diy solar

diy solar

EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread

ok that for that input. I am basically the installer but I did contract out the final connections to a solar company here that I got the panels mounted from. they are looking at selling EG4 based on my final analysis. I love the system so far but for these quirks with grid in and out when not required. Since there is no distributor I am guessing then I have to ask Signature Solar to either add those options on my maintenance page or make that change to the CT offset?
system is directly wired to street meter with a 200amp disconnect between grid feed and 18kpv. load on the inverter is connected to my 200amp panel which also feeds a 120v sub panel using a 60amp breaker. I preferred this setup as I can run my 4 AC's, electric oven and led lighting and outlets from inverter as it is whole house, I also went this way as I needed whole house UPS due to working on internet all day long for Phoenix office law firm.
I have 2 5kw EG4 LL series batts (planning to add 1 more next month, and 18 Canadian Solar 440W panels. split on two stings and trackers,
Batteries from dead recharge by 11am usually and run me all night until about 4-5am, sun starts charging aging at 6am, so that is why adding one more battery. Currently the utility company does not allow grid feedback and I got one warning already,
that help? and thank you,
Installer account must have to able change the ct power offset. Make sure the fast zero export is enable too..
 
You're managing the automatic part by setting the voltage on the chargeverter to just above your low voltage cutoff?

I've been thinking this would be a decent workaround to the grid export problem, although I'd rather see SS resolve the grid export thing. With the potential of causing someone to get their meter pulled for feeding back to the grid I don't think that's an unreasonable expectation.
You could also integrate a contactor that's activated by the generator dry contact.
 
That fast zero export setting needs to be an absolute zero power export ever. Like ducks arse closed. I don't need my power company giving me hassle about this so for now I only connect to the grid if I need to charge my batteries.
Just want make it clear that fast zero export settings nothing to do with zero export, its a setting that makes the inverter to read faster what is reading of the ct..
 
If you never want to export. Then the simple solution is to not be grid-tied.
I have the grid available for backup only. And my only connection to the grid is my chargeverter. If my SOC gets close to my low voltage cutoff setting. The chargeverter automatically kicks in and keeps the battery voltage just above cutoff. It will pull just what is needed to do so, until the sun comes back out.
Sounds great and that is also my plan when I figure out how to parallel or stack a 6kw with the 18kpv. I need more than 12kw of power sometimes and this inverter is marketed as zero export. It checks all the boxes if it actually had zero export.
 
I'm not understanding. If you have it set for no export to grid it should never be sending any power to the grid especially since that might get you into trouble with the utility company. You should not have to add any other devices in order to prevent that or say you shouldn't have grid connected at all until necessary. I wonder if the zero export is erroring too far on the wrong side and it should be erroring on not covering all your surge loads instead (so you'd be using some grid power instead of accidentally exporting to grid like @rmacgurn showed.
 
If you never want to export. Then the simple solution is to not be grid-tied.
I have the grid available for backup only. And my only connection to the grid is my chargeverter. If my SOC gets close to my low voltage cutoff setting. The chargeverter automatically kicks in and keeps the battery voltage just above cutoff. It will pull just what is needed to do so, until the sun comes back out.
don't really want to spend more money to get a feature this inverter is advertised to have and support, self consume mode or Solar/Battery/Grid priority. I will hope that they solve this with software or the CT offset helps reduce the grid feed.
 
I'm not understanding. If you have it set for no export to grid it should never be sending any power to the grid especially since that might get you into trouble with the utility company. You should not have to add any other devices in order to prevent that or say you shouldn't have grid connected at all until necessary. I wonder if the zero export is erroring too far on the wrong side and it should be erroring on not covering all your surge loads instead (so you'd be using some grid power instead of accidentally exporting to grid like @rmacgurn showed.
We agree and that is what some of us are trying to point out. It should just work.
 
100% zero export is not a simple task.
Surges happen. And responding quickly enough to never export a single electron is very hard.
You are always taking a risk. If you install a grid-tied system without having an agreement with the utility company.
 
Mine seems to add to the grid even during very low loads. No surges. As in we are not home and its just the freezer and fridge on. Around 240w average loads. It just exports. I hear what you are saying and great for you going with a different system. Nevertheless those of us with this unit simply wanted what we paid for. As advertised. Still a good unit so far for me. If not wanting an agreement probably not the best unit.
 
I don't think that any grid-tied system can guarantee 100% zero export. (It's a grid-tied system)
Unless it can completely (physically) disconnect from the grid.
Trying to control individual electrons in a free flowing connection. Is a reactive response. Some have to be seen getting through, before it even sees a need to react.
 
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