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Pretty good. I made a 2nd similar pole mount. I like it! A simple setup. The posts, U-bolts, and wood back-plate concept can be found at your local big box store. The Aluminum C-channels and a thick aluminum plate, I had to order and wait a few days before I could pick them up at the local...

Well, I've recently been tinkering with the Miady 12V@8Ah (Amazon) version. I had 2 objectives: First, replace a 12V@8Ah sealed lead-acid starter battery for my Champion 3100W inverter generator. This battery keeps dying if it sits too long (several months). Second, I have a bunch of hunting...

I tried leaving a 12V Samlex 1,000W inverter on all the time at our recreational hunt camp. Left it running unattended for 3 weeks. Came back and the thing had a continuous error beep sounding off. Have no idea how long it had stopped working, likely for days. Couldn't get it to work again. Was...

Yeah, the BMS in my 24V@400Ah (really 348Ah) Shunbin battery box stopped working a couple weeks back. We were pushing a good amount of power through it, though. Powering a truck shell camper to include the air-conditioner, plus some other accessories lights, fans, and other low-power circuits...

Hi All, figured I'd give an update since I've been using my Xuba EVE 280's (24V@560AH, 16 cells) on & off for the last 7+ months or so. Averaging about 4KWh usage a day to match my 1KWh solar array (soon to be 3KWh). Just came in handy with Tropical storm Eta this past week here in Florida...

My buddy had trouble with my 24V Shunbin battery box up at our recreation camp. He brought it back home so I could take a look at it. I did full maintenance on it. In the end, it's still working well. What happened was he drained the battery all the way to 0%. Looks like the BMS low-voltage...

For my 24V@348Ah Shunbin battery box, I set my Epever 40A Solar Charge controller to the Gel battery parameters. The only change I made was reduce the Boost Duration to the minimum setting of 10 minutes. Boost Charging voltage: 28.4V Float Charging voltage: 27.6V Guess I've been fortunate. My...

Yes, 2 packs of 8 cells paralleled together (24V@560Ah), negative to negative, positive to positive, I'm using 3/0 AWG lugged cables. Inverter Positive connection to Pack 1, inverter Negative connection to Pack 2. I have my solar charge controller connected to the Samlex inverter/ charger input...

I've not had any issues charging a number of different ways, utility or PV. I've used the old-school Progressive Dynamics 24V@25A designed for lead acid batteries (mainly for bulk charging). I have a cheap 24V@15A power supply that came with a Shunbin LiFePO4 battery box I bought back in...

So each cell is marketed as 3V instead of 3.2V?

Thanks for sharing your results. Interesting... the Wh are less than rated, yet the Ah are more than rated. Would have figured both would be more than rated for brand new cells. 98.2Ah x 4 x 3.2V = 1,257Wh 100Ah x 4 x 3.2V = 1,280Wh 105Ah x 4 x 3.2V = 1,344Wh When I did my capacity tests, my...

I've seen my cells show slightly different voltages, usually during charging or discharging, with one or both end cells in the series. One end cell would show slightly higher, the other end would show slightly lower than the rest. What I did was number each of my cells and change the order of...

Looks like this is an AC power solar panel with a microinverter. Not a DC power panel. http://solarforward.com/pdf/products/AC-Modules/SPR-X20-250-BLK-AC.pdf

Oh yes, the battery voltage would drop a good 1.5V to 2V with any of these high wattage appliances. Actually tripped the power-strip on one test. I had the coffee maker, microwave, and toaster oven plugged into it. Apparently it trips at around 15A@120V (~1,800W). I think it was between the...

Hmmm... Not sure I'd look at it the same way. 16S * 3.2V = 51.2V (48V Nominal) 0.05V * 16 = 0.8V 0.8V ÷ 51.2V = 1.6% The + or - accuracy of the equipment most folks are using probably wouldn't be able to make much difference from a couple percent one way or the other. Not saying it can't be...

The User setting is the custom profile. The difference between the MT50 and the PC Solar Station software looks like you can go one more decimal place. Example, 3.45V instead of 3.4V. Not sure I wanna get that meticulous.

You could set them to 3.5V. It won't hurt, but not much more benefit either. You would use the capacity between 3.5V to 3.35V pretty quickly (negligible watts). The real workhorse voltage range is around 3.35V to 3.1V (that flat-line in the graph). I'm just trying to get as close to the upper...

