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Thanks! It is nice to have a similar system by which to gauge. I went through my SCC settings again just now and all looked good for LFP batteries, except the rotary dial was not on 7. After changing it and looking at the other settings, all looks right, but the sun is going down. I appreciate...

I have a 12 volt system for my camper. 440 Amp hrs of LFP battery, and 800 Watts of panels. I Installed a 120 volt charger as well, and have charged to 100% several times in the last couple months, and discharged down to 150 Amp hours as the lowest discharge, and several other levels, but...

You are correct. They are not. I mistook the white negative cable coming from the DC side as coming from the AC side. All is good. Thank you.

Inspecting my RV wiring found the incoming 30 amp AC service having the ground wire connected to the ground bar. There is then a bare ground that connects the ground bar to the steel RV frame. The neutral wire is connected to an un-bonded neutral bar, and the hot connected to the breaker, all...

I believe I understand the correct/safe way to ground my system and have drawn it out. Thoughts or corrections are welcome. The system is solar panels, solar charge controller, and inverter powering a manual transfer panel, to run critical sub panel loads. Inverter is a Victron 24/1200...

Thank you Joe.

Thank you Reed. The busbars are a holdover from my original plan to use the 4- 12 Volt batteries paralleled. I needed the extra spaces before. I have updated the drawing now I have chosen to wire as 24 Volts. Can you elaborate? I am not following...

I am connecting 4- 12 volt LFP batteries to provide 24 volts. Is my placement of MRBF fuses correct to protect each battery in case the BMS of any one of the group fails? I do also have as shown in the drawing, a Class T fuse directly after the bus bar.

Thank you.

Okay, got it now :fp2 I was somewhere else yesterday... 2 panels create more than enough to charge a 48 volt battery-I would just need to replace my 24 volt SCC and inverter with a 48 volt SCC, and inverter. Thanks.

Thank you Joe. I do have a shunt/monitor, it isn't visible in the photo as it is inside the camper. Good tip though! In addition to having "better" batteries than the lead acid that was on the tongue, I am trying to shave off unneeded weight. The battery on the tongue is very heavy. Do you have...

Time, Thank you. I hadn't thought to look on the circuit board. It states "Maximum current 150 Amps" Currently has 2-40 Amp fuses.

Thanks guys, I pondered over a 48 volt system, but went with 24 for this project. Wouldn't I need 58.4 Volts to charge a 48 Volt battery? I may not understand what you are saying...? I should consider connecting the solar panels in series to create a higher input voltage to the SCC? I have...

Joe, Thanks for your reply. Your are correct with your understanding. I do have a new charger. I will have to think of a way to create a failsafe for the breakaway as I do have a system disconnect switch. Maybe a very small LFP on the tongue. My lack of understanding is with the amperage...

Reed, Thank you for your thoughts. I have attached a drawing that may help. I do not intend to use the converter to charge my new LFP battery bank. I have a stand alone charger. I will be using the WFCO simply as an AC-DC breaker/fuse panel.

My current camper 12 Volt system consists of a lead acid battery on the tongue, and a WFCO converter inside. The wire from the battery to the converter is AWG 10 and also carries current from the tow vehicle when connected. My new power source will be a 440 AH 12 Volt LFP bank inside the...

Hi, They are intended for 24 Volt systems. Voc on the panels is 45.4 volts.

Thank you for the recommendation. Are you using one of these units? I read the manual and it looks like the max setting for battery priority voltage before it switches back to grid is 25.6 volts? If that is the case, it would draw down my battery bank to 20% capacity before auto switching to...

After trying to design a practical system using 12 volt components, I have seen the light. I have a 12 volt RV system that works very well for what I expect from it, and had hoped that by making my off grid garage project a little bigger, 12 volts would work there too. It would, if I wasn’t...

I was trying to use the inverter I already have. I am also looking for a different inverter but am restricted by the fact that I have a 12 volt system and am trying to stay at or below $1200 for an inverter isn't making the chore easy. I have a 2000 watt now, but should go up to a 3000 watt...

Sorry if I am beating a dead horse here...but I want to be sure, and safe. The inverter loads are isolated from the main AC ground in that they are not tied "directly" together, but because of the bonded ground/neutral in the inverter, and the inverter case being connected to the AC ground...

I may not be understanding your statement? The only shared connection between the inverter system and the AC system is the ground from the AC panel to the DC distribution center, which feeds the inverter, as shown on the drawing. Thank you.

In the attachments, I've drawn out three grounding scenarios to help me understand the ground path for a ground fault. I want to connect a bonded-neutral inverter to a transfer switch, which will allow me to choose between grid, or inverter for 4 select circuits in my main AC sub panel. In the...

Thank you.

I agree that not worrying about cost is sometimes the wiser choice. For now, for me, cost is weighing heavily on my decisions. I'm new to solar, am trying to get my feet wet and learn. An AIO would be advantageous for some, and maybe even me, but I already have a charger for my camping trailer...

Thank you all. After further reading and watching videos, I have a better understanding of the advice you have offered, and of the constraints of my system-as planned. In short, my cheap internally bonded inverter is not suitable for use with a transfer switch because there cannot be more than...

I've been considering a 3000 watt inverter, not because I need that capacity, but to stay more in the middle of the range so as not to overtax the inverter. Is that a wise strategy? There is no "third" ground wire. I will have a #6 bare ground connected to all solar panel frames, and connect it...

I have a “farm panel” electrical setup where main power from the utility feeds the meter and a main breaker set on a pole in the yard. The house and barn are fed separately from this main panel. The house and barn each have a sub panel, with a main breaker. The ground and neutral are bonded in...

Or maybe I'm making it more complicated than it needs to be... Maybe use a steel junction box, and mount the plastic disconnect in it?

Hwy 17, Thanks. That box/switch is almost perfect, just really expensive.. and I need a 4 pole.

PV girl, Thanks. That looks like a feasible solution.

I am refining my PV wiring plan and need direction regarding the PV disconnect switch. In my area, I am under 2008 NEC. No permits, no inspections, and as I understand it, no requirement for a rapid shutdown system. I will have 2 separate array systems, 4 cables, plus ground running in 1.25"...

I'll post a picture of the complete setup when done if you like. Yes, please. Pictures/drawings/layouts I've looked at here on the board have been inspirational. My projects tend to start out as functional too, but after seeing the results of just a bit more effort applied...I prefer to take on...

Thanks, lots to digest, but it helps.