Recent content by 12vDC

Looks like a good battery. I hear the "dont buy renogy battery" statements but I never actually get to read first hand accounts on how bad they are. Maybe there are some here in the forum? (I have better things to do). But as I may or may not have stated earlier, I had a positive experience...

yes stick to the name brand components such as Blue Sea. only (1) main switch after the Tclass. the shunt is first connection after the bank negative busbar. optional is to insert a distribution block such as a Victron Lynx, or more bus bars for each pos/neg cable after the cutoff switch/after...

Ive always wondered just how much difference it would make. Im thinking with as many individual cells inside each battery the inequality could be more significant as the capacity increases. If you care enough and have the means, you should use proper capacity bus bars with equal length...

Mostly a subjective query… Besides battleborn, you mostly get what you pay for. But then there are some quality barebones chinese offerings with great customer service. One mans trash is anothers treasure. If youre using a Cerbo and/or smart shunt it would not be necessary to go bluetooth...

Which one did you purchase?

I have the TEMCO like that. My buddy returned his crimper after using mine. And it does 4/O ftw. I think it goes down to 8ga? At least 6ga I know. I believe there are a couple threads on crimpers here.

Oh wow. Thats why I came here is to learn. I agree thats not an ideal performance from LiTime. I believe Redodo Power Queen LiTime are the same. And if so, they are very good about customer service (exchange). Maybe you could even get a refund?

The answer is no. As I understand how self-heating works, the BMS will disengage the charge circuit at 32° until 41°F and then allow charging. Unless your battery is different, ignore the “20A charger” info with regards to selfheating.

I just installed a Victron BMS (its an 80A current limiter) for alternator charging. I have the BMS operating from a dash switch and did not install it to run full time, only at idle. I have the Orion30 for full time duty. I was finally able to test it last weekend having the bank SOC go...

What are some of the pros/cons of having separate charge controllers vice AIO?

The non-BB components are about $2300? So they want roughly $10K (regular pricing) for their batteries and labor to assemble?? But the best part: 6-8 weeks leadtime. “But if you call now, we’ll throw in this toaster absolutely free…” 🙄

wait whut? yeah i thought we were talking about a “van”… i probably missed the purpose of this sizeable equipment too. i’m audi5000

I didnt infer time which is correct, I was attempting to be succinct. My heating system is temp controlled, no worry for over heating. Please clarify the above statement. The heating you provide maintains the heat or the discharging does? You already agreed maintaining a CORE temperature...

⬆️ also the CORE temp is what we are aiming for vice a dropdead ambient temp of 0°C once the cell core becomes “frozen” it will take much more external thermal compensation to overcome. conversely when the core is warm or hot it takes a while for that temperature to recede.