diy solar

diy solar

$5,592.32 For A Complete DIY Van Electrical Build?

I agree you can do way better Forget the battleborn build your own battery larger battery for 700 bucks that save a grand right there. You can also save at least 300 on the panels. The Victron units I think while high end are not real budget Buster's so as much as I'm opposed to Victron in general. If you like them stick with them
What inverter would you recommend and do you have a link to a build your own battery that's a quality trusted kit?
 
Normally this comes up very early in a thread... how many watt hours of power do you intend to use (and replace with solar) on a daily basis?

The answer to this will best provide the answer to your question.
I'll try and figure that out. I only started learning all this this week so I will do my best to come up with that number. Do I need to get a device that measures watt usage or just find the watts on my appliances and multiple that by the hours per day used?
 
I'll try and figure that out. I only started learning all this this week so I will do my best to come up with that number. Do I need to get a device that measures watt usage or just find the watts on my appliances and multiple that by the hours per day used?

Get yourself a device called a KILL-A-WATT ... i think they run about 25.00 ... it will show not only what each device can truthfully draw if you turn things on one at a time -- but also cumulative kWhrs ... and if you put it on the very front of the electric cord you are getting your current shore power with then you can honestly see how much the entire van draws in a say (15A socket though) ....

And like everyone else has said - WOW - that's really a Lamborghini build when I honestly think you can get away with a Chevy Cruze ... and literally cut your budget in half .. just because things cost more does not mean they are better ...

And as suggested above check Craigslist fior panels

And buy yourself a GOOD ($35.00) DVM that can read both AC and DC amps .. that will help you more than anything
 
Get yourself a device called a KILL-A-WATT ... i think they run about 25.00 ... it will show not only what each device can truthfully draw if you turn things on one at a time -- but also cumulative kWhrs ... and if you put it on the very front of the electric cord you are getting your current shore power with then you can honestly see how much the entire van draws in a say (15A socket though) ....

And like everyone else has said - WOW - that's really a Lamborghini build when I honestly think you can get away with a Chevy Cruze ... and literally cut your budget in half .. just because things cost more does not mean they are better ...

And as suggested above check Craigslist fior panels

And buy yourself a GOOD ($35.00) DVM that can read both AC and DC amps .. that will help you more than anything
That's good to hear I added that up and was like damn there goes the whole build budget:LOL:. I haven't had any luck on craigslist really, so I think I will stick with 1-2 of the Renogy 300w 24v monocrystalline panels from home depot that were mentioned on the first page. Do you have a link to a DVM (Digital VoltMeter?) that you would recommend?
 
Building your own battery is kinda the point of this website (Will Prowse has a bunch of videos about doing exactly this). However, most people spending the kind of money you are talking about don't do that. Battleborne batteries are very high quality and have a 10 year warranty. If you buy them, you will not need to put any further thought into your batteries for a very long time.

If you are interested in learning the intricacies of building battery packs and find the idea of saving 40 to 50% on the batteries to be a compelling thing then don't hold back. Watch as many of Will's videos as you can first, then dive in. Understand that if you get in over your head, you can smoke a lot of expensive parts.

If you aren't looking for a new hobby or feel like it might be overwhelming, then just spending the $1800 for the Battleborne batteries and know you have the absolute very best LiFePo4 batteries you can buy. This is actually pretty unusual. Most fields it is possible for DIY to provide better quality/performance than commercial products. In the case of LiFePo4 batteries that is not true. You can save money with DIY, but they won't out perform Battleborne.

I am building my own battery pack. I am an odd ball and am building it using automotive Li-ion NMC cells (which 95% of the people on this site won't touch). I am also an EE and the primary reason I am here is this interests me and I want to learn. The NMC battery pack is an experiment and if it doesn't work out for me, then I am going to buy a pair of Battleborne batteries myself. My system is designed for 24V because that has significant advantages for use with a 2000W inverter. Pretty much everything else in my system is going to be Victron, because everything I have learned about the industry and Victron has convinced me that they design and build the very highest quality products. I appreciate that they are engineered to meet published specs and provide a very long, trouble free life. A lot of the products for sale will do neither.

I have very little confidence in the vast majority of the other inverters I have seen on the market. Basically if it costs less than $600 to $700, then run away. The difference between acceptable and best is about $400 to $500. I chose to spend the extra because I believe the quality and features of Victron make them worth it.

Samlex Evo is also a top tier inverter, but it costs pretty much the same as the Victron Multiplus. Looking at the two, I have higher confidence that the Victron will be able to deal with the peculiarities of my NMC battery pack. I also really like the Victron family of products and they play well together which is why my system will be entirely Victron: Inverter/charger, SCC, 12V/24V DC-DC Charger and point of load 24V/12V DC-DC converters.
 
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/d/sacramento-overstock-solar-panels-for/7161111858.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/d/magemount-boviet-pv-solar-module-panel/7161626993.html

As for batteries there are numerous threads about peoples purchases from China. The Fortune cells are good (and I think I know where to get up to 16 in a hurry) but I think they are a bit overpriced as well ($1600 for the equivalent of 4 Battle Born Batteriies in capacity) )however they are still way cheaper than BB. The EVE cells I have sold to others are the cheapest route. I will be placing another large order soon but I am still in negotiations so I am not advertising them yet.

