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RV Mount Tilt Solutions for Residential panels?

liamlunchtray

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Jan 13, 2022
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So its winter and my flat panels just arent cutting it. I have everything mounted to unistrut that run the length of the camper with panel clamps. All of the prefab "tilt kits" I see are for small panels and not panels that are 89" wide. Do any of you have tilt setups for residential panels? How are you doing it? Do yours only tilt in one direction or can you go to either side? I'd love to see some pictures. I have some ideas using hinges with removable pins but I havent been able t find anything yet that would quite work.


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In the UK you can get Unistrut hinges. I hang the frame off the hinges on a wall and adjust the frame angle by inserting different length supports at the bottom with a 2nd type of Unistrut hinge.
 

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I've done some designing with linear actuators, even single axis sun tracking...


since you aren't mounted directly to the roof it's a bit different but could be modified for your application. A number of the manufacturers have wireless actuator operation as well. Does end up being $40-100 per panel for the actuators, though. Just have to feed a power source up to them.
 
When I camp in winter I supplement the rooftop panels by deploying a couple of panels on the ground, oriented to catch the most sun possible.

A ground deployed set of panels, using their own solar charge controller, may end up being less expensive than an automated tilting mechanism for the rooftop panels. The setup time for the ground deployed panels isn't short. I used full size residential panels and now wish I had gone with smaller panels. Since I have a toy hauler trailer the storage of the panels doesn't get in the way of other "stuff" in the trailer. Storing them on the outside of the trailer would be a lot better, but I haven't explored that too much.

Before I installed my rooftop panels I looked at tilting mechanisms. What I found on the Internet was that a manual tilt solution was used a few times and then ignored. The time and effort to tilt and secure them wasn't worth it. Automated solutions are more likely to be used but were cost prohibitive at the time.
 
For my MotorHome I built my own brackets and made them tiltable.

I used an “L” angle aluminum 2” on both sides.

VERNUOS 3PCS 2" x 2" Aluminum... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W64KSR7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I made them 6” long and 4pieces per panel. Bolt 4 on the four corners of the panel. Then attach four down on the roof. Use 1/4” bolts w/locknut as a hinge. Then I got a 1/2” bar about 18” long and I use that to tilt the panels up.

I got a nut zert (so?) tool for my Jeep and I use that to put 1/4-20 threads in the tilt bar. Before that I just used a wing nut on the back.

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Here is one of my panels in the stowed position. On this one I raised the inside up a few more inches to clear the shade from the A/C unit - I also pushed it out a few inches too. I store the tilt bar on the bottom.

It takes about an hour to raise the panels, if plugged in or only staying for a day or two, I don’t bother raising them. But it is not too bad to raise them.

These are 200w panels. I don’t think it would be practical to tilt for bigger panels. I only tilt one direction- but I could tilt the other - if I wanted to mess with the locknuts.
 
In the UK you can get Unistrut hinges. I hang the frame off the hinges on a wall and adjust the frame angle by inserting different length supports at the bottom with a 2nd type of Unistrut hinge.
Now that I'm thinking about it, using these hinges on both sides might be a great idea - Drill out the pins and replace with hitch pins. Then the panels could tilt to either side depending on what direction I have my RV parked.
 
I used door hinges to mount one side of my solar panels. One side of my coach has fake awnings so just drilled into those and put bolts into door hinges then screwed them into the bottom of the panels. On the other side I used flat aluminum strips to connect the panels into 2 groups then bolted those down in a way I could easily remove the bolts then lift up.

My panels are tilted a bit already while driving and getting decent wattage. Never tilted it for better solar but it only takes like 10 minutes to unbolt the screws and lift the panel groups up and over the bus, using string to hold them opposite. It allows me to easily get to the wiring and AC units.

Got 4.3kwh yesterday from 1500w of panels while driving and we had a snowstorm all weekend. Coach was super dirty and even spent like an hour in a truck wash during the day so would have been a bit more solar.

Only problem is I haven't figured the other half where there's actually awnings. Likely will use unistruts and just slide them all together
 
So its winter and my flat panels just arent cutting it. I have everything mounted to unistrut that run the length of the camper with panel clamps. All of the prefab "tilt kits" I see are for small panels and not panels that are 89" wide. Do any of you have tilt setups for residential panels? How are you doing it? Do yours only tilt in one direction or can you go to either side? I'd love to see some pictures. I have some ideas using hinges with removable pins but I havent been able t find anything yet that would quite work.

I'm looking for something similar, on a Cargo Trailer, but same use-case. 83x 41 inch panels. 4 of them.
One of the issues I'm seeing is securely mounting them when stored.

My general research is tending towards linear actuators and either piano or door hinges.

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This RVer only used one actuator - which I think is not enough - since you can see can already see the panels bending. It would have to 2 actuators per two panels.
 
I'm looking for something similar, on a Cargo Trailer, but same use-case. 83x 41 inch panels. 4 of them.
One of the issues I'm seeing is securely mounting them when stored.

My general research is tending towards linear actuators and either piano or door hinges.

20180519_151705.jpg


This RVer only used one actuator - which I think is not enough - since you can see can already see the panels bending. It would have to 2 actuators per two panels.
I'd go door hinges over piano. Piano hinges are always very thin metal and small screw holes. Door hinges are massive in comparison, much thicker bolt and beveled screw holes.
 
