflected in the usage, giving a false state of charge (over time if idle). So, It could possibly quietly kill (~1 Ah a week) a battery if left in the dark (RV parked in storage). This could be dangerous to an expensive battery bank if not hooked up correctly with a BMS.

Parasitic draw is understandable and Victron needs to build-in an option to allow for this calculation to avoid a false state of charge.

Parasitic draw is easily forgotten and needs to be addressed... So, I'd like to see Will include "parasitic draw" in his reviews...
 

Attachments

  • brett stone.JPG
    brett stone.JPG
    186.1 KB · Views: 32
Last edited:
Hi Bob, the minion’s Renogy Li 20amp mppt charge controller works fine, it charges faster from the same Renogy 100w suitcase panel than the pwm cc in my yeti 1400 lithium (98wph v 68wph) as I said before you need the external Bluetooth module to be able to set user parameters for your lithium batteries (cc is set for Renogy lithium batteries only), I also use a coulomb meter so have no real need to look at the cc, the cable entry was a little fiddly but I only intend connecting it up once (it takes up to 6mm2 cable which is more than enough for a 20 amp cc, I use 4mm2) it has lights that tell you what’s going on but I use my iPad to see this info, it doesn’t get warm even though it is contained in a box, Renogy have always been really helpful and quick to respond to all my annoying little questions, no idea how it will perform in the long run or the quality of internal components, so to sum up it does the job, it’s not expensive nor too cheap, I can’t see any down sides.View attachment 2475
i just ordered this same controller. what do you mean by will only cc renogy lithium batteries? will this not work with other lithium batteries? thanks for any info.
 
i just ordered this same controller. what do you mean by will only cc renogy lithium batteries? will this not work with other lithium batteries? thanks for any info.

The parameters on the charge controller are set parameters for the Renogy Lithium battery, you can’t change them to suit your brand of lithium battery unless you have the Bluetooth module (optional extra) then you can select USER mode and change all the parameters to best suit your battery, I did this and the app was very straightforward.

PDF of the app

 
i just ordered this same controller. what do you mean by will only cc renogy lithium batteries? will this not work with other lithium batteries? thanks for any info.
I looked into this and I believe what Aitch is saying is that the Rover settings for LFP batteries uses a boost voltage of 14.4V and that isn't user-modifiable (@Aitch, please confirm). According the manuals, the Renogy LFP batteries call for charging at 14.4V. So they seem intentionally matched. That doesn't mean it won't work with other LFP batteries out of the box. You have to look at what the charging voltage requirements for the battery are. For example, the Battle Born manual states "For your Bulk/Absorption stage, the ideal voltage is between 14.2v-14.6v". So I think the controller would certainly charge the BB out of the box on the Lithium setting. The same is likely true for the Lion Energy Safari UT 1300/1200 which specify a max charging voltage of 14.6, but I've charged them using an AGM charger with a boost voltage setting of 14.4V and they behave well.
 
Last edited:
I guess I was typing my reply at the same time...
An email sent to me by Renogy...

You can modify the boost, float, and Equalization voltage. However, the other parameters must be modified using the Bt-1 module. The Rover charge controller does have a preset Li setting, unfortunately, this setting is optimized for our Li batt and will not be compatible with all Li batteries in the market.
 
My Rover failed and drained my batteries back through the solar panels one night. Woke up to massively depleted batteries. My wanderer, ironically, has been great, but neither ever had a properly working temperature sensor, so they fell back on their default setting of 25c and never did any compensation.
 
My Rover failed and drained my batteries back through the solar panels one night. Woke up to massively depleted batteries. My wanderer, ironically, has been great, but neither ever had a properly working temperature sensor, so they fell back on their default setting of 25c and never did any compensation.
Thanks for sharing that NM Will. That explains why you've gone Epever.

For the Rover fail, did Renogy do anything for you or just leave you hanging with broken hardware?
 
Back
Top