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Hi all, I am currently looking for an inverter to power my PC and server. Server on 24/7, PC on 10~ hrs/day during the week. Server is <100W and PC is <600W. Want to size up to something like a 2kw as I might add more equipment in the future. Anyway, not to derail, I've found this thread very...

Not saying the cables were legit or trustable but a cables awg ampacity is not all about copper cross section area. The copper will to all intents and purposes never melt, it will just get very hot. What melts and starts fires is the insulation so very good quality insulation can improve a...

Hi all, Just wanted to show off my battery as I'm quite proud of how neat it's turned out while also double checking that I haven't messed anything up as its my first go. It consists of 8x 280ah Eve B-grade cells, about £950. Bought from fogstar.co.uk they came capacity tested, batched and...

I'd be wary of downsizing your inverter, you're just bringing forward the point in time when you'll inevitably want to upgrade it to add more devices to it. I went 2kw and already wish I'd gone for 3kw, not for any particular reason but I know someday I'll want to drive more with it.

It sounds like the seller is legit and the cells should be fine then. I'm in the UK (from Ireland ? ) and bought mine off fogstar.co.uk, they might deliver to Ireland if you need a different supplier in the future for whatever reason. EVE are good cells, I also have their 280ah ones for a 24V...

You can use an esp32 or esp8266 to connect to the bms if it has uart. Very straightforward to set up. I have esphome connected to home assistant but you can just get them to act as their own web server so you can look at them anytime you're on your network. https://github.com/syssi/esphome-jbd-bms

I would say the possibility of a lightning strike is quite low, there are taller houses and trees nearby that would take the hit first so protecting from a nearby strike would be enough. Other than that I just want to make sure everything is grounded correctly. It's worth saying I am in the UK...

Can your inverter operate at 24V? If so finding a SCC that can handle 2400W will be feasible, for example Epever have 100A models with either 150 Voc or 200 Voc input. I just bought the 150V model for a similar panel arrangement. You'll want to put them in 3S2P which would result in 123.6 Voc...

For that low current you could get away with 10 awg cable. You could use 8 awg to reduce voltage loss but probably not worth it. https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator

Don't fall into the Renogy = quality trap. They just provide an easy "plug and play" setup because everything is 12V but you can get better quality for cheaper with a bit more research. For example you can get a couple of any brand 300w panels and plug them into a 100v capable SCC so long as...

Only if your solar panel voltage is the correct voltage to charge the battery at, for a 400V battery system your panels would need to provide around 415V atleast to charge the battery pack. Not to mention what that might do to your EVs BMS.

OK, so there are some, but most do not. Boosting voltage is possible of course but again more circuitry, and you'll struggle to find any consumer grade 400v Mppt.

A solar setup powerful enough to charge an eV is not a simple build. You would need to spend a lot of money and have a lot of knowledge to do it. I cannot recommend it with your lack of experience in this area. The best thing you could do is ask your landlord for permission to install an...

https://www.itstechnologies.shop/ worked great for me, was the cheapest around and good selection. I went with: 415W JA Solar Mono PERC Half-Cell MBB Black Frame Solar Panel £104 + vat × 6 New and I've seen them get good charge even though they are poorly angled (shed roof sadly).

If you've bought the renogy charge controller already and can't easily return it then I wouldn't be too concerned, just stick with it, it's likely to work fine for your situation. If you haven't then I'd recommend looking at Epever for the best budget option or victron for high quality.

Your BMS should be enough if correctly configured. Your inverter should also be configured to ensure it never drains the battery to the shutoff voltage of the BMS. The shunt on its own is only for information and is not necessary.

It's fine to have slightly larger breakers so long as the cable is specced for the amps. And the current can be different between panels and mppt and mppt to battery. Not sure where you got that idea, if voltage goes down current goes up. It's a 40a mppt so 50a breaker is reasonable.

Can you step up through your cells with the multimeter to see where the problem is? Negative Cell #1 - > pos #1, 3.3v (presumably), then neg #1 to pos #2, should be 6.6v. Does neg #1 to pos #3 also read 6.6v? It should be 9.9v.

You can build your own combiner box pretty cheaply and easily. Much cheaper than buying it prebuilt, here's one I put together in about an hour. It's only 2P but you can just add more fuse holders and adjust the breaker size to required.

Keep it in the chicken coop? You have a bunch of winged hot water bottles running around. It won't get below freezing in there.

SCC = Solar Charge Controller, charges the battery from solar panels. Charger = AC to DC Charger, charges the battery from the mains. As a forum tip it's best to use the reply button which will quote someone's post (you can cut it down to the section you're responding to) and also notify the...

Will is using 4 Awg for a smaller inverter. 2 2 awg cable should be plenty, you can double the ampacity of them so even 2x 4awg would work but extra headroom is always nice.

You can also consider getting a separate SCC like the 100A Epever I mentioned which can charge 2400W into a 24V battery. You'll just also need to get a 24V inverter. That's unlikely to be cheaper than an AIO but it'll have lower standby power usage (some AIO have up to 60w usage) and will be...

30p/kWh is pretty damn good. My DIY battery worked out at 20p and I can definitely see the benefit of premade and server rack form factor for just 10p/kWh more.

A split phase 240v inverter will give you two lives and a neutral. Between each of the lives and neutral is 120v so you would put your 120v loads on one or other of the legs, balanced so the usage close between the two. Then for 240vac you use the difference between the two lives. I believe US...

You have repeatedly ignored all actual answers to your question and requests for more info so we can help you properly. You most likely do not need anything more than a 30A Y split. Give us the spec for your panels. The fact that that wasn't the first information you gave us proves you do not...

2Awg should be fine for a 6ft 63A max.

You could get a Din rail fuse holder and a 10A fuse. The fuses are standard sizes and cheap to replace. You don't need anything too expensive for this use. I'd probably just use a breaker though, Tomzn also gets recommended here a bit so I went with them as I could get them on ebay. At the end...

I used the esp8266 nodemcu board. Not sure which esp32 devkit board is best.

Your landlord won't let you put in one external socket but he's happy for you to mount 10 square meters of solar panels? That's a bit mad. To roughly cost it up for you you'd be looking at: Battery: €2,000 Solar Panels: €1,000 Solar Charge Controller: €500 Inverter: €1,000 Misc. Cables etc...