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I have a 24v system and an Onan 7000. I installed 3 orion 24/12 70A dc-dc converters & I don't have any issues starting the Onan or running the levelers and the slide outs. I tested the system with 2 Orion's and it works no problem as well, I put the third in for redundancy only.

An update, Amazon processed the return for the two defective ones and I ordered 2 more from another seller which were a slight variation from the other ones. They are identical with the exception of the binding posts which are shorter and have bakelite knobs to tighten, which I replaced with...

I had a real tough time trying to get Inverters R US to replace them, the tech support guy wanted pictures of the install and insisted I wired them wrong. I finally ended up going through Amazon and in two minutes they sent me a return code and I bought 2 more to replace them as well as an extra...

I bought these in December from inverters r us, I'm calling now to see if they can send out new ones. In the mean time, I'll order another and test that unit, faster than waiting for them at tech support.

They're toast, both of them. I unplugged the jumper and there is no difference, the power still passes through at around 20V.

I wired it correctly for sure, and also precharged the Multiplus capacitor before turning the batteries on, I'll try the screw but I think both units may be bad.

Should the jumper wire be left in? I understand that should be left in place.

The Orion is outputting 20.33V right now directly from the output. It's coming out of a Lynx distributor.

I managed to get my system up and running yesterday & the 2 Orion 24/12 70A's are not outputting 12v. I'm pretty sure I have everything wired correctly, Lynx is outputting 28.36V and the Orion is outputting 21.28V. please let me know what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!

Thanks again Alex, I've already updated thanks to you. The amount of people that have viewed this thread and nobody caught that. I'm wiring everything up right now and it's a huge job in a Class A. Cheers!

I could have gone with the BlueSolar if I'd have known, and saved a few pe$o$. I also have 2 smart battery sense's. Will they communicate with the Cerbo?

They're the SmartSolars, bluetooth capable

Hi Sunshine_Eggo, I'm ready to wire up my Victron stuff together, and I'm confused with the cabling that is needed to get everything recognized by the Cerbo. Am I correct? I'll need an RJ45 cable from the Multiplus to the Cerbo, I'm eliminating the VE.Bus Smart dongle as per your suggestion...

Good point Alex! I posted this early on the forum and was advised to wire and fuse this way. I'm going to revise. The information for these converters is vague at best. I'll be running a separate M8 ground bus bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B17X95J2 which I'll ground to the frame. From there...

I did. Good point Alex, I will be travelling with a couple of spare fuses of each type just in case. However the fuses are there to protect the wire, and if the wire is properly sized I can't foresee any of them blowing on their own. The 2 Orion's in parallel 12v output wire is being connected...

I'm doing my Class A right now with a 24V Multiplus II 2x120, I just got the panels up yesterday and was nerve racking drilling holes in my roof! I have 4x 460W residential panels and am wiring them to separate SmartSolar MPPT 100|20 charge controllers mainly for shading effects as well as...

As a newbie & fellow Canuk from Toronto, I walk softly & i won't shoot you, but I'm carrying a big insulated stick ? I really appreciate your input Steve!

I finally finished running my 50ft of 6/4 SOOW cable and was easier than I thought it would be although tedious securing the wire every 12 in or so. I have a couple of questions before splicing the AC OUT from the Multiplus II to my existing breaker panel. Is a 50A breaker needed for the AC IN...

Thanks, I like this article better. Much of the same photo's are used.

There is a good article I came across here from 2006 on battery bank fusing, the photo of the burnt out boat really makes you take all of this seriously! https://pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_fusing

That saves some $$$ This will be fused in the Lynx The battery can be connected anywhere along the positive & negative bus bars, Victron suggests the inverter be connected directly beside the battery on the busbar, I'm doing it this way to connect my disconnect switch as well as the Smartshunt...

In my case each BMS is rated for 200A I have been researching that a fusing is not needed here, but a 2 pole disconnect switch is. Nate explains it well and why here In my case is fused in the LYNX with Mega fuse MAX Pull = Inverter load ie: Multiplus II 24 V 120 x2 = 3000W / 20V cutoff /...

I have been getting conflicting answers on this and I'm still unsure as to the fusing and the wire size to use on my system and the batteries are the same as Solarstuff's. There is also no mention of a fuse between the busbar and the disconnect switch where one is needed to protect that wire...

Hi Steve_s, this is how the manufacturer suggests wiring these batteries in parallel. Where should these be fused?

Originally I had both Orion's wired to one slot on my Lynx Distributor and it was suggested to me to give them a dedicated slot and fuse each accordingly. I may size the wire down to 6 AWG , I could probably get away with 8 AWG on the 24V input side but will need the 4 AWG on the 12V output. Do...

Thank you, that has always been my gut feeling on this. I was contemplating going with a couple of Marine Rated 225A MRBF's on the POS terminals and then after the distribution block and before the disconnect go with a 225A class T. The more I've been researching I'm quite surprised at the...

Thanks Rocketman! I ended picking up the SOOW reluctantly, and the stuff weights a ton, I needed 50 feet of the stuff, and you're right about the Ferrules, the strands are really fine. Tomorrow I'm securing all 50ft of it and wrapping it split loom, a ton or work. After that's done I have to run...

Thanks very much for the info! I ended up going with 6/4 SOOW cable because I routed under the coach, disconnected the shore power wire from breaker panel then spliced it with the SOOW to the Multiplus and then back to the breaker. I have to finish securing the wire tomorrow. It's a lot heavier...

I'm not sure why everyone is posting these Pyle's and MeanWells. The price of 3 of those is equivalent to 2 of thesethat steve_s posted https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Orion-12-40A-Converter/dp/B073PFD2GJ/ The Victron stuff just works, and even the 70A version...

I misread, and thought was 80A, I should wear my glasses when posting. I'd go for the 40A that steve_s posted, it's a good price.

I picked up 2 - 24/12 70A Orion's to run in parallel to the DC distribution which is 150A in my Motorhome, other's have posted that it works (Includes 2 slide outs, levelling jacks, generator start, lights et..) I'll be installing everything in the next week or so and will report back.

I decided to not put one battery above and have them both on the same level, the distance from terminals is now only18in apart.

How does this look for my fusing? I'm concerned about that trailer wire joining the batteries, and it it even needed as the batteries are connected at the bus bar with equal length wires, also is a fuse needed between the bus bar and the disconnect switch at the Lynx? The other option would be...

Here is my close to final draft of the months long learning experience. I added a second 24V battery in parallel and hope my fusing is correct from the batteries to the Lynx. Should I be fusing each battery at the positive terminal as well or fusing each battery with it's own class T? Please let...

Upon careful thought, I decided to go with the 4 x 100/20 mainly for the redundancy in running a 24v system in remote areas such as the Baja where it's difficult to find basic good quality electronics of any voltage, also for the shading effect benefits. I'm full timing in my RV so this is...