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Just got my torque adapter to properly torque down my terminals on the newest battery. Here it is with a load before torque: Then all terminals were torqued to 5Nm. Delta doesn't bounce by 20mA either and stays well within my tolerances. Torque your terminals please.

Since I had some spare power in the battery, I decided to give it a test of what I would consider max output. 65A to charge my car. Tested and it started fine. Set a timer to shut down the charging as to not fully discharge the battery. Checked on SOC after I did that and I did not lose much...

Fitting, no. I leave the parts to it strewn about to let the other charge controller know what happens if they cross me.

Based on the install manual for those types of batteries, it contained a temp range for % life expectancy. If you kep it in the 26-30C range, your design life would be between 50 and 60% of the actual service life on their brochure. Sof if your DoD is always 80% you look like you should get...

How cheap you really wanna go?

Ordered new ones from Current Connected. This will give me time to reflect on how my system is and do some safety upgrades that I have yet to put into place.

Since there was no BMS or balancer, it looks like some of your cells got overcharged. I was hoping this was an April Fool's thing, but no so sure now.

I did voltage measurements on the 2S that was low. One measured 35Voc, the other 29-31Voc. I checked Isc on both and they were both around 3A. I have 6 spares available. I think I will swap the lower voltage one out for another. Will verify the voltage on it before beginning to see how this goes..

I would not recommend something like that. I melted that kind of bar with a bad connection. Try these: https://www.currentconnected.com/product/bbl46/. You need two anyways and they are the same price as two of those.

Your delta is 39/1000 of a volt. I think you did fine.

It has been a long day. Well done. Ya got me!

Then don't. I am looking for examples, things that worked well and didn't. I am seeking information from people with experiences on what they have done. I know generally what I am looking for, but hope to further expand my horizons from people who are willing to share their thoughts or...

I have an older mini split heat pump 13 seer. It pulls max 750W (6.25A) when starting up and getting going, then pulses slower during the night. 9000 BTU. Mitsu compressor. Over 5 years old now. Here is from my power meter monitor at night. I have it set to 63F as I like to sleep in cryo...

So here is how they are mounted: Nylock nuts. The metal at the top is the clips that you use for mirrors so I can adjust the height up or down as needed. The poles come with little clips for fencing so I bent it out a little more and they fit nice in some of the holes on these panels for rain...

Not fully installed into the system at that time, but assembled.

I was getting 250W 60 cell mono panels from Santan Solar for under $60. I live near them so shipping isn't an issue. Bought multiple items without issue.

I did not like the MT50 for that. I do have the USB converter for each of my SCC and use that for programming. I do have an MT50 just in case one fails for some reason. Personal preference though.

It seems to me that your voltage is still too high for the SCC to accept. Putting the resistor in series further drops the voltage to the acceptable range for the controller. Did you measure the voltage drop across the resistor when in series and then the voltage on the input terminals to see...

LFP. I know there really isn't much of a possibility, but I still wanna keep it safe should I change chemistries in the future.

From personal experience with both of those circuit breakers, both are junk and do not hold the rated amperage. For your safety and the safety of your equipment, please please please, get a good, reliable DC rated breaker.

BMS settings as follows: Overvoltage: 3.6V Overvoltage release 3.55V Pack Overvoltage 28.8V Pack Overvoltage release 28.4V Balanced turn-on voltage 3.4V Balancing precision 0.001V

1. Do you mean a 100 ohm resistor or a say 5 ohm, 100W resistor? 2. Your AC plug to your power supplies scares me. 3. When the PWM is connected to the battery and nothing else, does it turn on?

The "resistor" appears to be a solid state relay in the 4th picture. Confused me as well.

Well, wife wants no wall penetration for the offgrid setup. Also, batteries under heavy discharge in outdoors AZ will get upto 50C if I don't watch it.

This is great info. Is there a capacity you would use as cutoff for multiple batteries or is it managed by voltage of those batteries? Say one large 48V and any less is multiple batteries? I have a 100Ah one and want more capacity but cash is limited to small bonus money from work so I have...

Top balance completed and pack is assembled. Need some wire management but all looks good so far. BMS startup went off without a hitch. The parameters in it were off pretty far though so I set them to what my Overkill solar BMS settings (tighter). Startup delta was 46mA. Turned off the balancer...

Agreed. They cost a little more, little heavier, but no swelling issues.

If it was running for hours, maybe you have a loose connection. Measure resistance while the system is running from your battery terminal to the input terminal of inverter. Check both sides. I found a loose connection once on a cell like that IIRC.

Made the parameter change on both SCC.

Bought it from Santan when I started my build. https://www.santansolar.com/product/4-way-100a-busbar/