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Blue Sea T-Class fuse on sale

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wsaharem

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I just bought a bunch of these from overstock.com affiliate. Price was $15.95

envyensembleemporium.shop/products/blue-sea-systems-5119-class-t-fuse-051198?currency=USD&variant_sku_code=5601903-0-0-0-0-0-0&msclkid=c9e674219a0c127e46d5121252e47b90
 

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Yeah, there's a lot of fake fuses out there. Not sure I'd be buying any life-safety critical components on Overstock.

Or AliExpress or Alibaba or Temu or Ebay.

Only buy: Littelfuse, Eaton, Bussman, or similar top-line fuses from legitimate electronic or marine retailers. Amazon is OK if you buy from the official store.

Watch this:
 
So far I haven't seen anyone actually come up with a class T that was fake. I've had someone flat out state in a post there are no fakes of these.

Somehow I think anything that costs this much for a small item would be faked.

I did see a youtube video where someone showed breaking apart a failed class J that didn't have any of the sand material inside it and was only a single thick conductor in the middle verse the multiple ones like are present in the class T.

Note - the only real difference between the class T and class J is that the class J is a slo-blow style fuse verse fast blow.

When I was on the emporium website the Class T were 300amp for $15.95. They looked like new-oldstock.

And there was a thread a week or so back where someone got class T in holders for $40 each. New old-stock from a solar installer that went bust is what we finally found out.
 
robbob2112 said:
So far I haven't seen anyone actually come up with a class T that was fake. I've had someone flat out state in a post there are no fakes of these.

Somehow I think anything that costs this much for a small item would be faked.
Click to expand...
I have zero doubt that it's only a matter of time.

But even if they're not fake, how to does one know they're not factory rejects, seconds, returns, anything. Most of us do not have the equipment to test these.

I am king of "cost efficiency", but there are areas we should not cut corners. Fuses are the top of that list.
 
chicagoandy said:
I have zero doubt that it's only a matter of time.

But even if they're not fake, how to does one know they're not factory rejects, seconds, returns, anything. Most of us do not have the equipment to test these.

I am king of "cost efficiency", but there are areas we should not cut corners. Fuses are the top of that list.
Click to expand...
oh,

btw - the fuses I saw at the super cheap price were no-name bare fuses. They were not in packaging so not blue sea. The mfg was not on the side facing the camera


And the real deal doesn't have to be expensive if you google for it --- seems like some websites have one version cheap and the rest expensive. i.e. $30 verse $70 on another website.
 
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robbob2112 said:
So far I haven't seen anyone actually come up with a class T that was fake. I've had someone flat out state in a post there are no fakes of these.
Click to expand...
I personally highly doubt there are fakes out there. It's the obscurity of the product. The tooling to set up production of a convincing fake is not cheap, and the potential sales volume is so low. These things are primarily sold through industrial channels that would be hard to get fakes into. Distributors that order direct from manufacturers and customers who order from those distributors. DIYers shopping willy nilly online a tiny tiny market. And it's not like there's cheap generic Class T's to just put a counterfeit label on either, the only pre existing manufacturing is the legit ones.

As opposed to like an Eaton 15 amp BR style AC breaker. That's something I'd watch out for fakes on. That's a market size more worth it for a serious counterfeiter to target.
 
chicagoandy said:
I have zero doubt that it's only a matter of time.

But even if they're not fake, how to does one know they're not factory rejects, seconds, returns, anything. Most of us do not have the equipment to test these.

I am king of "cost efficiency", but there are areas we should not cut corners. Fuses are the top of that list.
Click to expand...
42OhmsPA said:
Damn I am really really tempted to gamble but my senses say don't do it.
View attachment 212922

It's not worth it for a critical item.
Click to expand...
Yeah, and you see the attraction of buying a "real" Blue Sea t-Class at $16 <sigh>. I was searching for better pricing and google or duck-duck-go send me over the cliff to the fake overstock site. Pretty sure it was a scam since zero email confirmation. Fortunately I used an Apple Card and was able to quickly switch the card number yet the b-tards have all my other info. uggggg.
 
hwy17 said:
I personally highly doubt there are fakes out there. It's the obscurity of the product. The tooling to set up production of a convincing fake is not cheap, and the potential sales volume is so low. These things are primarily sold through industrial channels that would be hard to get fakes into. Distributors that order direct from manufacturers and customers who order from those distributors. DIYers shopping willy nilly online a tiny tiny market. And it's not like there's cheap generic Class T's to just put a counterfeit label on either, the only pre existing manufacturing is the legit ones.