All you need is 4 or 8 cells and a BMS .
Where are you in CA Im in Hollister if you need help? At least I am when I am in California.

I also like the Samlex EVO but it is only marginally cheaper than a victron and honestly may be a little loud for a van build. If you went with a stand alone though Samlex is definitely way to go. by stand alone I mean inverter only.
 
Normally this comes up very early in a thread... how many watt hours of power do you intend to use (and replace with solar) on a daily basis?

The answer to this will best provide the answer to your question.
So this is what I have come up with so far:
ApplianceDaily Power
Macbook 85w255w (3hour dead-full charge)
Iphone 510w (2h dead to full)
12 puck lights 3w each180w (12@3w each for 5hours?)
Dometic CFX Fridge 100W1200w (Not sure how long this runs for to stay cool throughout the day)
Vitamix 1380w1 minute
Tea Kettle 1500w2 minutes
Led strip lights 36w72w
Pentair SHURFLO Pump 4008 90w20mins max (shower/dishes)
Maxxair Deluxe 60w480w(8hrs generous guess)
24 inch tv 40w400 (10hrs m-f trade stocks)

Here's the specs for the Dometic CFX fridge:
  • Operating Voltage (AC): 12/24V DC & 100V-240 AC
  • Operating Frequency: 50/60 Hz
  • Initial Startup Current (12VDC): 10.5A
  • Initial Startup Current AC: 0.95A
  • Energy Consumption DC
    (Ambient = 90°F Compartment Temp = 41°F):
    1.5Ah/h
This is all rough estimations for what I believe I will be using on a daily basis and for how long.
 
One point you may not have considered. Check out getting insurance on your VAN and after you have converted it.

NONE of the insurance companies I talked to in Arizona would touch a DIY converted RV. I am converting a Ford E350 Super Duty cargo van into a camper van. The van has commercial plates and insurance (insurance runs me about $1300 a year). I don't have a business and just getting commercial insurance was a major pain. I had to go through an insurance broker and he found a company that would insure me at an affordable rate. I was getting quotes in the $4K a year range, just for commercial insurance.

In my case, my van is going to remain a cargo van. It just so happens that sometimes the cargo will consist of a bed and kitchen galley. The big thing to watch out for is when you put running water and a toilet in a vehicle that absolutely turns it into an RV and they have totally different licensing and insurance requirements. Your state has different laws that apply then and you need to know what the ramifications are of what you are doing.

Get the insurance situation nailed down before you buy that van. Find out if any of them will cover a DIY RV conversion. Companies that will insure Class B RVs have turned out to be unwilling to insuring a DIY conversion, at least in Arizona.

None of the youtube videos about RV Van conversions discussed this issue at all. I don't know if these people doing RV conversions are just running without proper insurance or if they are paying through the nose, but it matters.

This is a much more important issue than your choice of batteries.
 
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So this is what I have come up with so far:
ApplianceDaily Power
Macbook 85w255w (3hour dead-full charge)
Iphone 510w (2h dead to full)
12 puck lights 3w each180w (12@3w each for 5hours?)
Dometic CFX Fridge 100W1200w (Not sure how long this runs for to stay cool throughout the day)
Vitamix 1380w1 minute
Tea Kettle 1500w2 minutes
Led strip lights 36w72w
Pentair SHURFLO Pump 4008 90w20mins max (shower/dishes)
Maxxair Deluxe 60w480w(8hrs generous guess)
24 inch tv 40w400 (10hrs m-f trade stocks)

Here's the specs for the Dometic CFX fridge:
  • Operating Voltage (AC): 12/24V DC & 100V-240 AC
  • Operating Frequency: 50/60 Hz
  • Initial Startup Current (12VDC): 10.5A
  • Initial Startup Current AC: 0.95A
  • Energy Consumption DC
    (Ambient = 90°F Compartment Temp = 41°F):
    1.5Ah/h
This is all rough estimations for what I believe I will be using on a daily basis and for how long.

Yes you need at least a 200 AH 12v battery or a 100 Ah 24 v battery either way your system is completely dooable
 
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/d/sacramento-overstock-solar-panels-for/7161111858.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/d/magemount-boviet-pv-solar-module-panel/7161626993.html

As for batteries there are numerous threads about peoples purchases from China. The Fortune cells are good (and I think I know where to get up to 16 in a hurry) but I think they are a bit overpriced as well ($1600 for the equivalent of 4 Battle Born Batteriies in capacity) )however they are still way cheaper than BB. The EVE cells I have sold to others are the cheapest route. I will be placing another large order soon but I am still in negotiations so I am not advertising them yet.

All you need is 4 or 8 cells and a BMS .
Where are you in CA Im in Hollister if you need help? At least I am when I am in California.

