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Flippin 10mm & 1/2 inch wrench always running off🙄

Thanks for the input guys. I have a lot better understanding of overpaneling already. My conclusion: *Never exceed the max voltage input of the charge controller *Exceeding max PV input parameters (watts) is fine, but stay away from the max voltage limit, as it will shorten the life of the...

I appreciate all the help and the numbers (albeit a little confusing to me), and concern as all my testing has been with a simple multimeter and my own hand touching and feeling every connection and wire. I still have the cheapo 200amp breaker in between my battery bank and inverter, and when I...

Seems to me you would need at the very least 400-500 watts of panels, and you would always be relying on stored power to provide all the cooking/coffee (300ah, or you could get by with 200ah with staging as supervstech pointed out) hope you camp in a bright sunny area :)

Looks like mine but in my house lol.. If only charge controllers weren't so expensive...

Thanks for pointing that out :) It was a 24v 4kw. This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BGH897Q8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Same company I got my 12v 3kw inverter from that performs very well. But the 24v scared me, I felt like it was going to start a fire. It made all my lights...

Thanks y'all, that clarifies why we should use the fuse holder. I can understand now that the current would just flow through the stud instead of flowing through the fuse in a catastrophic event.. It does make me wonder though, how that little bit of plastic prevents an arc from jumping from the...

Thank you! I don't know why I was overthinking it, just some square tubing ladder racks and L-brackets should work great. lol I'd need 2 sets of those

Thanks for the feedback😊

Sorry I guess my spacing for the vertical "bussbar" got deleted upon posting

I suggest building a small outbuilding in the middle of your property to house your battery bank, charge controllers and a couple of nice inverters feeding a switch panel that branches off to each "shop" and house on its own inverter. Maybe a ground mount solar array/wind turbines over this to...

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying :)

Lol, that mobile deployment video you found must've got you thinking. I'm enjoying your brainstorming updates

Thank you for that, I was totally overlooking that aspect

My original mounting/installation was kind of less than ideal. I was still learning and experimenting, but I will be removing these and installing my new trina 545s in place of these with actual rails and clamps.

This looks like it could work but I don't see if you can use 120v ac in/out I see 30a @ 250v, does that mean I can use up to 60a @ 125v? My reason is to learn how to make myself independent with an isolated system, but have the grid there in the learning process, I suppose weaning myself of...

I just thought a little more in depth on the fuse holders and realized that the post looks like it is separated from the busbar by a very small bit of plastic.. Maybe that is the reasoning for the holder?

This makes sense being that battery studs tend to be pretty short, but couldn't you just buy longer studs? I recall another member arguing that the mrbf should be on the busbar not the battery terminal but I kind of don't see the logic there as the wire wouldn't be protected.

Albeit a little expensive, but exactly what you were looking for. I'm actually looking into to building out a new array using these style brackets. They seem robust and a quick simple way to build a structure...

Amazon talks in circles sometimes. I bought some mcb breakers from there that said for solar in the title but apparently missed the part in the item description where it said for AC😒. I had to return them and get DC rated breakers. Good to know that litime bussbars aren't actually copper tho...

What program do you use to design these? Is it for computer?

Since you are preparing for 500mph winds you might as well just mount some turbines while you are at it, effectively breaking the wind force and collecting energy at the same time. I'm only joking, I can't contribute to windforce mathematics, as I don't fully understand it. But from a carpenter...

Thank you, I really had no clue about that.

That makes sense, but that's a lot of extra contact points. But if battery A has fuse and battery B has fuse. Wouldn't that essentially be just like a fuse on both ends? A(fuse)>>bussbar<<(fuse)B

Hook it up to a solar charge controller that outputs to a 12v battery. From your battery you now have uninterrupted 12v supply

For me, that would mean buying 4 more identical charge controllers, one for each of my 8-545 watt panels along with more wiring. or another highly expensive 24v inverter. My experience was not good on a 24v system

Thank you guys for keep bringing it back around to my initial question amidst the disagreements.. So I'm thinking I have to either upgrade my wire or settle with 350ish amp fuse which (I think) will Give me around 3000w 120v To add my 2 cents to the load draw disagreement. It makes sense to...

Generally I have about 13v on my battery bank. But yeah 12.8 nominal. Good to know how hot is too hot, but I guess 130ish is normal around the fusing? I am guessing that I'm pulling around 215amps on the norm

Hi all, this is my first post. I started my solar project last year in hopes to slowly break away from my reliance on the grid. They have ripped me off one too many times, and have never made right with me on their own errors. I just had to cough up money to pay for insanely high charges that...