datdude
New Member
So I have asked this in an RV forum and did not get the response I was hoping for. So I thought I would post it here.
I keep hearing that you need to disconnect your panels from your controller if you are going to remove your batteries. I understand that if you do not you will have live wires in the battery bay after you remove them. But I keep seeing the myth that your solar controller will burn up if you do that because it will convert the energy from the solar panels into heat and cook itself. So if you can help me understand something, I would greatly appreciate it.
Myth or Fact: If you do not disable or disconnect the solar panels from the solar controller, you risk burning up your controller if a battery is not also connected to the controller.
I can see the logic in the myth and don't necessarily doubt that this could happen with some controllers.
But, what is the difference in the scenario where your batteries are disconnected and unable to absorb the engery and the batteries being 100% SOC and unable to absorb the energy?
If the controller somehow manages the panel side of the circuit and opens it somehow when the batteries are full, why doesn't it fail the panel circuit open when batteries are not present to protect itself? Or does this already happen in some fashion and the myth remains a myth?
I am hopeful someone can explain the how and why here. I can and will test it sometime myself but am hopeful someone else has done this or has specific knowledge.
My intention when I have the trailer out next is to measure voltage on the controller to negative battery terminal while it is disconnected in the sun and see if voltage is flowing into the batteries when the controller is powered off since I think it is powered from the batteries and not the solar (is this generally true?). That should tell me whether the controller is disconnecting the panels when powered off. I will also pull the controller out and try to measure heat on the unit / heatsink.
For particulars about my setup:
Factory installed Go Power 570w kit with non-bluetooth PWM 30 amp controller and 3x190w panels and 1500w inverter with transfer switch. Everything there is factory and connected to 2x100ah GoPower LFP batteries which are also non-bluetooth. I do have a Victron smartshunt with bluetooth.
If anyone has any input to any of this, or has already done this type of thing, please please let me know .
Thanks all
I keep hearing that you need to disconnect your panels from your controller if you are going to remove your batteries. I understand that if you do not you will have live wires in the battery bay after you remove them. But I keep seeing the myth that your solar controller will burn up if you do that because it will convert the energy from the solar panels into heat and cook itself. So if you can help me understand something, I would greatly appreciate it.
Myth or Fact: If you do not disable or disconnect the solar panels from the solar controller, you risk burning up your controller if a battery is not also connected to the controller.
I can see the logic in the myth and don't necessarily doubt that this could happen with some controllers.
But, what is the difference in the scenario where your batteries are disconnected and unable to absorb the engery and the batteries being 100% SOC and unable to absorb the energy?
If the controller somehow manages the panel side of the circuit and opens it somehow when the batteries are full, why doesn't it fail the panel circuit open when batteries are not present to protect itself? Or does this already happen in some fashion and the myth remains a myth?
I am hopeful someone can explain the how and why here. I can and will test it sometime myself but am hopeful someone else has done this or has specific knowledge.
My intention when I have the trailer out next is to measure voltage on the controller to negative battery terminal while it is disconnected in the sun and see if voltage is flowing into the batteries when the controller is powered off since I think it is powered from the batteries and not the solar (is this generally true?). That should tell me whether the controller is disconnecting the panels when powered off. I will also pull the controller out and try to measure heat on the unit / heatsink.
For particulars about my setup:
Factory installed Go Power 570w kit with non-bluetooth PWM 30 amp controller and 3x190w panels and 1500w inverter with transfer switch. Everything there is factory and connected to 2x100ah GoPower LFP batteries which are also non-bluetooth. I do have a Victron smartshunt with bluetooth.
If anyone has any input to any of this, or has already done this type of thing, please please let me know .
Thanks all