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diy solar

$150 p/hr. Need to hire a remote(Facetime) but experienced Victron installer/electrician to help me finish a 48V/MultiplusII/Lynx enclosure.

HelpMe&GetPaid

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Apr 28, 2024
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North Carolina
I need a second pair of eyes later this week 5/2/24-5/4/24 (days or evenings, doesn't matter to me) or on Saturday to help me avoid AC-out wiring issues, GFCI problems or grounding with MultiplusII 3000W - 120V. I'm willing to pay $150 p/hr with a $450 minimum to the right qualified candidate that can help me get the unit functioning properly. I need it working right before 5/5/24. The right candidate is a seasoned Victron off-grid installer who is ALSO a qualified electrician.

Background
I have previously built a a modular solar generator that uses a single Quattro5000 inverter box and 2x 48V battery boxes. I have used this genset in the field successfully for an extended period of time, well partially sucessfully, as I'll explain further below.

The batteries connect to the inverter block via SB175 cables, that lead to a properly fused Lynx Distributor. There is a built in Victron 48V 150v/35a MPPT and Cerbo GX. Everything with this first build worked, EXCEPT, I fear there was either grounding problem or current leakage, because anytime I wanted to the charge the batteries with AC-in (either from the grid or via a gas generator) both would trip and even exceed the 12amp maximum that I set for the Quattro in the settings. It would even trip 30A and 50A hook ups from RV parks. My clamp meter showed over 30amp draw from a 15A outlet before that too tripped. The 800W solar PV in to the MPPT however functioned fine to charge the LFP batteries, and the 15A standard AC-output worked fine as well to power loads for extended periods, without much extra draw from the batteries, as I measured the load current separately. I think I made an error with the wiring to the DC or AC breakers or I failed to ground the system correctly, floating neutral yes/no, ground spike needed yes/no, etc, etc... I don't know.

2 battery enclosures:
The battery boxes consist of 16S 105ah cells = 52V, 500A Victron Smartshunt, 300A marine switch and a 100A fuse. They have been properly top-balanced and are driven by a Overkill Solar BMS (JK BMS). All wiring is of proper gauge has been tested for resistance, etc. The battery blocks are finished and ready to go and work great!

Inverter Enclosure:
This time around, I'm building and inverter enclosure with a Multiplus II 3000W 120V inverter (new), with the same other gear as above. I'd like to have a single 2-receptacle 20A GFCI outlet, and a single 15A AC-inlet socket that will allow for grid/generator charging when there is no sun. I'd like to possibly combine the DC breaker (for the PV inputs) and the AC input/ output breaker in the same outdoor rated junction box that is nestled into the side of the box (so not a separate unit, but he weather protected breakers still accessible from the outside). Once everything is wired properly, both the inverter and battery blocks are sealed, and are not meant to be altered.

This should be a quick side gig for the right person and could lead to other opportunities as well. I can supply diagrams and photos once the right person has been found.
 
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I have experience with Victron, but I'm not a qualified electrician.

A few things...

1) Overkillsolar sells JBD BMSs, not JK.

2) The most common cause of GFCI tripping is due to excessive N-G bonds. There must be only one. When inverting, the inverter provides the N-G bond. When on shore, the inverter breaks its internal N-G bond and passes through the source, which should have an N-G bond. If you had disabled the ground relay in the Quattro and provided an N-G bond in the AC panel (or somewhere else), shore power would result in a second N-G bond and trip GFCI outlets.

3) Just because you set a 12A limit in your AC input current, doesn't mean it won't pull more than 12A. Since AC-in is passed through to loads, if you pull more loads than that, it will pull > 12A. PowerAssist must be enabled to boost the incoming AC power to prevent overloading the AC source.

Between other smurfs like me, and sparky gurus like @timselectric, we could probably get you sorted before 5/5 and for free.
 
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I've seen many of Tims's posts and replies he's been super helpful to so so many. Unbelievable actually. I do have two different electricians that I can use to check over the system after the build, but unfortunately, they don't know much about the specifics of off-grid fully enclosed solar generators. Would you be willing to walk me through some of the basic N-G AC wiring for a MultiplusII and where to ground the inverter chassis?
 
DC (-) and AC G ground to chassis.

All N to a common bus bar isolated from chassis.

N and G isolated from one another except at the inverter's N-G bond. This is specified in the inverter setup. It is enabled by default.
 
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