They were right if they meant that if you put too many panels in series and go above the open current voltage your mppt can handle, you’d fry it. But going over amps from panels in parallel is not a problem
If your inverter puts out a max of 600w then you only need 12v. Actually, if you already have your inverter, then it's decided for you: Use whatever voltage that inverter is (I'm guessing it's 12v if it's 600w)
also, you are confusing "watts" with "watt hours". watts is a measure of power at a...
definitely the fan noise. Sometimes I joke that maybe I'm borderline autistic because any white noises drive me nuts.
also, the increased complexity of a 24v system. by the time I had to buy a 24v to 12v buck converter and stuff, it probably didn't save me any money. And I lose some efficiency...
ya I did basically the same thing. although I also got this 24v to 12v buck converter to run the 12v stuff and I have the breaker for the converter turned off. I did this because I didn't like hearing the noise of the fans when I just needed 12v stuff. by using that 24-to-12 converter I can run...
yep, like @sunshine_eggo says, one of your two batteries is hitting it's low voltage cutoff protection.
when you said:
what charger did you use? was it something that you can verify is charging at 14.4-14.6v? because if it is a charger made for lead acid batteries (like car battery chargers)...
I am in a very similar boat. already have 2x LiTime 12v 100ah that I am putting in series to make a 24v pack. they don't have built in low temp sensor. I also went with a MPP pip-2024lv-mk AIO (https://watts247.com/product/pip-2024lv-mk/) , and that doesn't have a temp sensor either so what I...
I'll chime in to say that I just got done with a project where I put a 24v system in my 24ft travel trailer. I mainly went 24v because I saw this MPP pip-2024lv-mk and thought it would be a good deal and cheaper and simpler than buying all the MPPT, charger, and inverter separately. so I started...
...If I did that, I'd still want the inverter hooked up where the main shore power comes in so it could power all my 120v circuits so I'd use a manual transfer switch like this to replace the automatic transfer switch that the all in one unit has
that is correct. that's a lot of amps at 12 volts. that's why it makes sense to up your system voltage to 48v (or at the very least 24 v) at that kind of wattage. then you don't need such beefy and large charge controllers, inverter, and wires
I am wiring up an MPP PIP 2024 LV-MK All-in-One unit in my Surveyor Legend Travel trailer. I am planning on diverting the AC power in from shore power directly into the all-in-one and then connecting the output of the all-in-one into where the shore power came into the main AC breaker box of the...
I'm have the same and am curious to see if anyone has any answers for you. one specific thing that I have wondered is what if I bought just 1 LiTime with low temp protection and put that in series with another liTime without it? would the low temp protection on the one protect both in series?
Perfect. Exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Will use seperate 10/2 with ground wires. Thank you!
I took this picture of the ac input circuit breaker. It says 40A. Does that mean anything to you? Or do I need to take the cover off the main part of the unit to see something else?
just as a datapoint, not so much as a reccomendation:
I have a MPP Solar PIP-2024LV-MK 24V System and so far it works pretty decent. but it is pretty loud to have in my travel trailer. I would not choose it again if I was picking something to be in the travel trailer so close to me.
I am...
just put your panels 2s2p (as in, 2 sets of 2 panels in series joined with a Y connector). the max current on them of 5.8amps is not that high and as long as you check to make sure the wire size can handle that current, you should be fine.
eg: google "max ampacity <put the size of your wire...
no, it is 200 watt hours used. Because when you are talking about the amount of energy used over a period of time, the unit is watt hours
no, it is 800 watt hours used.
you're still getting watts and watt hours confused. I'd google https://www.google.com/search?q=watts+vs+watt+hours
yes, you need to either add some kind of low temp protection or heating if you're going to charge them below freezing.
the simplest thing to do, if you got it from amazon and are still within the return window, would be to take it back and get the one with low temp protection.
if you can't do...
I have an existing enphase system on my roof. I net meter with the POCO 1:1. We use more power now than we used to. I'd like to maybe DIY add solar capacity to it.
The existing panels are above the living part of my roof. I was thinking of maybe trying to add panels myself on top of my garage's...
If you're concerned about the low temp protection on the batteries, you could also add a second low temp protection on the PV wire in to the battery. Then you'd have 2 switches that have to be on in order for the battery to charge. so 2 different thermostats have to think it is above freezing...
thanks for the reply!
yeah, that's why I was thinking: if I'm not going to run into problems from POCO for adding to an existing system, that would be the easiest way to add solar to my house. My next questions if I go down this route will be the technical stuff like "how do I get them talking...