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Those panels in 3S2P should work fine with your charge controller. If you have a shunt already, I would definitely suggest that you go ahead and wire it in - in addition to giving you SOC, it really helps with learning how things work with your first system. I'd also suggest that you add a...

My trailer has an aluminum skin so I really can't comment on the potential for fracturing the fiberglass, but the fact that it flexes that much would make me nervous about mounting panel brackets to it without anything going through to the frame, even with backer plates. I think I'd just take...

I thought about that, and actually have another iteration of the design in 12V with the batteries in parallel with a slightly over-paneled system. However, there are several posts on the Forum about the SOKs being able to discharge 150A continuous, and since I'll be careful about the loads I...

Having an inverter will give you more flexibility if you don't mind the added cost - just make sure that whichever one you choose can power the loads you need it to power and that the battery you choose has the discharge capacity to support it. There's a big difference between running a charger...

This video from Will a few years ago helped convince me that multiple SCC for one battery bank was fine despite what Renogy told me. Going with two SCC in my 24V system allowed me to use two different sets of mismatched panels, use a ground array that could bring in PV when the trailer was...

From what I've read on this forum, reading low (not high) is a known issue with Renogy SCCs. My Renogy Rover 40 amp SCC consistently reads .25V low (even .3V low at higher voltages) compared to my Victron smart shunt and multimeter, so my settings on the SCC are based on the expectation that it...

Ignore the SOC readings on the charge controller - it's based off voltage which doesn't really work for LiFePO4, especially when the batteries are being charged or are under load. What you described is probably just an expected slight voltage drop when your freezer's compressor was on and...

Working class for now (hence the Renogy SCC) but in a couple years I plan to do a cabin build, so would like to learn from the trailer system in order to make good decisions about the cabin system.

I think it really depends on your system and situation. If I were designing a system for the OP's situation (shed/small cabin with mostly DC loads) I would choose 24V. In addition to allowing you more PV input and having smaller cables to make set up in a small space easier compared to 12V...

Welcome to the forum - lots of good info here. Your inverter in going to pull ~ 150 amps continuous (3000W / 24 volts / .85 efficiency conversion) but your battery's max discharge is only 100 amps, so you're going to need a second battery in parallel, which would also be a better fit for the...

That's funny cuz I'm trying to get my trailer done enough in the next 3 weeks to head down to warmer temps in Utah and New Mexico - have an off grid property at 9600 ft in CO and it finally turned into winter here so I need to order some stuff and then finish installation someplace with less...

Does that mean there is also no place to attach a tether? Sorry I am not familiar with GRP-skinned caravan roof structures, but there has to be some kind of frame somewhere, right? Hopefully someone with direct experience will chime in. Personally I wouldn't want any size panels on my trailer...

Is there a DC charger available for your batteries? For example, DeWalt and Milwaukee sell car chargers that run off 12V. If so, you can cut out the inverter. If you want to keep things simple you could just use a small solar generator and a 100W panel - I've charged my DeWalt batteries that...

If you can remove the headliner, won't you be able to see where the aluminum frame is? If so, then at least some of your brackets could be attached with through bolts to the frame.

Not sure I understand your comment, but I think 12voltinstalls was referring to the total PV input, not the size of the individual panels. For info for your system planning, I run a 24V 206 Ah system (2 x SOK 12V) with 400W panels, 12/24V Dometic fridge, 12/24V USB-C laptop/phone chargers...

There's a good discussion here: Ferrule thread

LOTS of info on the forum about PV disconnects - quite a few things to consider. Here are some links but there are many more: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/do-i-need-a-solar-diconnect.54293/#post-738969 https://diysolarforum.com/search/1458974/?q=pv+disconnect&o=relevance...

You might get some ideas here: https://diysolarforum.com/search/1440344/?q=sun+tracker&o=relevance

Keep in mind that DeWalt batteries don't have a low voltage cutoff - it's in the tool - so you'd need to either have a low voltage disconnect or keep an eye on the voltage and swap them out as needed. Sounds like your use case won't use much current, but you don't want to forget and kill one by...

It also works with a Renogy Rover Li 40 amp SCC

Thought this was interesting. The application is very narrow (foot pump system that's only used intermittently for small amounts of water) but it takes up almost no space and seems to work well for the intended purpose.

I did the same thing with a couple of 206 AH SOK batteries. They arrived at 13.03V (~ 30% SOC) which I believe is how SOK ships them - that would put your ~ 78 Ah about right. Mine sat for almost a year (wired in parallel for the last 6 months) and stayed at 13.03 V that entire time. When I...

Well, both. You'll find different opinions on this forum about using VHB tape alone vs tape in conjunction with another method like screws. Personally, tape alone would be too risky for me. Larger surface area is obviously better, but even with full length struts I'd want some screws or bolts...

I've been lurking and learning here for a while (can't say enough about how helpful the resources and posts on this Forum have been), so here goes my first post. I would appreciate any input you might have on this 24V system for my cargo trailer conversion. I already have the Renogy panels and...

From a purely practical standpoint I prefer 24V to keep cable sizes down - in my experience wiring up the main components in a small space can be a real pain with large stiff cables. I run mostly DC loads, and while there are some (MaxxAir fan, cellular router) that require 12V, I found that...

This is how I would fix it (if you can find a Raspberry Pi that is):

I have a couple Renogy 100W panels that I use occasionally as a portable ground array. I'm looking to switch the connections from MC4 to XT60 (won't be out in the rain, easier to move them between systems), so I opened the panel junction boxes to see if it might be better to rewire them there...

How will your mounts be "bonded to the roof"? Here's a thread you may find helpful: Large solar panel install

Thank you! I will change the wire and fuse sizes as you suggested. I assume the class T fuse should replace the terminal fuse on the battery terminal?

This is brilliant! Thanks so much for taking the time to do all the documentation - much appreciated!!