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I have two Renogy 175 watt arrays on my SUV and had averaged 20.3A and 20.8A for over 90 minutes today. I'm currently in south-west Manitoba and my tilt mount is still far from getting a good angle with the sun. I've also attached both my panel specs below. The controller used was a CanadaProof...

AND you can always add more components to it if you find yourself needing more power. When I started out, I thought a 50w array would power my life out here (it didn't). So I added a 200w array to the Honda... still wasn't enough. Then along came two 175w arrays... it FINALLY does the job, and I...

I have a couple of PowerQueen batteries (I've heard they're identical to the LiTime) and have found to set your CC absorption voltage to 14.1V or lower, otherwise the bms will spike up to 16V if the absorption stage is set to the recommended 14.4V. I was explained by other members this happens...

I wonder which user was the millionth poster. They should get a special screen name for that one, lol.

I wish his controllers could run that cool, but the motorhome is like a baked potato wrapped in tin-foil during the summer months (I've been in here when it's close to 38-40c). I bet the ambient temperatures and where the controllers are mounted would make a huge difference in temps while...

But... I do think we got off course from what the OP had asked lol.

They should have wires where the outer casing is either the red or black... but then having that extra inner casing with a small number showing you what voltage it's tied into. BTW I absolutely love the box build and layout! I also have a little collection of electricals to revive from the...

I would have to kindly disagree with you on this... I'm also full-time out of my SUV in Manitoba (-30c is not unusual) and I have two LiFePO4 batteries on board. If you can keep them above 10c they will perform very well. Despite the first-gen CR-V's not having any sort of insulation, my 5kw...

I've gone inverterless too (for some reason, the PowerQueen 100-Minis don't like inverters; sparks like mad even with resistors). It's setup just like the photo Dave In AZ had posted, except my positive 12V goes to a fuse block and the negative 12V goes to a small busbar. Though I would size...

I absolutely agree. When I do 'back-yard' builds for testing, I always use a small AGM battery over a LiFePO4. In case something should go wrong, a FLA/SLA will be a lot more forgiving and cheaper to replace. I call these 'learner batteries'. They are also good to have around in case a LiFePO4...

Just a quick update: we did get the Victron working! ...unfortunately, the cables are still quite loose, though we got the wires anchored to a board to restrict as much movement as possible. I still don't trust this particular device, though we're going to do some testing on smaller AGM...

I also wanted to go stealth... but I quickly came to the conclusion that standing out while at a rest area or a truck stop in order to get more hydro was well worth the trade-off lol (also, I don't think Bullwinkle would care how the CR-V looks in the wilderness). I have two systems; each one...

The Element not only has a carpet-less interior (rubber flooring would make for good safety measures with solar), but they also have split-folding picnic tables and a tailgate. That is definitely the next vehicle I'm going to convert for living.

Yes, full-time since I was 2. My family were truck drivers and I couldn't adjust to a house when I left 'home'.

Or their kids play video games all day. I mean with that much power... lol.

Hence why I use Mini 100AH LiFePO4 batteries in my already-tiny CR-V. Though for testing small projects or other devices, I would be a little hesitant to use an expensive battery. That's why I still like to have an AGM battery under 18-22AH.

I almost forgot lol... Its a Kisae DMT1230 DC/DC. While it's only a 30A model I'm interested in (couldn't find an aftermarket alternator that uses my connector for the Honda) they do go up to 50A. I'll add the link below. https://www.kisaepower.com/products/dmt1230/

Exactly! Our office trailer's MPPTs begin charging when the sky is still feintly blue; my PWMs still need an hour (or two cups of coffee) before its signal lamps begin flickering.

I like your setup; its a lot better than what I started out with. I'm jealous you were able to get that Victron installed (mine wouldn't even get a tight grip to my cables). How has your PWM controller been doing with the system so far? Some protection throughout the system is definitely a...

This is a very detailed posting and thorough; props to you on that! I don't have much knowledge on the PowerQueen products aside from their batteries, but I do see a striking resemblance with the Renogy Rover series... as many others too. The only possibility I could think of is one controller...

Yes. It's for an SUV that frequents rough roads and fields (I supply power for remote workers).

While Australia doesn't have roads made of ice, we certainly haven't had any chassis frames break. That looks nasty! Every time I get an oil change, I also get inner and outer tie rods changed, along with all four shocks just because oh where we get sent to. That's exactly what happens in the...

Way to go HighDesertOffgrid! Lol.

Believe it or not... someone has attempted this before. I don't know his exact setup specs, but he's built up multiple systems that each lead into the own power boxes. While it was godly expensive and some-what works, he was able to squeeze just over 7 weeks without needing to turn his panels...

I'm actually surprised you have a CanadaProof too (I mean, were both in Canada lol, they're just so hard to find and cost a good $99). We have tried 12, 10 and 8AWG wires on the Victron; with and without ferrules... although I read someone had used a 6AWG? I didn't think those little terminals...

I've already decided to not use the Victron. I gave mine to a co-worker who wants to 'frankenstein' its terminals. I know they are fantastic contollers, but for the insane surfaces I have to drive on (most times spent on fields than actual road), I need an insanely strong connection (the setup...

With your pump being DC, you wouldn't need an inverter unless you know for sure you would need to power an AC device. I would add a small fuse box (there are some four-slot boxes on China-zon) in case the pump should pull more than what it's rated for.

That is an amazing build! What kind of PWM are you running with and how much solar will you be using (if your using solar)?

That's a neat little device. I also like how it has outlets used in different countries, too. You may be on to something here JohnD0h, good find! So I'm assuming you would need to plug in a regular charger from that to your batteries for getting them charged up? I'd think a 25A charger would...