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Looks like a good battery. I hear the "dont buy renogy battery" statements but I never actually get to read first hand accounts on how bad they are. Maybe there are some here in the forum? (I have better things to do). But as I may or may not have stated earlier, I had a positive experience...

yes stick to the name brand components such as Blue Sea. only (1) main switch after the Tclass. the shunt is first connection after the bank negative busbar. optional is to insert a distribution block such as a Victron Lynx, or more bus bars for each pos/neg cable after the cutoff switch/after...

Ive always wondered just how much difference it would make. Im thinking with as many individual cells inside each battery the inequality could be more significant as the capacity increases. If you care enough and have the means, you should use proper capacity bus bars with equal length...

Mostly a subjective query… Besides battleborn, you mostly get what you pay for. But then there are some quality barebones chinese offerings with great customer service. One mans trash is anothers treasure. If youre using a Cerbo and/or smart shunt it would not be necessary to go bluetooth...

Which one did you purchase?

I have the TEMCO like that. My buddy returned his crimper after using mine. And it does 4/O ftw. I think it goes down to 8ga? At least 6ga I know. I believe there are a couple threads on crimpers here.

Oh wow. Thats why I came here is to learn. I agree thats not an ideal performance from LiTime. I believe Redodo Power Queen LiTime are the same. And if so, they are very good about customer service (exchange). Maybe you could even get a refund?

The answer is no. As I understand how self-heating works, the BMS will disengage the charge circuit at 32° until 41°F and then allow charging. Unless your battery is different, ignore the “20A charger” info with regards to selfheating.

I just installed a Victron BMS (its an 80A current limiter) for alternator charging. I have the BMS operating from a dash switch and did not install it to run full time, only at idle. I have the Orion30 for full time duty. I was finally able to test it last weekend having the bank SOC go...

What are some of the pros/cons of having separate charge controllers vice AIO?

The non-BB components are about $2300? So they want roughly $10K (regular pricing) for their batteries and labor to assemble?? But the best part: 6-8 weeks leadtime. “But if you call now, we’ll throw in this toaster absolutely free…” 🙄

wait whut? yeah i thought we were talking about a “van”… i probably missed the purpose of this sizeable equipment too. i’m audi5000

I didnt infer time which is correct, I was attempting to be succinct. My heating system is temp controlled, no worry for over heating. Please clarify the above statement. The heating you provide maintains the heat or the discharging does? You already agreed maintaining a CORE temperature...

⬆️ also the CORE temp is what we are aiming for vice a dropdead ambient temp of 0°C once the cell core becomes “frozen” it will take much more external thermal compensation to overcome. conversely when the core is warm or hot it takes a while for that temperature to recede.

SOLD

"Probably" famous last words... 😉 Yeah I also tested with each two-pad string in series and it took too long to achieve any warmth so I decided to stick with the 7W 12V rating of each pad. Maybe in a sealed container a battery box exposed to harsh conditions even for long durations the lower...

For reference I have 6 small pads attached to an aluminum plate for 50W @13V. In my testing in open air I found it acceptable with heat being absorbed into the battery cases surprisingly quickly.

Xantrex claims 36W at idle for my model 3000. I was mistaken, the small inverter I am using is a 300W unit (not 350). I did A LOT of research and chose this Bestek model. https://a.co/d/1LpZKuc Many choices out there, find one that will make you happy. Bestek claims: The current...

I believe while DC to DC modules are by default converters, you might be referring to a charger instead? My van battery systems are isolated. I ended up going that way once I finally figured out WTH I was doing. Now its a preference. If there is any one reason, its so that an issue in one...

Yeah I thought I had found a deal!! Until I realized it wouldnt connect to the app… :fp2

Im working on heating my undercarriage water tanks and circulating the water, both operating from temp relays. I believe the above calcs will be my experience when I boondock for 2-4days at a time in the winter. Running the diesel heater for 8-12hrs/evening, and the battery heating plate...

UNUSED IOTA IDP-240 50A Distribution box 120/240 $40 Used Victron Multicontrol 200 $40 Used JNLL 300A Littelfuse with Deltec FB2 holder $30 Used Victron BMV702 display only $10 Located in San Diego. Shipping additional.

My Victron components only agree on voltage when charging is taking place. Otherwise at rest, in Victron Connect they report differently from 0.15-0.20V from the shunt to the battery. Not sure if the difference in resistance value is acceptable, but its close enough for me. The bank does what...

I presume your wire guage specs are accurate, I will let you verify. My opinion would be to add a shunt monitor. And my preference would be to use a blue sea thermal breaker on the input sides where applicable instead of fuses, for ease of maintenance and troubleshooting.

Soooo, I wonder how many unsuspecting schleps out there are going to incur some kind of meltdown…. yikes, note to self

BMS are overrated… So wait, then they are severely understating the max discharge current 🤔

Just to confirm, did you do the below step (again) after adding the new battery and bank fully charged? Set capacity to zero or full: On first use or change of the battery bank, the memory capacity should be set zero or full: In the main interface, hold the key for 3s to set the capacity...

you need to change the battery capacity setting on the Monitor instead. Preset capacity and voltage setting: Press the key for 3s to enter setting menu; Click or key to select the setting items: CAP—Preset capacity: An initial capacity has been set at the factory, please set it according...

Some will find a way how. Some will find a way not to. In my van I dont have a cooking stove, dont need one. I certainly wouldnt spend $1100 and some change to put one in a van unless there was an absolute advantage. But I get that you wanted to leverage the fuel aspect. And I have just...

Maybe I was presumptuous given the title of the thread - the simple solution is to improve your electrical system. So I would change my response to: Make wiser purchases. Maybe not your fault it was susceptible to cracking. Sucks to find out this way. Otherwise I also presume you would...

And hopefully you take the point in my lecture.

I would never try to sell you a hole…But I would suggest that what you limit yourself to is exactly what you will get. Im as frugal as they come and while there is something to be said about simplicity, other times its much better to do something more difficult. Because living in a van is not...

I remember now, the instructions arent as straight forward for someone unfamiliar with AC units besides the varying colors of wires used. I had to consult with the manufacturer a couple times before realizing the start capacitor was bad on my unit. Found a close enough replacement on eBay...

Do the 48V AIO with a stepdown. Would seem simpler for the solar as well. Which battery(s) are you planning to use? Do you have a diagram to share? If not, it should help you determine what is easiest and/or better for the long run.