Running wires down the side of a trailer, neatly.

[thebeavesknees]

Hi, all!

I live in a 27' travel trailer. For various reasons, which I can expand on if people don't take my word for it, I want to run my solar wires down the side of my trailer. For the sake of durability, I figure that the wires themselves should be in stone kind of conduit or cover. I am at a loss for what would be a good kind to use. I do not want to add to the penetrations into the siding, so I would prefer something that can be secured with VHB, and while I would run whatever encasing for the wires on the back side of the trailer, I'd still like it to look better than taping a roll of liquitite to the side of the trailer.

Do you have any suggestions as to what I could use? Thanks for your time!

 

[justinm001]

sounds like raceway wire channel is what you're looking for. Use it all the time for interior wiring jobs. Not sure of any thats water tight but if I were you i'd just mount it with the sticky stuff that comes with it then use some color duct tape to seal it shut that matches the exterior. Doesn't even need to be water tight since the wires are good but better than risking wires sitting in some water for months/years

 

[justinm001]

Actually just checked my warehouse and we have a ton of panduit ones that is 1 piece molded so wouldn't even need to tape.

 

[thebeavesknees]

sounds like raceway wire channel is what you're looking for. Use it all the time for interior wiring jobs. Not sure of any thats water tight but if I were you i'd just mount it with the sticky stuff that comes with it then use some color duct tape to seal it shut that matches the exterior. Doesn't even need to be water tight since the wires are good but better than risking wires sitting in some water for months/years

The wires are obviously weather proof. I'd leave the bottom of the channel open, though, that's annoying to think about since it would be preferable to have them enclosed going around the corner under the trailer frame itself.

 

[Shimmy]

I would recommend aluminum conduit and an LB fitting for the entry. Make (or find) a secondary escutcheon for the penetration and fill that with sealant.

I don't think a plastic wire way would last more than a few weeks.

 

[thebeavesknees]

Actually just checked my warehouse and we have a ton of panduit ones that is 1 piece molded so wouldn't even need to tape.

Are there "corners" for this kind of thing?

 

[thebeavesknees]

I would recommend aluminum conduit and an LB fitting for the entry. Make (or find) a secondary escutcheon for the penetration and fill that with sealant

I've never heard of aluminum conduit! Interesting.

 

[justinm001]

Are there "corners" for this kind of thing?

Oh yeah all kinds of corners or tees or junction boxes. Panduit is expensive high quality brand so I'm sure there's cheap ones on amazon

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.panduit.com/content/dam/panduit/en/products/media/0/30/530/8530/101078530.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj_tZ-s2siBAxUJj4kEHS95CvkQFnoECBIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw06b_8WuL6pdId3Jy-GPJw2

 

[thebeavesknees]

Oh yeah all kinds of corners or tees or junction boxes. Panduit is expensive high quality brand so I'm sure there's cheap ones on amazon

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.panduit.com/content/dam/panduit/en/products/media/0/30/530/8530/101078530.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj_tZ-s2siBAxUJj4kEHS95CvkQFnoECBIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw06b_8WuL6pdId3Jy-GPJw2

That looks like it would work well for my purposes. Hmmm...

Thanks!

 

[thebeavesknees]

I would recommend aluminum conduit and an LB fitting for the entry. Make (or find) a secondary escutcheon for the penetration and fill that with sealant.

I don't think a plastic wire way would last more than a few weeks.

Metal would last longer, but there's a lot of plastic on the outside of this thing so, I think weeks is a bit of a disservice. I don't mind it much, either, and I could easily make a metal shield for the part that runs under the frame.

And I just hate the way LBs look. Yes, that's dumb, but, I'm not often accused of being smart. Heh

 

[justinm001]

Most plastic will last forever just fade in the elements. Another tip is to angle it a bit so water runs off the top and bottom if possible. Similar to how gutters on houses aren't flat but angles just a bit to move water. That or a bit of the quad sealant (not silicone) will block spots for it to sit

 

[CoolWill]

Maybe run it under the trailer so you can use screws to secure it. I'd use EMT myself, but I'm good at bending it how I need it. Your mileage may vary.

 

[thebeavesknees]

Maybe run it under the trailer so you can use screws to secure it. I'd use EMT myself, but I'm good at bending it how I need it. Your mileage may vary.

I'm specifically concerned about protecting the wires as they run down the side of the trailer. Under thr trailer, they will be in conduit until I penetrate the floor, and that hole will be sealed off very well.

 

[Shimmy]

Metal would last longer, but there's a lot of plastic on the outside of this thing so, I think weeks is a bit of a disservice.

Lots of different kinds of plastic. Between wind and UV though I doubt an interior wireway would last long.

And I just hate the way LBs look. Yes, that's dumb, but, I'm not often accused of being smart. Heh

You can use a bell box-- weatherproof cast metal; conduit into the top and conduit into the back to make a 90. Would be properly weather sealed with threaded conduits.

