Recent content by HRTKD

I suppose it depends on who you ask, but when I started using ferrules the guideline was to have the wire sticking out of the ferrule a small amount. My reference for this was a White Paper by Weidmuller in PDF format. I don't recall where I found it but I have a local copy. This web page on...

I think the BMS messages are trying to tell you that you a cell imbalance. One of the cells is hitting a voltage that is higher than the rest of the cells. The BMS needs time to balance the cells (assuming it can balance). With the 56.8 volt setting the cells should have seen no more than...

I have that same Multiplus. I don't think I've ever plugged it into a shore power GFCI outlet. Just about everything else though. If I don't adjust the AC IN Amps (like you noted that you did) when connected to a 15 amp outlet it WILL trip the breaker on that shore power circuit. As...

Bifacial panels that are considered ground deployable are likely a waste of money. They require a reflective surface 1 meter below them.

There are quite a few threads on optimal settings for LiFePO4. I use 14.4/13.6 when I'm actively using the camper. Double those numbers for a 24 volt system. I would use just the Multiplus for charging. If you do use the standalone charger, the Multiplus will use the incoming AC power to...

Given the likelihood of shading, I would go with a set of portable (non-attached) panels that you can deploy on the ground far enough away from the trailer to avoid shading. Panels that are affixed to the trailer may not be able to tilt to maximize sun exposure. With ground deployed panels you...

I haven't seen a formula, but there's probably one out there. In one of the threads that discusses why you don't charge LiFePO4 below 32°F there was a graph posted that showed decreasing amps the closer the temperature got down to 32°F. As I recall, it was a curve, not a straight line. But...

No. The LiFePO4 battery should be charged with fewer amps the closer the temperature gets to 32°F. FLA temperature compensation increases the voltage the colder it gets. It's amps versus volts, but you don't want to use temperature compensation with a LiFePO4.

Since the BMS monitoring cable is attached on top of the bus bar and not attached to the cell terminal, you should see erratic cell voltages. Temperature issues would also be possible due to the loose connection. For the first issue, checking the BMS log would be one way to detect it. For the...

You could sell it here in the Marketplace: https://diysolarforum.com/categories/diy-solar-marketplace-sell-your-own-stuff.38/ As long as this is a private (non-commercial) sale, you're good. I have purchased solar panels from Craig's List.

In your first picture, the smaller red wires are going to your three batteries, correct? Is the very small cable on stud #2 (from the left) between the big cable lug and the bus bar? It's hard to tell from the picture and I can't zoom in on it enough. If so, put the big cable directly against...

I used MC4 connectors from TEMCo Industrial. No problems connecting to the existing MC4 connectors on two different brands of panels that I use. Are the three strings going to be fused between each string, either before the port or after the port? I think I would tend to go 3s2p to avoid the...

The upgrade to 48 volt would likely require a change of more equipment than you might think. A number of components that are fine for 24 volt are not rated for 48 volt, which lives most of its life well above 48 volts.

Take a look at my Board Build thread. That or any of the suitcase or milk crate builds would work for you. The way I did my board build, it works with just about any 12v battery/configuration and any PV you want to connect. The Victron inverter is programmable with the attached Bluetooth...

Instead of a fan blowing on the horses, what about a fan the evacuates air out the roof? https://www.amazon.com/Broan-345CSOBK-Powered-Ventilator-28-Watt/dp/B00BY2WNYO I have two of these on the roof of my house to evacuate air out of the attic. Mine are similar, same brand, but not the same...