EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread
- Thread starter SignatureSolarJames
- Start date
It says in eg4 warranty statement that they basically don't take any responsibility for your lack of knowledge. That they recommend having a licensed trained professional installer install this equipment (not quoted as the exact wording). So if you can't figure out this Big Giant sloppy switch, you better just hire some one who can so you don't kill some one. Then that installer can explain all your questions about the unit.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Since this is a Q+A thread about this specific device, they need to fix the book, not everyone has a Sol-Ark manual laying around to compare notes.
BTW, would that be anything like hiring a licensed electrician an having him install mis-labeled equipment? how about a licenced Pest Control operator, here's a bottle of chemicals, it kills bugs, doesn't have a label, but your licensed so you know everything right? I've been doing electronics since the tube days, how about a 6L6 and wind your own coil for a transmitter? If I can't figure it out, neither will the vast majority of licensed installers. This is a brand new product, the manual needs to be better, and should describe all the components of the device period. Licensed pilots flew 737Max's into the ground because the manuals and instructions were not clear. Do not make excuses for shoddy documentation.
Shout-out to Danke. The Sol-Ark similarity is interesting to an extreme. That was actually the unit I was looking at when I opted for the 18K. And we note a simple picture labeling the various knobs and such, that are very similar... What if they weren't? I know 'Licensed Installers' don't always read manuals on new products they've never seen but they should still refer to them. I know in the last 50 or so years, I've never had a licensed installer try and blow smoke up my rear after they installed something incorrectly. But it says here in the manual, ....
Documentation is a lot like sex. When it's good it's wonderful, and when it's bad, it's better than nothing.
BTW, would that be anything like hiring a licensed electrician an having him install mis-labeled equipment? how about a licenced Pest Control operator, here's a bottle of chemicals, it kills bugs, doesn't have a label, but your licensed so you know everything right? I've been doing electronics since the tube days, how about a 6L6 and wind your own coil for a transmitter? If I can't figure it out, neither will the vast majority of licensed installers. This is a brand new product, the manual needs to be better, and should describe all the components of the device period. Licensed pilots flew 737Max's into the ground because the manuals and instructions were not clear. Do not make excuses for shoddy documentation.
Shout-out to Danke. The Sol-Ark similarity is interesting to an extreme. That was actually the unit I was looking at when I opted for the 18K. And we note a simple picture labeling the various knobs and such, that are very similar... What if they weren't? I know 'Licensed Installers' don't always read manuals on new products they've never seen but they should still refer to them. I know in the last 50 or so years, I've never had a licensed installer try and blow smoke up my rear after they installed something incorrectly. But it says here in the manual, ....
Documentation is a lot like sex. When it's good it's wonderful, and when it's bad, it's better than nothing.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
I still ended up using the Chargeverter in my plan because there doesn't seem to be a way to have any AC input simply used to throw DC at the battery bus. This is really annoying, since the needed circuitry is in the box. When my A/C unit kicks on it causes a complete blip that trips the UPS's on my electronic gear. It's a 4T unit, low end Goodman. I will put a soft-start kit in it to see if it helps reduces the starup draw. Someone stole my fancy recording fluke on a job but the pull must be very extreme. It dims the lights directly from the 150A grid, but it basicially kicks down to nothing attached to the inverter. The a/c unit is only a year old. The house is early 70's block, and they used aluminum wiring up the the roof for the A/C. (And the HWH and the Dryer). I've never been a fan of aluminum, but the run up to the roof thru the attic is a bear. I'm wondering if running some #6 copper THHN would help as well, it looks to be #6 aluminum on a 50A breaker. I already swapped out the HWH for copper, the dryer is a more problematic run as well.
I've not done a full stress test yet either. i have two units in parallel, Next test will start an EV charge @24A sustained, and see about getting the load to spike ovver 60 or so.
I've not done a full stress test yet either. i have two units in parallel, Next test will start an EV charge @24A sustained, and see about getting the load to spike ovver 60 or so.
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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A soft start is the best option. They are well worth the money.
I just put a soft start on mine. Reduced to 22a on startup. No flicker.
Anyone know if you can add say a lv6048 to the grid side of this inverter? Say I wanted a tad more capacity but used off grid without buying another 18kpv? Thats out of my budget.
Anyone know if you can add say a lv6048 to the grid side of this inverter? Say I wanted a tad more capacity but used off grid without buying another 18kpv? Thats out of my budget.
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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Only if you can guarantee that it will never export to the 6548. That would damage the 6548.
Well, I apologize for my comment to ya. Looks like I might have some of the same issues hooking up grid to charge and share loads if some one don't figure this thing out, as I planned to use it for. Last thing I want is for any thing getting exported to the grid.
Last edited:
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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The chargeverter is the perfect solution.
My system is completely off grid.
But I can use the grid, generator, or any other source for backup, through the chargeverter. Because the chargeverter is my only connection to the grid. It removes a lot of the issues that are created by connecting to the grid.
Ground loops
N/G bonding
Backfeeding
Ac charging
And allows the generator to work at peak efficiency.
My system is completely off grid.
But I can use the grid, generator, or any other source for backup, through the chargeverter. Because the chargeverter is my only connection to the grid. It removes a lot of the issues that are created by connecting to the grid.
Ground loops
N/G bonding
Backfeeding
Ac charging
And allows the generator to work at peak efficiency.
From what i've read you're better off connecting another inverter to the generator port for AC coupling.
SignatureSolarJames
Try Solar, the Grid will always take you back
We need a video on that @Markus_SignatureSolar
Would that add additional wattage over the 12kw? Another words would it “blend” well like it pulls from the grid port now?