As opposed to like an Eaton 15 amp BR style AC breaker. That's something I'd watch out for fakes on. That's a market size more worth it for a serious counterfeiter to target.
Click to expand...


The most faked breaker in America is the Square D homeline 15amp
 
I would assume that factory rejects would be intentionally damaged or rendered unusable so that it cannot be sold on the gray market. If factory rejects some how ends up being sold, it could damage the brand's reputation.

As for counterfeit ones, well, anything is possible with those.
 
JWLV said:
I would assume that factory rejects would be intentionally damaged or rendered unusable so that it cannot be sold on the gray market. If factory rejects some how ends up being sold, it could damage the brand's reputation.
Click to expand...
Yup, I would trust them to destroy them as well. I don't even think this are made in china, probably mexico or something, but mine is buried in a box I can't fit my head into to check.
 
Just noticed that the top level domain for that site is a .shop -- I don't know any reputable retailer that uses a .shop domain.
If they're in fact Overstock and use the Overstock logo prominently on their site, why is the domain something else? I know many companies do have subsidiaries, but they when they do they use the subsidiary name instead of the main company's name in all cases.
 
The fake breakers have been around for at least 30 years. When I worked at Home Depot going to college we had a card on how to spot a fake at the returns desk. It was big enough a problem that Square D gave us new cards periodically with updated info.
 
JWLV said:
Just noticed that the top level domain for that site is a .shop -- I don't know any reputable retailer that uses a .shop domain.
If they're in fact Overstock and use the Overstock logo prominently on their site, why is the domain something else? I know many companies do have subsidiaries, but they when they do they use the subsidiary name instead of the main company's name in all cases.
Click to expand...
ha ha, yeah, you got a fake I think
 
I would assume that factory rejects would be intentionally damaged or rendered unusable so that it cannot be sold on the gray market. If factory rejects some how ends up being sold, it could damage the brand's reputation.
Click to expand...
That's a lot of assumptions to trust your house on.

To save how much money? How many fuses have you bought?

Y'all can do what you like, I'll stick with the reputable sources. Fake fuses are a thing, they have fooled distributors and retailers, they can fool you too. Grey market is also a thing, and you do take your chances.
 
chicagoandy said:
That's a lot of assumptions to trust your house on.

To save how much money? How many fuses have you bought?

Y'all can do what you like, I'll stick with the reputable sources. Fake fuses are a thing, they have fooled distributors and retailers, they can fool you too. Grey market is also a thing, and you do take your chances.
Click to expand...
Well I buy BlueSea breakers and Mega Fuses, so not cutting corners on safety. Except maybe this time???? <sigh>. And I “was” buying a BlueSea Class T, so not intentionally cutting corners on quality stuff.

When buying fuses I always buy extra because they are once and done. So I was buying 4. I already have mega fuses at the busbar, but wanted to add one more safety fast blow level right at the battery.

You can criticize on the stupidity of buying from that site, but not for looking for a quality fuse at a good price.
 
wsaharem said:
Well I buy BlueSea breakers and Mega Fuses, so not cutting corners on safety. Except maybe this time???? <sigh>. And I “was” buying a BlueSea Class T, so not intentionally cutting corners on quality stuff.

When buying fuses I always buy extra because they are once and done. So I was buying 4. I already have mega fuses at the busbar, but wanted to add one more safety fast blow level right at the battery.

You can criticize on the stupidity of buying from that site, but not for looking for a quality fuse at a good price.
Click to expand...


IMO mega fuses have no place anywhere in any of this. As in the latest post in up in smoke, I am convinced they played a part in ignition.

I know Victor recommeds them, but even they are putting out class T now.

In particular they have no place in parallel battery circuits. I might consider using them in a side power circuit to a DC device. They are basically an automotive fuse.
 
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