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I would say this is completely backwards. You can't build a 12v 100ah battery cheaper that buying a drop in. You can build 48v 280ah for much less than buying prebuilt.

Your cables are wrong. Shunt should be between both neg battery cables and neg bus bar. You only have one battery on the shunt.

Are you currently running everything straight off of the generator? Does the RV have a built inverter already so you can hook the batteries and solar up, then supplement with the generator at night?

I think your situation calls for 24v. The larger 48v systems have double the standby consumption, which requires more battery and PV. Something to consider is a 2500w 24v inverter is going to exceed 100 amps of many BMS's. Chins makes a 12v self heated battery (works off charge current just...

Sounds like a loose or high resistance connection in the battery or wiring. I've seen cables on boats rot on the inside and look perfectly fine on the out side. Check every connection

The AIO inverters have a high standby power requirements that need more battery storage to compensate. I would look at staying 12v, Dometic has 12VDC RV Ac unites. They have 2 sizes, this is the smaller one...

Two options. Put both Batt Neg on the battery side of shunt. Then short jumper from System Neg to the Neg busbar. Or, since you only have one cable for your system Neg, put that on the shunt. Then both Batt Neg to busbar and short jumper to Batt side of shunt. That is the option I would...

Wondering how feasible this is to save money. Assuming all 15kw is bought on peak time = 7.5p per day Assuming all 15kw could be supplied by your system and recharged off peak. You have probably introduced 30% inefficiency with AC -> DC -> AC So now your daily demand is 19.5kw and about 1.5p...

If everything on the AC panel will run off 110 from the inverter, then running everything off of 1 leg of 220 shouldn't be a problem. Unless your inverter is greater than 5kw, but you didn't specify. I have wired the gen with a cord to plug into the shore power port. I've never needed to...

Seems you need 1 system to run the 120vac loads of your office, kitchen and A/C. Then another to run the 12vdc of a live aboard boat. You didn't mention anything about refrigerator/freezer, electric head, water pump and ect. All usually are 12vdc and run off the house bank. Then there is...

Considering the BattleBorns are over 2 times the cost of other options, you could buy 4 lower cost batteries and keep a spare. Or possibly fit 6 50ah LPF's in a 3S2P config for redundancy. Then a single battery failure would halve your capacity but keep you fishing.

Just my opinion but I were you, these are the components I would use. Since you will live here, I would upgrade to better components that a cheap AIO. Multiplus 2000 - Great inverter efficiency, gives battery charging and shore power options, can turn on/off remotely EPEVER 40 - Try to over...

I'm confused in what you are trying to accomplish with the components selected. First you stated a goal of running everything off solar and only use generator as a failsafe. You want to run 1-2 ac units, washer/dryer, and the rest of everyday items. You have selected what I assume is a 3000va...

Running AC on your budget isnt going to happen, summer is over so hopefully it cools off where you are. My recommendation is set your batteries up for 24v. Buy this...

Like said before, server rack is a form factor for permanent mount solar. Also a good value when looking at Wh per $. Lifepo4 and LFP are the same, just different ways of saying Lithium Iron Phosphate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery They are very safe and are...

You have a lot a variable in your equation, so any system is going to be a big compromise. You not having much (or any) solar makes the standby consumption of the AIO's a big problem. Sounds like you are committed to a 5.12kwh battery in either 24 or 48v. The smaller Mpp 24v AIO is 25w and...

If you just want to run the lift. A 4000 watt low frequency inverter probably at 24vdc input. 100ah of lead acid batteries at 24vdc and 2x 100watt solar panels in series with a 10amp charge controller. Pwm or mppt doesnt matter. If you want to power more like dock lights, keep a electric...

Set your EG4 charge/discharge voltages a comfortable margin between what the BMS is programmed. Ask 10 people what those voltages are and you will get 11 different answers. Obviously you need to stay between recommended values for LFP and program your BMS to protect the cells. Then search the...

Got it. Then you are going to need wiring diagrams of the starting and charging circuits of the Truck. This is going to be hard to do because the alternator is tied directly to the starting battery. When the engine is not running the DC is supplied by the battery. Once the engine starts it...

Glad to hear your system is working, looks like a quality build. Did you ever consider just using a battery selector switch to go between AGM and LFP? Add a simple interlock so you can't start/run the car from LFP. Use solar and DC-DC charger on LFP and switch to that supply while camping...

This would give you a little more power that the generator and would be super simple to add. https://watts247.com/product/pip-2724lv-mr/ Its limitation is the low amount of solar it can handle but 2 of these in parallel would work...

That's where I'm at, was hoping someone here had tried it. If I pull the trigger, I'll update on how/if it works.

I'm confused, if your primary loads are max 120 amp 12v and will rarely use a 2000w inverter, what are the high amps that you are afraid of?

Slot EATON load center for Generator input bypass with interlock Can you share the exact parts used and how this is wired? I am having trouble visualizing it.

I have not read the whole post and this is based off the latest diagram. In Limp Home mode, all your LFP charging sources are connected directly to your SLA bank. Orion should be hooked up to Lynx to continue charging SLA via Alt, Solar or Phoenix. SLA should be then be switched in to DC...

The cost of used equipment is not eligible for the tax break. Your use case probably will never make financial sense compared to a generator. Who cares do it anyway...yeah solar!

https://www.amazon.com/Depinning-Electrical-Connector-Extractor-Automotive/dp/B0922GF9W8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=terminal+removal+tool+kit&qid=1672867462&sprefix=terminal+r%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFLOUo1SkM3RzczODkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NDc4OTEzUkdSM005WUVVUko...

https://watts247.com/product/pip-2724lv-mr/

I did miss the possibility of manually paralleling the 2 chemistries. Could be fixed with a mechanic interlock between the 2 switches but I don't know if something like that is commercially available. Something like this but for DC battery switches Original design is good but complex. My...

Engine driven compressor will require less than 2 HP and have little to no effect on gph. Con is you only get AC when the engine is running. What is your current house battery and capacity, solar array and alternator sizes. Does the boat have a generator? How do you use your trawler; sitting...