Now that we have a good sense of comfort the Xuba cell/ battery capacity is good (I haven’t read anyone really say otherwise). Moving on to determining Solar Charge Controller (SCC) setting options. After a good amount of tinkering today. I’m gonna see about using the solar charge settings...

I'm still trying to figure out the particular top and bottom settings. The 27V - 25V range worked out really well in this last test. Seems like a nice Goldilocks range. But, it required regular attention as I had to set the solar charge controller (SCC) above 28V to maximize the amps (current)...

I'm losing track of which number capacity test this is, ha ha. Another desirable outcome. 16 Xuba 3.2V 280Ah LiFePO4 cells (8S2P, 24V nominal) - Rated capacity 14,336Wh I disconnected both of the cheap 15A BMS's I had connected. No BMS's for this test. Not sure they've been doing much anyways...

I'm in the middle of running another capacity test. Using all 16 Xuba cells this time (24V@560Ah). Rated capacity 14,336Wh. Started at 27V rested. Currently at 9,300Wh used in almost 24 hours so far. Hovering at about 26V now with a 500W load. Hoping to reach 12,186Wh or more usable capacity...

Looks like it wouldn't hurt to try it out, as long as you don't melt or permanently damage the panels, ha ha. Best case, is it works as out as you hope or better. Worst case, it's more hassle than it's worth. Or, perhaps somewhere in the middle. Give it a try and perhaps update the forum with...

I experimented with the idea when I was first learning about solar power (~15 years ago) using one of those cheap 13W Top Ray solar suitcases. I used a 3' x 2' mirror. I heated the panels enough to warp the plastic casing that formed the fold-able suitcase. It did boost the output, but I think I...

I think that's promising. That's a mild drop considering the circumstances. Even with my 16 good cells I see a similar settling like this after they rest for a while.

Craigslist. It's where I've been getting my panels lately in Tampa. 345W @$150.

New challenge when trying to charge using the middle capacity range of the battery. After I ran my last capacity test, I decided to charge the battery using solar instead of the Inverter/ charger (which has a Lithium CC/CV charging option). The battery was not in use when I charged it back up...

If each of the cells are the same voltage then it sounds like it might be the BMS. Does the BMS look damaged (ie. Burn marks, cracked board, broken/ loose wires)? Test the voltage from the negative post where the BMS connects to the cell and the Positive terminal on the outside of the box. Does...

I think this is capacity test #6. Another desirable outcome. 8 Xuba 3.2V 280Ah cells (24V nominal) - Rated capacity 7,168Wh I set the Inverter/ Charger to 27V charging. Rested over night to 26.80V. Test Range Upper limit: 26.80V (rested voltage) Lower limits (varying low C-rate loads)...

Found my panels on Craiglist. 345W panels for $150 each (new, last year's model). Only 8 miles away. Threw a few in the back of my pick-up truck. Had 'em home in less than an hour. Was a quick transaction on a Saturday afternoon. Panels have been working as expected since I got them last September.

Looks like Steve has be the best overview pic. Disconnect the battery box from anything connected to it. Remove all the side screws that hold down the top cover. Remove top cover. You may have to wrestle with and slice away any caulking along the way. You should not have to clip any wires for...

I don't disagree with MisterSandals. When charging or over-charging using the variable power supply, be extra vigilant watching the cells. It's easy to get impatient and try to force the PS to charge faster (max Volts, max Amps). I've already over-charged my cells a few times by accident...

I guess it depends on how comfortable you are with working electrical stuff. Unscrewing and lifting the cover off the top of the box isn't going to hurt anything. You could at least use a multi-meter to check the voltage of each cell. No solder needed at this point. If I remember right, both...

No issues with you Sgt Raven. I'm noting in general, assuming gyrex may not have known I'd already done a couple full capacity tests; possibly because of the topic clutter.

Full capacity test #1 Full capacity test #2 And we wonder why Steve tries to keep everyone on topic. So we don't have 40 pages of clutter.

Probably need a little more information to better understand the scope of what you have in mind. Are these new BLS batteries replacing older existing batteries? How do they differ? Is the fridge the only thing the batteries will be powering? A very basic capacity test. Fully charge the...