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WZRELB Reliable Inverter 60v + 60v polarity issue. Ground and neutral have 60v?

Wattsinwattsout

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If you own a WZRELB Reliable inverter you should do a quick safety test for continuity between the terminal bus hot and the case outlet hot connections. If these are not wired correctly you can have a cross feed of power to the neutral terminal bus and if that is connected to earth ground it can blow the unit. If untreated it can damage equipment and or create a safety hazard.

If you own and use one of these inverters please take the time to check the factory wiring. The two I have tie the terminal hot to the outlet neutral together. The neutral outlet connection is back feeding current as soon as you plug something into the outlet.

I have made a few videos of this issue and how to fix it.

P.S. These are very well made inverters, they use very little idle current, they handle their rated output (as long as battery supply and cables are sufficient), and they last a very long time. I own two of them and may buy another split phase unit in the future. I think this is just a wiring diagram issue in the factory or a lack of QC oversight for this particular issue. I have reached out to them(WZRELB) twice but have not yet received any response.


 
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Very interesting and informative. Solves a lot of of problems and safety issues.
 
I have a reliable 3000w and a Giandel 2200, sure enough teh WZrelb had the cross wiring terminal hot to plug neutral, made the switch as you have shown above, surprised my Giandel had same issue. I wrote to Giandel and sent pictures
there response complete jibberish.

My email to Giandel 9_22_23
Hello I purchased a Giandel model PS-2200KAR back on May 20 2022
I recently noticed the terminal block wires are cross wired with the AC out plugs
The terminal block marked L or hot does not have any continnuinity with the hot side RS plug slot (see picture 1) but it does with the neutral side LS slot plug see attached picture 2.
This means it is cross wired and would have blown the inverter if I had the terminal block wires wired to my subpanel and If I ever also tried also to connect another accesssory (like a light of fan) to the inverter plug sockets.
______________________________________________________________________
Hello Thomas,
Thank you for your email.
The inverter operates in alternating phases, and the neutral and live line identification of the generated AC power is symbolic and different from the mains power.
This does not affect the use of the inverter, you can try running various loads.
If you want to test the AC voltage of the inverter, please test the neutral and live of the inverter's AC terminal blocks.
Hope my answer can help you learn more about our inverters.
Giandel Support team


LS slot plug see attached picture 2.giandel 1.jpg
This means it is cross wired and would have blown the inverter if I had the terminal block wires wired to my subpanel and If I ever also tried also to connect another accesssory (like a light of fan) to the inverter plug sockets.
 
I have a WZRELB 2500 watt 24v inverter purchased in late 2020 and it is wired just like your YouTube video, so this is not a new problem. I do agree it is a problem, but my question is “How could this problem not have been spotted in the hundreds of “reviews” in the past several years?”. I never used the terminal block, and just used my inverter in off grid mode, so I never saw the problem. I did wonder why my APC surge protector outlet strip plugged into the inverter’s outlet had a red warning light and now I know. The invert is not in use at the moment since I used its battery elsewhere, but I will definitely make the terminal switch in your videos before I put it back online.

Reviewers, do a better job! Cheap Chinese electronics need better second party validation.
 
I have a WZRELB 3k 48v split phase which I plan to use for grid down situations at home.

It does appear not have the continuity problems mentioned earlier in this thread. See table below for my test results.

What I am unclear on is where the manual states the following...

"If the house neutral wire is combined with the ground, connect the N line with it, leave the G line alone. Do not connect the inverter's G line with the N line together."

I am confused on what this means. Don't all homes have a neutral ground bond in their main panel? What scenario would it not be that way? Is it saying the only way to ground the inverter itself is to connect it to a separate grounding rod than the house one? Am I supposed to just connect L1, L2 and N to the house panel?

Outlet 1Terminal block L1Terminal block NTerminal block L2Terminal block G
LContinuity
NContinuity
GContinuity
Outlet 2
LContinuity
NContinuity
GContinuity
 
I just purchased a ‎WZRELB 3000w 24v inverter to replace my Xijia inverter in my camper van. Xijia worked great for about 3 years. Used every day for three months straight on a summer road trip. I was preparing for another trip and turned the solar system back on. I noticed that I could not turn off the inverter with the switch on the inverter, and the inverter was making a buzzing noise. I turned off the main disconnect from the battery and then turned it back on; I pre-charged caps, heard a pop from the inverter, and smelled smoke. I blew four of eight 20a fused. Replaced fused and discounted everything from the inverter. Powered on and, for a moment or so, was on, then pop. I blew another fuse, replaced them, and turned it on- nothing!

I will connect the new WZRELB like the Xijia-positive from the battery, negative to the negative busbar, which is ground to the van's metal. Inverter terminal block L, N, G to my breaker box. I do not use the outlet on the inverter. I'm wondering if I should just disconnect the outlet on the inverter; problem solved???
 
If you own a WZRELB Reliable inverter you should do a quick safety test for continuity between the terminal bus hot and the case outlet hot connections. If these are not wired correctly you can have a cross feed of power to the neutral terminal bus and if that is connected to earth ground it can blow the unit. If untreated it can damage equipment and or create a safety hazard
I have a 2000W unit. “QZRELB” (what’s the difference QZRELB or WZRELB ?)

Anyway someone messaged me here on that a year and a half back about this. I reversed the correct wires on the board.
Maybe they want them to die young?

With mine one terminal wouldn’t release off the spade so i gently grabbed it with needle nosed pliers. Oops.
Had to solder it back to the board.

I’d like a 12V 3000W version. And I’ll certainly check the functions again when I buy one.
This inverter (2000W QZRELB) starts and runs my old 15A Porter Cable circular saw. That is impressive.

It is frustrating that there’s issues with them.

The other concern is one you almost touched on: bonding. There are posts that say you cannot bond it. But the thing is it WILL wind up bonded with a typical house panel unless a transfer switch also switches neutral to isolate. There’s a thread here somewhere on how to test it to determine if it can be bonded.
(Giandel describes bonding downstream and not in their inverters. Which confuses me because electrically if it’s bonded anywhere it’s bonded to its chassis at that point anyway.)

It just stinks when these manufacturers put out screwed up equipment and then don’t even know what they are talking about when you contact them.
 
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