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diy solar

Is my set up safe?

Joey, if you could indicate the wire sizing for the inverter to battery (say 600mm length) i'd be grateful. I was thinking of using 600A welding cable, but wasn't sure of the continuous use rating? I dont expect to draw anywhere near that current, but i'd rather spend a bit extra on wiring than be unsure. Thanks
I believe, Victron specs wire and fuse size in the manual.
Apart from wire size you need to pay attention to insulation temperature rating.
 
The main thing about a recirculating shower (imo) is that it is used to cleanse the sweat off, rather than a 'full' shower, thus your use of soaps/gells needs to be minimal or else you are rinsing yourself in soapy water. It really depends on your required needs and to a larger extent, who the occupants of the RV are.
 
Joey, if you could indicate the wire sizing for the inverter to battery (say 600mm length) i'd be grateful. I was thinking of using 600A welding cable, but wasn't sure of the continuous use rating? I dont expect to draw anywhere near that current, but i'd rather spend a bit extra on wiring than be unsure. Thanks
Why not update your drawing with all the wire sizes.
You have speced over current protection so why not wire.
If its a mobile application you want fine stranded wire.
If its stationary you don't have to use fine stranded wire.
I suggest pure copper with insulation rated to 105 Celcius.
In North America its measured in American wire guage up to 4/0 and kcmil beyond.
The rest of the world uses square milli-meters.
 
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Assuming this is the right model: "MultiPlus 12 | 3000 | 120 - 16 | 230/240"

Screenshot_2020-10-09 Manual - Manual-MultiPlus-3k-230V-16A-50A-(firmware-xxxx4xx)-EN-NL-FR-DE...png
 
You should have the disconnect between the panels and the solar charge controller.
You don't need one on the system side of the solar charge controller.
You don't need them in front of the inverters.
I assume you can turn them off
you should put a disconnect between the positive busbar and the battery.
Oh and a 300 mrbf fuse on each battery postive terminal.
 
You should have the disconnect between the panels and the solar charge controller.
You don't need them in front of the inverters.
I assume you can turn them off
you should put a disconnect between the positive busbar and the battery.
Joey...that really is much appreciated. (y)
 
Actually if those wires between battery positive and the busbar are short enough that they can't dead short to a negative terminal then you don't need fuses there.
 
Still no wire gauges and you should have a means of disconnect between the panels and the solar charge controller.
 
Gonna be hard to find a disconnect switch that is rated over 350 amps.
Probably should put in 2 one for each battery positive.
And if you are doing that you should put mrbf fuses on the terminals.
 
Still no wire gauges and you should have a means of disconnect between the panels and the solar charge controller.
He has one (I think), look near the bottom right corner of the SCC, I believe taht is a double pole breaker.
 
Actually @Solarfun4jim why not go 24 volts?
Make those cells into an 8s battery.
Half the amperage of the system.
Half the size of the wires.
The switching gear will be able to handle the load with relative ease.
Get per cell balancing.
 
Actually @Solarfun4jim why not go 24 volts?
Make those cells into an 8s battery.
Half the amperage of the system.
Half the size of the wires.
The switching gear will be able to handle the load with relative ease.
Get per cell balancing.
I concur, 24v makes a lot more sense, especially considering that you don't seem to have any DC loads (one of the main reasons people often stick to 12v).
I see many upsides and no downsides in this situation
Your charge controller will be a lot cheaper too.
 
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Guys you are right again. My original thinking was utilising some 12v equipment, but that has been negated now. My BMS has 8 attachment wires anyways.... so yes, it does make more sense....will recost the SCC and inv/charger now. Fortunately i have still to purchase these. Cells and BMS i have now got. Solar panels on the way....everything else just to be sourced now.
Only addition i might add later is a sterling b2b but that is fine also with a 12v - 24v unit....so no probems.
 
Guys you are right again. My original thinking was utilising some 12v equipment, but that has been negated now. My BMS has 8 attachment wires anyways.... so yes, it does make more sense....will recost the SCC and inv/charger now. Fortunately i have still to purchase these. Cells and BMS i have now got. Solar panels on the way....everything else just to be sourced now.
Inverter/Charger will be the same price, but you can now either get an SCC half the size (and hopefully half the cost) or a PV array twice the size.
 
I don't think you need the disconnect anymore since you can turn the inverter/charger off and you have panel side disconnect to turn off the solar charge controller.
You could even go with a 2 position mrbf terminal fuse and get rid of the positive busbar if you wanted.
 
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