Recent content by TacomaJoe

UPDATE: I don't know how it does it but we dropped the battery into his car on Friday and it does in fact, start the car. Only thing that I can think of is that the BMS isn't controlling discharge current (no MOSFETs?). Didn't have my clamp meter so I don't have any numbers.

I had just stumbled on this one. https://www.amazon.com/Elefast-Bluetooth-Temperature-Protection-31/dp/B0D1P9C29V Great price with shipping, bluetooth. The tear down video looked good.

So one 12v battery is 12.8v x 200amps (continuous rating) would be 2560 watts. That is correct. Now put two in parallel and you have 12.8V X 400A for 5120W. Take the same two in series and your bank is 25.6V x 200A for the same 5120W. Same watts whether in series or parallel. With that said...

In 4S the current doesn't divide. If the inverter needs 200A, that current will be the same in each battery. I have a 12V system with my batteries in parallel and in my installation, the current does divide between the batteries. On the battery negative post, only the shunt should be connected...

You may need to get the battery charged up a little before the MPPT can start doing its thing.

There is a meter specific to test ground rod resistance. I was thinking there was wording in the code that the ground should be 25 ohms or less and if not you need to drive another rod. Cheaper to install two rods all the time rather than the cost of a tester.

I don't see capacity in those numbers unless there was no load on the battery. At 28.41V I'd call it charged and it looks like solar made 2.90kWh. The 6.1A of current makes me wonder where it is going if the battery is charged. I'll guess a nominal battery capacity of 2.56kWh so it would look...

I think what's happening is that one of the batteries hits a high voltage (cell or battery) and opens the charging MOSFETs. The inverter will complete a series circuit. Batt1, Batt2, Batt3, Batt4, Inverter and back to Batt1. The 36V reading is actually the sum of the 3 batteries that didn't cut...

Give the Overkill Solar app a try. It allows access to the functions.

In addition to the inconvenience of flip/flopping the connections, you will not have a 12V source during the time that they are wired for 24V charging. I agree with the get another solar controller to use the panels.

I ran my bank down and turned on the charging overnight. This morning my AiLi shunt shows 766.4Ah and my LIONTRON app shows 766.82Ah (which does in fact equal the sum of the Ah reported by the 3 BMSs). In my trailer I have about a 1A parasitic draw and I do see drift between the shunt reading...

The converter in my trailer sits at 3.40 per cell (12V system). I tweaked balancing to start at 3.30. It's passive JBD so pretty slow balance. I call it pretty darn full. If I bump the voltage up, I'll see a runner so I keep it at 3.40.

I'm curious if anyone knows about the Elfhub. https://www.amazon.com/Elfhub-Bluetooth-LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery/dp/B0CNVFZ933

I recall an issue with Ampere Time batteries (before they changed the name to LiTime) but don't recall specifics. I did find this video: Could be some issues have followed the rebrand.

My BMS has programable settings for battery voltage and cell voltage. At the battery level (sum of 4 cells) 14.6V is the cutout and 14.0V is the release. At the cell level 3.650V is the cutout and 3.500V is the release. So if one of my cells hits 3.65V the BMS will cutout until the cell...