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Did you try to charge the "bad" cells at all? Curious if they took a charge? Where did you buy them? Link?

I requested pricing for shipping for a handfull. I received a stock reply with costs for 100ah 12V with LCD screen for 268.00/pc. The email had multiple other options as well. No real answer directly to my shipping question. My guess is that this listing is just bogus to harvest inquiries and...

When I wired up my camper, I used the following charger: Progressive Dynamics PD9145ALV 12V Lithium Ion Battery Converter/Charger - 45 Amp Additionally, I wired a power transfer switch to my setup which serviced to not only supply the charger when connected to shore power, but switched my AC in...

My experience with the IQ4 Module and IOTA devices is that it drops to float voltages after 120Minutes. This means that it can be difficult to fully charge depleted packs using this converter setup. This was confirmed by the manufacturer by myself and others. Even if you don't need the full...

I would still be cautious about that pack. Perhaps ask for documentation on ideal and max discharge on published papers or a link to the manufacturer. With that said, I can't help with any suppliers that might ship to Canada. Have you attempted any of the standard players on Aliexpress or...

The Amazon link mentions a 1C MAX discharge BUT then mentions a 20AMP max draw. I'm inclined usually to believe the lower values on these "generic" batteries. I've seen trolling motors pull 40AMPs so you may have a problem with this battery. Seems a large investment and you can probably make...

Just so I’m clear, I’m saying the voltage matters. A 50amp 12v battery charger only pulls -5-6amps from a 120v AC line. Your 30amp 120v AC shore power should handle that with no problem and no tripped breakers.

Don't confuse a 30A /120V with a 50A/12V. A 50A/12V converter should pull ~5amps at 120V. (It will be a little more because of losses, but its still small at 120V) If you have a 50A LIFEPO4 converter, you can still use that on a 30A 120V line to pull a full 50A/12V. On the original topic - I...

I'll first knock on wood. I've ordered 100's (if not 1000 then close probably) of things from china over the years via Alibaba, Aliexpress, and Ebay. Not once did I have one rejected as counterfeit. Now.. Most of the things I've ordered were electrical in nature -- I wasnt ordering clothes or...

You are correct... the OP doesnt indicate battery chem. Should have started there.

While voltage on LIFEPO4 is difficult to use to calculate an accurate SOC, it can be used to determine at the edges. 13.09V is pretty low. Is the battery bank ever getting charged fully? If you fully drain those batteries, I don't think the solar will recharge them in a single day. Can...

Then you need to inspect the charge controller you have to see if it can support LIPO charge profiles AND ensure that its does not provide the LIPO pack too much amperage for your 3S pack.

I was also suggesting you do not use that charge controller that was included. It will not work for your battery type.

Unless your original description was incorrect, it will not work that charger is for 2s-4s. You are trying to charge a 1s probably at less than 3amps. I assume you can charge at 1c but it’s dependent on the battery. That charger would likely make your battery go boom. It’s important to know...

Couple of things. The RAW cells in a serial configuration (4s. 3.2Vx4) will multiply the voltage to the same ~12V system but does not multiply the AH. You still have 280AH of storage. You also need to purchase a BMS, a battery box, cabling, etc to create a full battery. The battleborn is a...

You probably need to find the open circuit voltage of your panel. If its less than 6V, you can probably use something similar to this. This solar controller is a little more in line with your application but will likely require a new panel. 10W might be a bit overkill for that battery...

I have 2 of the 16AH running in a plano box. Nice setup for what it is. Still need to find a better charger for it at low amps. While building it I remembered I despise spade terminals..... I also placed an order for an 80AH 4S pack for 157 shipped...

You certainly like those cigarette adapters. :) There are lots of ideas out there. I would suggest you line up all you want to run to understand the draw on the batteries and build a system to support the devices and runtime you are looking for. Starting with batteries and working backwards...

Couple of things... 1. A 50ah battery would surely work. Runtime will vary based on some variables (Temp of the fridge, external temp, how full it is, etc). I've seen estimates around 17AH/day at fridge temps. That would give you around 3 days on 50ah. A 2. You can build your own 80ah...

I'll pass along my input -- but I'm sure there are others more knowledgeable who will chime in. We use the term DC/DC converter and charger somewhat interchangeably -- but in this case we need to look at the function. Coming off an alternator, you want to LIMIT THE CURRENT to your battery bank...

I asked more than once. They indicated there was no way to user change it. I'm sure there is but its software. I was pretty clear that it completely hamstrings the product -- especially with the size of batteries today -- It basically limits the DLS-30 to a 60AH battery bank. The POT inside...

I've been back and forth with Iota expressing some frustration on this very issue. They finally indicated we should be able adjust the pot in the unit to the voltage we need. I will attempt that without the LIFEPO module to see if I can set this as close to 14.5/14.6 as I can

Would love to see the 280's in that battery box... Interested!

So... Yeah. Quite an upgrade! Just don't leave the Lifepo out in the rain if thats what you did with the AGM.

I’m going to need more solar. Ugh

So... I wonder how long I could run my pop up on a 12v 1000ah.

Keep in mind that that is a modified sine wave inverter. Depending on your needs -- it may or may not work well. In theory you could pull more than 1C from the 280ah 12V pack with that inverter. Again -- this depends on your AC needs. To be honest, 2000W is quite a bit of power. 16+ Amps...

Is it 12V or 24V? I've seen 2000W Giandel at 24V. I havent seen 12V models but can't say I've ever looked. What BMS? (Assuming you are running this through the BMS...) 2000W at 12V is ~166Amps. If you plan on running into the surge, that could be double those amps... Always better to start...

At 12V, they seem like an ideal match to a 1500W inverter for occasional loads. RV/Camper where your loads are mild @12V with small exceptions using inverters. Just my .02

I know this wasnt mentioned -- but I think its better to start with the loads you want to power. I do think it was mentioned above -- 90ah batteries won't last really long on 1500W. This might be fine if its just for a couple of minutes for coffee but if you plan on running that load for any...

Its been a few days and just want to report that the method above is still holding tight. I'm going to replicate this for next pack as it seems to work well.

I posted my current "attempt" in another thread. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/best-way-to-compress-cells-in-packs.11299/post-127308

I'm not sure this is the best way -- but I located the following metal zip ties.. They were cheap and putting 3 inline allowed me to get around a 4S 120AH pack. This seems like it could work for any size battery and its cheaper than hose clamps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086265WH2/...

What do you folks feel about this case for a 12V setup? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-9-Gal-17-5-in-L-x-14-in-W-x-10-in-H-Pro-Plus-Guard-Drilling-Kit-with-Stackable-Tool-Storage-Hard-Case-GXA3-01L/306078895?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-10451-483420- 40.00 shipped fits my budget... and think it...

Same here... Ordered a day or two ago and it should be here today. Quick shipping.