Terminal blocks for solar panel junction box?

[12VoltInstalls]

Longish post.
I think my plan is fine.
Criticism IRL has me second guessing myself.

Context:
I have what most consider a ‘small’ system of currently/newly 2500W of solar panels. These are all home-runs to 4 SCC’s.

I’ve always been a bit fussy about homeruns to avoid fire risk (resistance makes heat) and homeruns do not have efficiency implications nor connections (MC4’s) to be a failure point. Was somewhat easy being a (mostly) stationary RV with 1kW of panels mounted to it.

New property I just purchased and moved here fully offgrid.
I have ~1900W facing SW, and ~600W SE and just built a small 24’ shop building to which the panels are mounted with total run to RV is 75’ +/-
I am wired homerun right now but it has become clear that I need some flexibility before ‘final’ install because at the very least I need to be able to disconnect at the camper, and to perhaps add disconnects at the shop I will need to cut wire as well.

I have these and these on hand, spares from a 12V project. Is there any reason to not use them with crimped and soldered ring terminals on thhn as junction blocks for solar? The seem to have the voltage rating.

Wires are in underground 1/2” black poly pipe. The terminal blocks will be installed in IP68 6x6 JB’s with waterproof conduit compression gland nuts. I want one JB on interior wall of shop, one on the frame rail of camper, underneath.

Friend’s brother is electrician, said use wire nuts. I’m not using wire nuts on DC. Thanks

3 runs connect 630W of panel at ~93VOC, 1 run connects 600W at 132VOC

 

[SeaGal]

Not these https://a.co/d/9FNZWi3 ... they are only 3A and look very exposed to me.

The others (these https://a.co/d/33jsWDQ) look fine - will handle the I's as well as the V's and have a nice cover.

 

[efficientPV]

You would be better off with compression terminals than those second ones. Both are rather light duty. Screw terminals won't work well with stranded conductors.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Not these https://a.co/d/9FNZWi3 ... they are only 3A and look very exposed to me.

Actually I guess they are not currently available, but mine were 20A and it appears I bought them 2019. Don’t know where they are atm it appears.

The others (these https://a.co/d/33jsWDQ) look fine - will handle the I's as well as the V's and have a nice cover.

I have this style in 25A. Somewhere. I like the cover, too.
I used these for someone’s utility trailer, and a boat project. I have a couple for my own boat, and a couple spares. Now that I’m thinking about it I might have ordered these after rejecting the others because I don’t recall installing them anywhere.

You would be better off with compression terminals than those second ones. Both are rather light duty. Screw terminals won't work well with stranded conductors.

with crimped and soldered ring terminals

 

[jimcrist]

I have two 25 year old 12V Solarex VLX-32 32 watt panels hooked in parallel that operate a gate. Our old gate was 12V and the new gate is 24V. I'm told it would be better if the panels were connected in series. I opened the lower panel junction box and it was full of ant crud and the connectors are badly corroded. I also see an anode and some jumper wires. I could cut some wires, use wire nuts as connectors and change it to in series. Would that work? Is the anode important? Do I have to buy new panels? Currently, they're generating 17V, which seems OK, and the gate works on sunny days, but there's four houses behind the gate and the two new 12V 7AH batteries aren't keeping up on a cloudy day. Thanks for your help!! Oops...looks like I posted on an old thread...sorry...I'll repost...

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Is the anode important?

Can’t see it all on my phone but that’s probably to avoid galvanic interchanges on the gate