here is what you need to know about conspiracy theorists, they don't exist
"a hypothesis is constructed before any applicable research has been done. A theory, on the other hand, is supported by evidence"
what we really have are conspiracy hypothesists
i wish all the sales people attempting to sell me solar would look up before knocking on my door. every time they show up i just stand there pointing up until they go away
the OP was about solar vs gas geny costs. gas generator produces about 4-7 kwh per gallon, smaller gens are less efficient. the last pic i saw showed they had 1200 watts of solar, depending on location that will yield an average of 6-6.6 kwh per day so likely more than what one gallon will...
while yes, we do need more info on this project, based on what they wrote we can't assume they meant they wanted it fully charged in 1-4 hours, it could be that they will only be charging it from solar for 1-4 hours a day.
as a possible starting point you can look at my "build" thread in my signature below, however, note it is very incomplete and very disorganized and needs to be updated
i'm planning on an electric only camper van that will only be charged by solar or plugging into the grid. i'm looking at...
1.9 kW is the max solar you can reasonably get out of a car or even a van before you need to have some kind of fold out/tilting system for additional solar
update, i think i found solution. since my plan all along was to string together 12v led strips for a total of 48v, i could wire the switch in the middle so that it will be at 24v. that would allow me to use common off the shelf [aka amazon] switches since many are rated at 24v usually at 5 amp.
i assume your thermostat is part of the fridge, however, do you know if they make mechanical independent thermostats that also use no or little power? i did a quick search and i'm wondering about this one, or this one
a "small" system could be either a ecoflow or bluetti dual setup with their respective split phase adapters, you could get up to 24kwh of charging that way and it would be modular. the bluetti is a little better here because it can power 120v and 240v simultaneously
for a bigger system you...
i would argue that even vanlife should be 48v. unless you don't have AC and are doing all of your cooking/heating with gas you will need a robust power system. plus gas is messy and dangerous. a bare minimum all electric system can be done with with 12v but just barely. if you want a robust...
if there are more options that would make my life easier i've been looking at different ways to convert 120VAC input from the grid into 240VAC to feed into my two multipluses paired for split phase. my knowledge of the setup came from currentconnected
Current Connected LLC...
i only know tiny amount here and i'm hoping to find a complete list of idle and power saving watt use for all units and "gotchas" for example, the growatt 3000 says: "Power saving function will be automatically disabled when in parallel operation." this might be standard i don't know? so for...
yep, i said smaller generators are less efficient, which the OP is using. a larger generator will be a slightly different story but even with your generator solar will still pay for it self in a few years in gas costs alone not to mention the price of the generator, the hassle of dealing with...
dirty panels are not the end of the world, in fact there as been some studies on the refracting effect of dust when the panels are not in optional orientation [ie like on a vehicle]
i had high hopes i even got the prime kickstarter bid, alas, on that page is:
"Can F3800 run 240V output and be charged simultaneously?
No, it cannot power 240V during recharging. The recharge voltage is 120V, so it can only bypass 120V power to the loads."
they have an unusual pattern of two and three rows. maybe the two and three groupings are separate so that a shadow does not affect the whole panel? however, even if that is true it looks like someone wanted to be 'pretty' by alternating the two and three thus ruining it
these generally have a set temperature and a set threshold, you also need to make sure you get NC [normally closed] for colder than room temp and a NO [normally open] for warmer than room temp. that 5C NC will close around 0C and open when it is warmer than 5C, if you wanted the batteries to be...
you might want to consider pairing two 120VAC victrons for split phase 120/240. this is my plan for my EV RV. not only are the victrons more efficient but the powerassist option will give you faster charging options. for example, i'm looking at two 120 VAC multiplus II 48/3000/35-50, which...
here is a sketch up on a high roof extended ford transit with four 250 watt newpowa. four of them are 54.72" wide and 137.8" long. i have a similar setup with five bougeRV 9BB 200 watt at 54.72 and 139. more info in my signature. note: ignore the other panels on the sides
thanks, figured it would work i was just a little taken aback when i started digging into low amp 48 volt switches and fuses and found next to none. even the old school glass fuses rated up to 250v are somewhat useless if are hoping to find a fuse holder that states it is rated above 32v. the...
initially i thought i would use a ensemble system like yours, however, lately i've been leaning more and more towards a an all-in-one system, can i you shed some more light on why you decided not to use an all-in-one?
this reminds me of tablets/e-readers with cell phone connection. for the past 25+ years we have had hand held devices, some even the same size as cell phones, most more powerful than cell phones with a cell phone connection but yet we can't use them as a cell phone? it is not a lack of tech
not quite, a stack-able single phase 120vac unit can take 120vac input from the grid and output 120vac and usually two such units can take 240vac from the grid and output 120 and 240 vac at the same time. so i don't see why it would not relatively easy for two stacked units to also accept...