Piano hinges are always very thin metal and small screw holes. Door hinges are massive in comparison, much thicker bolt and beveled screw holes.
I agree small screw holes would be bad - but a ton of small rivets into the aluminum frame of the panel might just work.

Stainless steel piano hinges are holding up my Horse Trailers full steel doors. Those suckers have to withstand the force of a 1200lbs animal rubbing against ;) and sometimes a good kick which easy brakes a 2x4 or 2x6 board.
Piano hinges can be strong. My idea would be distributing the load over the whole panel frame and not having 2 points.

For a Door Hinge I would have to built an additional frame - I would not trust screwing them directly into the panel sides.
I may have to do this anyhow for clearance and attaching to the roof rafters., so it would be tie between the hinges.

This person did a pretty trick job of it.
that looks interesting with Gas-Springs.

I don't like that they only attach at the lower 1/3 of the panel. That leaves a large unsupported part when raised. If you have a random wind event - that gives a giant lever to rip out those springs. (from the panel or off the roof)

But in general I like the idea. Just with longer springs to build more of even triangle.
 
I agree small screw holes would be bad - but a ton of small rivets into the aluminum frame of the panel might just work.

Stainless steel piano hinges are holding up my Horse Trailers full steel doors. Those suckers have to withstand the force of a 1200lbs animal rubbing against ;) and sometimes a good kick which easy brakes a 2x4 or 2x6 board.
Piano hinges can be strong. My idea would be distributing the load over the whole panel frame and not having 2 points.

For a Door Hinge I would have to built an additional frame - I would not trust screwing them directly into the panel sides.
I may have to do this anyhow for clearance and attaching to the roof rafters., so it would be tie between the hinges.


that looks interesting with Gas-Springs.

I don't like that they only attach at the lower 1/3 of the panel. That leaves a large unsupported part when raised. If you have a random wind event - that gives a giant lever to rip out those springs. (from the panel or off the roof)

But in general I like the idea. Just with longer springs to build more of even triangle.
Yeah I'm sure they make stong piano hinges just not something you can pickup at home depot. I'm very happy with the door hinges and used the no squeak nicer ones. Just put 1 on each 100w panel with no frame or anything on that side, Screwed each panel on the side together (except for one pair in middle to make 2 sections). Kinda just winged it when drilling the holes so they aren't 100% perfect. The other side is just lag bolts with angle aluminum, that side bends as was meant to be temporary but been like 6 months and haven't touched the other half yet.

To remove I just unscrew the tops of the lag bolts and lift up. Mainly for maintenance but I thought I'd want to put linear actuators and track the sun but I get really good solar with them being tilted just like that (needed tilt to cover ACs).

I'll be swapping these panels out with larger ones and doing the whole roof once it warms up. Will set each side on separate MPPTs and curious to see how different the output will be. Angled away from the sun I seem to still get over 50-70% what I get when directly angled, depending on time of day.
 

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100w panels have a much better frame to glass ratio then the 480w 41x 81 inch panels I am going to install.

50-70% what I get when directly angled
Yep newer panel are much better on off angle situations. It might not worth the trouble of creating a tilt mechanism.

I'm going to have about 4kw of solar panels when I'm done with the trailer. Might be just enough with a small fixed tilt.
 
100w panels have a much better frame to glass ratio then the 480w 41x 81 inch panels I am going to install.


Yep newer panel are much better on off angle situations. It might not worth the trouble of creating a tilt mechanism.

I'm going to have about 4kw of solar panels when I'm done with the trailer. Might be just enough with a small fixed tilt.
I figured 2 door hinges should be plenty and when bolted to the others on the sides it'll be more rigid and stronger.

I have a ton of like 395 and 420w panels I plan on installing soon. Still planning on keeping the same tilt but opposite side will be tilted opposite. I figured this will be the best to get maximum sun in any direction while being as low as possible, I'm somewhere below 13ft now. Also having the solar as kinda a house pitch will help anything debris slide off when it rains.

I think I'll be able to have 4kw of solar on my 40ft roof. my roof has huge end curves then the awnings above so even though its 8ft wide the roof is under 6 and it'll look weird otherwise. Also planning front 2 panels to be forward facing for aero and help block any airflow. These will be connected to my 12V house system, while each side will be on its own 48V mppt. I still need some room for the starlink and cell booster antennas which will be on the rear. Just got the new starlink V3 which is flat and I hopefully will mount this week like a solar panel.
 
This is my plan if we actually boondocked, but we mainly daytrip then go back to campsites for the night.

 
So its winter and my flat panels just arent cutting it. I have everything mounted to unistrut that run the length of the camper with panel clamps. All of the prefab "tilt kits" I see are for small panels and not panels that are 89" wide. Do any of you have tilt setups for residential panels? How are you doing it? Do yours only tilt in one direction or can you go to either side? I'd love to see some pictures. I have some ideas using hinges with removable pins but I havent been able t find anything yet that would quite work.


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I have 2 more panels going on there once the roof air is off.
 
I have an aluminum "salvage" yard that I stop in at every few months. Most of the stuff they have is brand new, not scrap. I came upon a large box of aluminum hinges in their cutoffs section that were being sold by weight. I grabbed a few and am holding on to them for a future project. These are much thicker than the piano hinges you get at big box stores. At least 1/8" thick, might be 3/16". I never measured it.
 
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