I also like the Samlex EVO but it is only marginally cheaper than a victron and honestly may be a little loud for a van build. If you went with a stand alone though Samlex is definitely way to go. by stand alone I mean inverter only.

Those panels on craigslist look good! I'm going to contact them. Any good resources/videos on how to inspect used solar panels? I'll check out that Samlex Evo stand alone. And I'm in the East Bay area near Dublin, so not far from you! Your help would be extremely generous as I am lost even after spending 14 hours a day all week researching this. Luckily I have been able to spend that much time on this:LOL:.
 
Building your own battery is kinda the point of this website (Will Prowse has a bunch of videos about doing exactly this). However, most people spending the kind of money you are talking about don't do that. Battleborne batteries are very high quality and have a 10 year warranty. If you buy them, you will not need to put any further thought into your batteries for a very long time.

If you are interested in learning the intricacies of building battery packs and find the idea of saving 40 to 50% on the batteries to be a compelling thing then don't hold back. Watch as many of Will's videos as you can first, then dive in. Understand that if you get in over your head, you can smoke a lot of expensive parts.

If you aren't looking for a new hobby or feel like it might be overwhelming, then just spending the $1800 for the Battleborne batteries and know you have the absolute very best LiFePo4 batteries you can buy. This is actually pretty unusual. Most fields it is possible for DIY to provide better quality/performance than commercial products. In the case of LiFePo4 batteries that is not true. You can save money with DIY, but they won't out perform Battleborne.

I am building my own battery pack. I am an odd ball and am building it using automotive Li-ion NMC cells (which 95% of the people on this site won't touch). I am also an EE and the primary reason I am here is this interests me and I want to learn. The NMC battery pack is an experiment and if it doesn't work out for me, then I am going to buy a pair of Battleborne batteries myself. My system is designed for 24V because that has significant advantages for use with a 2000W inverter. Pretty much everything else in my system is going to be Victron, because everything I have learned about the industry and Victron has convinced me that they design and build the very highest quality products. I appreciate that they are engineered to meet published specs and provide a very long, trouble free life. A lot of the products for sale will do neither.

I have very little confidence in the vast majority of the other inverters I have seen on the market. Basically if it costs less than $600 to $700, then run away. The difference between acceptable and best is about $400 to $500. I chose to spend the extra because I believe the quality and features of Victron make them worth it.

Samlex Evo is also a top tier inverter, but it costs pretty much the same as the Victron Multiplus. Looking at the two, I have higher confidence that the Victron will be able to deal with the peculiarities of my NMC battery pack. I also really like the Victron family of products and they play well together which is why my system will be entirely Victron: Inverter/charger, SCC, 12V/24V DC-DC Charger and point of load 24V/12V DC-DC converters.

Although Battleborn at one point was the Gold Standard -- The prices - the quality - and the durability of Chinese manufacturers have started making Battleborn obsolete (Keep in mind that they get their batteries at the same places we do - then just tweak and repackage them) ... anyway ... you can get TWICE the POWER for HALF the cost if you do this all yourself -- which is pretty damn easy to do ...
 
Those panels on craigslist look good! I'm going to contact them. Any good resources/videos on how to inspect used solar panels? I'll check out that Samlex Evo stand alone. And I'm in the East Bay area near Dublin, so not far from you! Your help would be extremely generous as I am lost even after spending 14 hours a day all week researching this. Luckily I have been able to spend that much time on this:LOL:.

Take a volt meter -- lay the panels in the sun - take a reading .. the reading should be close the Voltage out of what the panel is rated at .... /// ... look at the panel left to right .. top to bottom and make sure there are NO cracks in the cells or the panels (it will be VERY obvious) ... look at the condition of the frame and make sure that it does not look like its been tossed or blown off a roof ... then take a quick look at the cable and MC4 connectors and make sure that all the clips are there and that there is NOT rust or sand ... That's about it ...
 
That's good to hear I added that up and was like damn there goes the whole build budget:LOL:. I haven't had any luck on craigslist really, so I think I will stick with 1-2 of the Renogy 300w 24v monocrystalline panels from home depot that were mentioned on the first page. Do you have a link to a DVM (Digital VoltMeter?) that you would recommend?

Here is my go-to DVM ... its absolutely great ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCFR7VR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... for some reason they are behind in deliver so I would look for this on ebay perhaps .. 35.00 is a good price .. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE 206D MODEL ...
 

This is all rough estimations for what I believe I will be using on a daily basis and for how long.

You may want 2 fans, 1 in front and 1 in back so you can have good airflow thru the van, one for intake and the other for exhaust, if you have room on the roof for 2 holes. You left off your cooking appliance(s) such as induction burner, and/or microwave. I have a 3 qt instant pot and make steel cut oats each morning using a mere 0.14 kWh, you can make all kinds of food in it and max draw is 700 watts, once it's up to pressure it barely cycles on much in the cook time. Pressure cook, steam, sautee, slow cook, etc. Don't know how much $ or which dometic cooler you're looking at, but I have a truckfridge tb51A works great one zone $600 delivered and if ever needed there's a service center in Tucson for it.

Fun project, keep us apprised!
 
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