UPDATED: Issue #1: neutral-ground bonding, we have had these units ship under the American version, The PCB is not the same, some others here show removing the screw bond, but then find that the board still has a conductor trace that leaks to ground. This is why you need to buy these from an...
If you're using a growatt 5000es (European model that I don't use in my videos) with an auto transformer, you need to watch this video. The output of the inverter bonds the ground and neutral, which is designed for use with European grid. Conversely, American grid uses center tap transformer to...
It's up and running but I still need to remove the factory installed ground and negative on the kholer generator, just not sure which is the right wire.
.I was thinking of using a NC contactor on the ground and negative bonding in the main panel, and run a 120v to the contactor which will open when the generator is running, so the generator becomes the negative and ground bonding, only when it runs.
But I'm I think I'm over complicating the system and it may not be right way, one issue I see is the inverter may not take the generator power at the time it's running.
No, I have not hooked the generator up, yet. I am still just making sure all my circuits are happy. I am testing my Daly BMS in US2 battery option. Inverter finally accepted US2 mode,Li and BMS. The first time inverter wanted to go Li mode. I can not use that mode it will over charge my lifpo4 batteries. Second time it was US2 and sla battery.
Based on the confusion I see in many, if not all of the answers, this sounds like the least complicated solution when using a generator. The components simply do their jobs without concerns of conflict. This gives the batteries a chance to smooth out some of the ripple in the waveform that might have been introduced by hooking the genset directly to the inverter. I would go this route if you cannot come up with an actual 48-volt DC generator.