Just checking that you have WiFi within range of this installation?
...the camera consumes about 10 watts of power....
Depends on where you live and the time of year. From this link (scroll down to the calculator), use the calculator to find the worst value for insolation (PVWatts or SAM will give you better numbers, but they're a lot more complicated to use).What type of system do I need to get to keep the camera running 24/7?
15V is a difficult job...
A 12V panel under load will be around 18v... if you got a 25 watt panel, it could work, but it could also destroy the camera when conditions are favorable... I wouldn’t try, unless nest offers a solar option.
Depends on where you live and the time of year. From this link (scroll down to the calculator), use the calculator to find the worst value for insolation (PVWatts or SAM will give you better numbers, but they're a lot more complicated to use).
Let's say the smallest solar insolation is 4.
Power required: 24 hrs x 10 W = 240 Wh/d, 3 days reserve [optional]: 240 x 3 = 720 Wh.
At 12V, 720 Wh / 12 = 60 Ah battery.
240 Wh/d / 4 hrs (insolation) = 60 Watt, assume 20% power losses, so 75W solar panel. To catch up for lost power from cloudy days a 100W?
Setup your panels to charge a 12 or 24V battery bank with an SCC. Then use a buck/boost (depending if you went 12 or 24V) to convert to 15V or a 15V regulator. Supervstech's ideal of building your own battery is a good one too, but a bit more complicated.
If you live in a climate where temperatures are ever below 60°F (Lead acid), 0°C (Lithium) or greater than 100F, see the Battery FAQ as it'll affect your battery.
Also check the FAQs for a lot of example calculations.
Best bet is probably to bury the battery to keep it from getting to cold (LiFePO4 can be irreversibly damaged if trying to charge below 0° C, or get an LiFePO4 with a low temp cutoff)....I live in Canada...
Yes, if there's no other way to keep it warm.What's the next best option, AGM?
Depends on where you live and the time of year. From this link (scroll down to the calculator), use the calculator to find the worst value for insolation (PVWatts or SAM will give you better numbers, but they're a lot more complicated to use).
Setup your panels to charge a 12 or 24V battery bank with an SCC. Then use a buck/boost (depending if you went 12 or 24V) to convert to 15V or a 15V regulator. Supervstech's ideal of building your own battery is a good one too, but a bit more complicated.
Also check the FAQs for a lot of example calculations.
Don't forget to add in the losses from the SCC. I used 20% losses, but actual values range widely.... insolation value is 1.21.
240 Wh/d / 1.21 hrs (insolation) = 200W
Sure can! Don't forget to add power in for the inverter efficiency losses.Can I use an inverter instead?
Will it work with a modified sine wave? Do you by chance have a dead jump-starter? If so, these threads might interest you:What's the next best option, AGM?
I think the simplest solution would be a small 120 volt inverter based system.Yes wifi is within range.
Also found out from the manuals that the camera consumes about 10 watts of power.
Don't forget to add in the losses from the SCC. I used 20% losses, but actual values range widely.
Sure can! Don't forget to add power in for the inverter efficiency losses.
Will it work with a modified sine wave? Do you by chance have a dead jump-starter? If so, these threads might interest you:
Even if you don't have a dead one, might be an inexpensive way to get you what you need like this $18 inverter.
With the temps .. I get 2 x 12 AGM battery and a 24V solar panel (2x12) and a buck converter (24 to 15) ....
If you don't want to use the alligator clips, anything directly connected to the battery would do....One thing that I need clarification though is cleaner way to connect the solar panels to the jump starter. Is there a guide you can refer me to that uses a standard plug instead of the alligator clips for the connection?
Worse case, cut through the case and add your favorite style of connector (e.g., an Anderson). | Or, just two small machine screws if there isn't much room inside: The washers on both sides of the case add strength to the "connector", inside nut holds the screw and battery connector (ring terminal) in place, outside nut holds the ring terminal from the SCC securely. Might want to use red nail polish on the positive nut. |
Please post pictures of your solution, can't wait to see what you come up with!