 

[Samsonite801]

This type of external wire routing method is good for at least 88 mph, and looks decently neat and clean (depending on who you talk to)... What is your max speed you will travel in your RV?

 

[ULR]

I'd run the wires under the trailer and supported periodically so they don't droop. But I wouldn't put the major lines - Solar to charge controller, charge controller to battery, battery to inverter (or charge controller and inverter to battery), in any kind of "protective" covering. (12V loads up to 20A I might bundle.) 120V inverter output I'd do according to code. If the solar array was set up for more than 50V I might use a pair-with-built-in-armor, like Romex, also, treating it like line-voltage wiring. (The codes only treat wiring no more than 50V nominal as "low voltage".)

Automotive wiring, especially the high-current sort, is already well armored by tough insulation (and insulated for 600V because modern insulation is good enough that it's silly and weakening to make it lower). Low voltages mean high currents, which means heat, and attempts to "protect" the wire can trap this heat, increasing losses, possibly damaging the wires ,or even risking insulation damage and possible fire.

Look at how the battery and low-voltage wiring on your vehicle and trailer are run: Separate runs for the main lines, except for the multi-conductor cable (with heavy protective cover, comparable to a tire sidewall, factory-built on) to the tow vehicle/trailer connection. Protected by being placed (and occasionally supported) where flying sharps and rubbing on hard edges are not a worry, and left to cool by air circulation and exposed to rain, snow, ice, flying stones, etc.

Put a fuse or fusible link at or near the hotside battery post connection, too. That will protect you if you have a misconnection, major overload, or a puncture-the-armor level disaster.

 

[thebeavesknees]

This type of external wire routing method is good for at least 88 mph, and looks decently neat and clean (depending on who you talk to)... What is your max speed you will travel in your RV?

View attachment 169645

70mph is pushing it. Usually 55mph.

And gosh, this made me giggle. Thank you.

 

[thebeavesknees]

I'd run the wires under the trailer and supported periodically so they don't droop. But I wouldn't put the major lines - Solar to charge controller, charge controller to battery, battery to inverter (or charge controller and inverter to battery), in any kind of "protective" covering. (12V loads up to 20A I might bundle.) 120V inverter output I'd do according to code. If the solar array was set up for more than 50V I might use a pair-with-built-in-armor, like Romex, also, treating it like line-voltage wiring. (The codes only treat wiring no more than 50V nominal as "low voltage".)

My trailer has a full underbelly. Once I get the PV wires down from the roof, they will go into proper conduit until they come up through the floor to where the AIO and battery will reside. Nominal voltage will be between 60-110V depending on what the MPPT controller decides, so it will be above 50V.

Automotive wiring, especially the high-current sort, is already well armored by tough insulation (and insulated for 600V because modern insulation is good enough that it's silly and weakening to make it lower). Low voltages mean high currents, which means heat, and attempts to "protect" the wire can trap this heat, increasing losses, possibly damaging the wires ,or even risking insulation damage and possible fire.

The battery wiring will be less than 2' from the AIO to the battery. This will also be inside the trailer, so I'm very unconcerned about this and wanted to focus on the PV wires. The 120V lines will be run above the underbelly to where my current main panel is running. I'll likely run armored cable for this, just in case.

Look at how the battery and low-voltage wiring on your vehicle and trailer are run: Separate runs for the main lines, except for the multi-conductor cable (with heavy protective cover, comparable to a tire sidewall, factory-built on) to the tow vehicle/trailer connection. Protected by being placed (and occasionally supported) where flying sharps and rubbing on hard edges are not a worry, and left to cool by air circulation and exposed to rain, snow, ice, flying stones, etc.

Put a fuse or fusible link at or near the hotside battery post connection, too. That will protect you if you have a misconnection, major overload, or a puncture-the-armor level disaster.

All the original 12V wiring is going to remain intact. I'm keeping the 12V system completely functional.

 

[HRTKD]

Do you have a vent on the roof for the refrigerator? This is becoming less common as absorption (propane) refrigerators are being phased out and replaced with either AC or DC powered compressor refrigerators which don't need the type of venting that an absorption refrigerator does.

Anyhow, you can run wires down the vent from the roof and bring them into the cabin above the refrigerator. That's how I did it for my PV wires.

 

[thebeavesknees]

Do you have a vent on the roof for the refrigerator? This is becoming less common as absorption (propane) refrigerators are being phased out and replaced with either AC or DC powered compressor refrigerators which don't need the type of venting that an absorption refrigerator does.

Anyhow, you can run wires down the vent from the roof and bring them into the cabin above the refrigerator. That's how I did it for my PV wires.

Nope. 12V compressor fridge. I love the thing, but that means to roof vent.

I'm trying to figure out where the factory PV gland comes through to the interior. If that is something accessible, I'll use that and just not use the undersized wires that it came with.