Still have about .1-.2kwh export a day. Have not updated the firmware yet to see if that solves it. Inverter was put in only 2 weeks ago so Im assuming it’s fairly up to date.
Are you using this with the 18kpv?
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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No
But it doesn't matter what system you have.
As long as you're system is 48v nominal.
Ok, just wondered.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
So my panels go on the roof Saturday. I've been doing load testing and these 18K's seem to be very robust thus far. The soft-start improved the dip but did not eliminate it; now it just blinks. The highest (sustained) draw so far has been just under 60A. There is a long story behind the A/C unit on the roof, but it will at some point be replaced with mini-splits. I had started insulating the walls in the room this stuff is in (for the inverters I ripped out), and since I own a couple of portable A/C's (see long story 
... To kick this off the plan was to leverage the smaller one to cool the room (roughly 8x11), setting it to a relatively high value (90 - 95, whatever it will let me go up to). The room was ~108F when I got home at 1730, I kicked on the inverters against the batteries to do some load shifting for a couple of hours (1300-2000 is peak). A/C was running fans did not kick on, at about 2700W/unit. Both units were uncomfortably warm to the touch on the cabinet (misplaced my temp gun) but not blister producing at all. It's going to hit 120 in that room from time to time, July/August without A/C , but I wonder how much these guys can actually deal with. I think the spec sheet lists these at -25C to 60C (140F), derated > 45C (113F). I'm not sure I might not be better off with a vent fan. That is some serious temperature range. The question would be how much we ar gonna 'de-rate' it. Manual doesn't mention it specifically but 48C(120F) is still pretty far under the max. I've never seen it over 123F here.
I'd welcome any thoughts on the temperature. Looks like 30K of batteries dropped about 40% in 2 hours. This might be affected by temp more than the inverters. On a better direction I have the control system kicking the relay for the chargeverter daily at 2005. It is set at 75A. It actually charges the batteries a few percent between 2005 and 0700 (When I turned it all off) This is going to be interesting, The modbus RS485 on the unit is set to 19200 according to the manual. All the other stuff I have is 9600. The problem with USB dongles is the order of enumeration is sometimes impossible to predict. I want finer control over turning the A/C charging on. I'll figure something out, maybe just grab onto the battery bus, it's 9600 I think. I set my other modbus sensors starting at ID 10.
... To kick this off the plan was to leverage the smaller one to cool the room (roughly 8x11), setting it to a relatively high value (90 - 95, whatever it will let me go up to). The room was ~108F when I got home at 1730, I kicked on the inverters against the batteries to do some load shifting for a couple of hours (1300-2000 is peak). A/C was running fans did not kick on, at about 2700W/unit. Both units were uncomfortably warm to the touch on the cabinet (misplaced my temp gun) but not blister producing at all. It's going to hit 120 in that room from time to time, July/August without A/C , but I wonder how much these guys can actually deal with. I think the spec sheet lists these at -25C to 60C (140F), derated > 45C (113F). I'm not sure I might not be better off with a vent fan. That is some serious temperature range. The question would be how much we ar gonna 'de-rate' it. Manual doesn't mention it specifically but 48C(120F) is still pretty far under the max. I've never seen it over 123F here.I'd welcome any thoughts on the temperature. Looks like 30K of batteries dropped about 40% in 2 hours. This might be affected by temp more than the inverters. On a better direction I have the control system kicking the relay for the chargeverter daily at 2005. It is set at 75A. It actually charges the batteries a few percent between 2005 and 0700 (When I turned it all off) This is going to be interesting, The modbus RS485 on the unit is set to 19200 according to the manual. All the other stuff I have is 9600. The problem with USB dongles is the order of enumeration is sometimes impossible to predict. I want finer control over turning the A/C charging on. I'll figure something out, maybe just grab onto the battery bus, it's 9600 I think. I set my other modbus sensors starting at ID 10.
Do you have a basement?So my panels go on the roof Saturday. I've been doing load testing and these 18K's seem to be very robust thus far. The soft-start improved the dip but did not eliminate it; now it just blinks. The highest (sustained) draw so far has been just under 60A. There is a long story behind the A/C unit on the roof, but it will at some point be replaced with mini-splits. I had started insulating the walls in the room this stuff is in (for the inverters I ripped out), and since I own a couple of portable A/C's (see long story
I'd welcome any thoughts on the temperature. Looks like 30K of batteries dropped about 40% in 2 hours. This might be affected by temp more than the inverters. On a better direction I have the control system kicking the relay for the chargeverter daily at 2005. It is set at 75A. It actually charges the batteries a few percent between 2005 and 0700 (When I turned it all off) This is going to be interesting, The modbus RS485 on the unit is set to 19200 according to the manual. All the other stuff I have is 9600. The problem with USB dongles is the order of enumeration is sometimes impossible to predict. I want finer control over turning the A/C charging on. I'll figure something out, maybe just grab onto the battery bus, it's 9600 I think. I set my other modbus sensors starting at ID 10.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Nope, Three sides block on slab Garage/West side has meter, Co-opted utility room for the project. A/C will not keep room cool, it keeps shutting down for 5-10 minute intervals every time the main A/C cuts on every 10-15 minutes and browns out the service. This is a significant problem. I might just stick it on the grid, and get creative with something to turn it on. Need to get this going, then I'll figure outhow to handle the A/C issue. Not sure what I can do
Luxpower_Gilbert
Luxpert @Luxpower USA Team
Use grid peak shaving feature, it will act the grid as a transformer when there is a sudden big load on the inverter, set it to 0.1 which is the inverter will always draw 100 watts from the grid and the inverter will take the rest of the load.. i been using this and its been working well for My needed.
