Schematic looks good to me, (i have similar plans for a 48v RV system) i would only ask if the frames of the solar panel array needs an earth/chassis grounding?
Note: i'm a newbie just learning, so just picking up info as i go.
In my (RV) VW Crafter handbook, the recommended battery appears to be 12v 70AH 340A SLA
Installed currently is a 90AH 750A battery, which has obviously been installed by previous owner. (Functions fine)
I know zero about batteries, but presume there are no issues(alternator etc?), when i go to...
The main thing about a recirculating shower (imo) is that it is used to cleanse the sweat off, rather than a 'full' shower, thus your use of soaps/gells needs to be minimal or else you are rinsing yourself in soapy water. It really depends on your required needs and to a larger extent, who the...
I didnt think these 5A balancers work, unless you had really bad cells. It is my understanding, that you only get 1A balancing if the cells differ by 100mV. Lets face it, most of us are having a fit :ROFLMAO: if our cells drift past 20mV in difference. To get the full 5A active, your cells need...
One more unrelated/semi-related question. Would it be correct to say that grounding/earthing in the AC sense of the term (unlike fusing) is a safety feature intended to protect living things, not to protect the system itself or prevent fire or damage?
AC 'Grounding' is necessary first for life...
oh ok, just when i re read it, i thought you were referring to a 12v pack. In theory a 3.2v 280Ah cell which can take a 1C charge rate @preferably 3.65v charge rate, even if reducing to the recommended 0.5C charge rate, would indicate that ideally if setting the power supply to 3.65v then...
So, with all that said, for a RV system with a 48V battery bank and occasional connection to the grid through a campsite pedestal, does this look correct?
Im not an electrical or electronics type of guy, but to the uninitiated, cell balancers appear to be over complicated. For example, in a 48v 200Ah battery pack with say 57.6v & 83A available from the (5kv) cc, why not have a system whereby every cell is connected by two balancer (100A) charging...
On a 48v setup, if you compare a 100Ah cell to a 400Ah, the 1C charge/discharge rate is 100A and 400A respectively. If the solar input going through the SCC is only 1200W, and thus a maximum of around 25A charging, so long as you provide the 3.65v , then are there any downsides to charging the...
If a solar panel array is 'powered up' in full sun but not connected to any load, are they damaged in any way?
Is the energy generated, dissappated through a diode or such, or does no energy actually flow, unless connected to a load. Just trying to understand how they function.
In the setup's below, which would function best for longevity or which would be a strict no-no for reasons given.
(Just experimenting with idea's at present)
If it were me, i would probably use a mix of solar collectors rather than all PV. The garage could have a frame added on its northern side and the whole length covered in an evacuated tube array(shouldn't be a massive weight), which could provide your year round domestic hot water. An air source...
Thanks electric. Looking at a 48V bank, of 400Ah(19.2kW) i had thought i'd read it somewhere that you did not want to go above 200Ah cells in a RV due to structural integrity within the cell, but Ghostwriter kinda dispelled that myth earlier in another conversation.
@Steve_S
With regards to the busbars supplied with the xuba 280Ah cells, i believe they are rated for 300A. In my 24V system they are only going to see a working maximum of 125A continuous(250A peak for a few seconds surge loads) but day to day, much lower values that this. I know we are meant...
Steve,
My great disadvantage is that i have plenty of ideas, but no electrical background, so thinking from a position of ignorance. Further to this, it is all well and good to figure out something just now, but what happens in three years time if something breaks...and you have forgotten a lot...
Yes, i'm still contemplating doing that myself. In my situation, it will probably come down to whether i can adapt the BMV to synchronise at say a 3.45v/cell charge up. Originally, it was set at 280Ah and a full charge to 3.55v approx, but i'm wondering if i can amend the settings such that, for...
Yeah from my perspective, these terminals have a basic design flaw. Even if the terminal hole was 10mm deep, i doubt we would even see a fraction of the number of stripped threads reported on this forum. At 6mm deep and judging by the top of the cell hole which is chamfered, you will be lucky to...
When i looked at the datasheet, i read it somewhat differently from yourself. The thickness (30% SOC) figure at 71.5mm. The thickness (100% SOC) figure @ 72mm = 0.5mm difference due to state of charge. You also get +/- 1mm on the accuracy of the cell thickness measurement due to tolerances, not...
Didnt realise the charger would shut off above the 115V. I had thought that the MPPT would simply not function as a tracking operation, but you would still charge at 115V and ignore the excess.....that's a lesson learnt for me. Thanks for that nugget. ;-)
So how would you connect it up then smooth joey?
I had assumed the internal components of the inverter charger would have that handled?
In a RV that is never connected to shore/grid power, how does the inverter handle a fault on the AC output side?
Hi folks, id be interested in opinions on connecting the output from a vehicle alternator to the genset/utility input terminals on a 'All-in-one' charge controller. (240v UK shore power settings when connected to grid)
Looking for the safest way to protect the alternator charging system, but...