Amazon Pre-built

[ObiWan]

Hello - first post here. Been interested in self-generating power for some time and finally getting around to acquiring some seriousl batteries to make it practical.

Love Will’s YouTube tutorials. Was going to make my own but don’t have a lot of spare time. Found this on Amazon and wondering if Will (especially) or anyone else has purchased on of these and tested them.

Amazon.com: Lifepo4 100ah 200ah 300ah 400ah 12V Lithium ion Battery for Solar System/Motor Home/Boat/Golf Carts car battery (12V 200ah ×1pcs): Automotive

Buy Lifepo4 100ah 200ah 300ah 400ah 12V Lithium ion Battery for Solar System/Motor Home/Boat/Golf Carts car battery (12V 200ah ×1pcs): Ignition Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

The price was so good I ordered the 200 ah one and just received it. I am pretty impressed with it so far as far as the case goes. Very solid and professional (looks better than the one in the Amazon pics - those I think are prototypes. Took the top off to see if I could see what kind of cells they are but the BMS covers the cells and I didn’t want to disassemble further. Another purchaser said they thought they were “aluminum case orient power cells”

I charged mine up and am currently discharging to see what I get from it.

Here’s a pic with the top off.

 

[Jo.Jo]

Hi ObiWan, first post here too ;-)

It's so funny, I just wanted to write the same thing because I ordered the 100 ah version. Mine, on the other hand, is still on the move, but also wanted to read experience from others who have the same battery. I will get back to you as soon as I receive the battery and until then I will be happy to read your experiences.

 

[krby]

There's an active thread already on these packs:

ShunBin Battery Packs: 12V/24V 100AH and up ! A Complete RIP-OFF ! AVOID

EDIT OCTOBER 2020 ! WARNING !!! ShunBin IS A RIP OFF ! The sell "Advertise 24V/400AH" What they sent was 24V/350AH with USED / ABUSED 175AH cells. I did not update this previously on Page 1, because I thought people would look through the thread. Now I learned some are not. PLEASE...

diysolarforum.com

 

[Steve_S]

Check out this Amazon review of I arrived, Looks ok, works BUT

I arrived, Looks ok, works BUT

www.amazon.com

Interesting how this review does not show up in the link provided by the OP. upon further examination, it's a separate listing as 12V/###AH where my review is attached to the 24V/###AH … too bad.

 

[ObiWan]

They do have a lot of positive reviews also. So the jury is still out. Unfortunately for me, I used this DC watt meter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PKHPC1T/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And used my fridge as a power drain (didn't want to waste the power!). It was mostly drawing about 8 amps from the battery, sometimes getting up to about 30 amps. Ran it all day and then through the night but when I got up in the morning, the damn wattmeter had reset. I thought maybe it only went up to 100 Ah, so I continued. It was up around 60 Ah again yesterday when it reset again. So now I don't have any kind of accurate discharge reading and stopped the discharge (don't want to waste a full discharge). Will have to get a different wattmeter.

Any recommendations?

I know it's discharged at least 150 Ah and still reads 12.9 volts at rest.

Also, I know technically you should use .1C discharge rate to test them but will it make the reading that far off if it is only mostly pulling 8 amps and it is not continuous?

 

[Steve_S]

They do have a lot of positive reviews also. So the jury is still out. Unfortunately for me, I used this DC watt meter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PKHPC1T/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And used my fridge as a power drain (didn't want to waste the power!). It was mostly drawing about 8 amps from the battery, sometimes getting up to about 30 amps. Ran it all day and then through the night but when I got up in the morning, the damn wattmeter had reset. I thought maybe it only went up to 100 Ah, so I continued. It was up around 60 Ah again yesterday when it reset again. So now I don't have any kind of accurate discharge reading and stopped the discharge (don't want to waste a full discharge). Will have to get a different wattmeter.

Any recommendations?

I know it's discharged at least 150 Ah and still reads 12.9 volts at rest.

Also, I know technically you should use .1C discharge rate to test them but will it make the reading that far off if it is only mostly pulling 8 amps and it is not continuous?

Reviews on the shipping arriving on time, or how nice the case looks and how sturdy it is, does not tell you want's under the pretty wrapping does it. Then having the company offering only refunds IF you delete any negative reviews.... These are Red Flags of Warnings.

 

[ObiWan]

Steve, perhaps you could offer some positive help, like recommending a good watt meter so I can finish testing mine? Or maybe answer my question on the testing discharge rate if you have that knowledge? I think most of us are capable of reading and understanding reviews.

 

[Steve_S]

Well, I went out and bought anew DVOM with a Clamp Attachment but it's a Fluke, so big $$, I can't recommend any cheaper ones as I just don't know them. I tinker with other electronics so I can "justify" the high expense (well that's my story & Maggie buys that) so, I'm good eh !.

Load testing is not a simple matter but overall capacity is not that hard, using a known good 1000W / 120V device can drain you batteries via an inverter fairly quick to the point of BMS Low Volt shutdown (which hopefully is before the absolute bottom) and on charging should cut off before absolute Hi Voltage is reached, this it is up to the BMS and who knows what the ShunBin BMS board actually does (I cannot even find markings on the chips used, even with a lit magnifying glass). You also have to account for the inverter loss as well which adds to up to certain amount of amps (relative or the inverter, they are all different, IE my Samlex 4024 eats 18 watts but the old Yiyen 3024 ate 28 watts.

I can't help you on testing individual cells as such but some of the other folks here have setup test rigs for cells and even made complete DIY plans on how to make your own.

 

[Stiffmeister]

Unfortunately my Balmar SG200is not working. I cannot push the connector in for it to click and read Bank-1 SoC. Very pissed about that as I am in Cabo San Lucas now. I did purchase the 500ah. Did not take it apart but I only saw it drop to 13.2v once. That was after running 50w Klipsch speakers and a 600watt 12" sub for 8-9 hours. Good enough for me and ordered three more. If someone can build with better BMS and not lose the 13% (174 vs 200@h?) At the same price... Would be nice.

 

[ObiWan]

OK, I got a new meter, turns out the same one I then saw that Will used in a lot of his tests.

Charge-Discharge Monitor, DROK 0-90V 100A DC Ammeter Voltmeter, Battery Capacity Amp-Hour Watt-Hour Power Time Multimeter, LCD Display Digital Voltage Current AH WH Watt Meter Tester with Hall Sensor - - Amazon.com

Charge-Discharge Monitor, DROK 0-90V 100A DC Ammeter Voltmeter, Battery Capacity Amp-Hour Watt-Hour Power Time Multimeter, LCD Display Digital Voltage Current AH WH Watt Meter Tester with Hall Sensor - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I charged at 20 amps until the BMS kicked it off, then charged again with 3 amps until the BMS kicked it off again just to make sure it was fully charged. Discharged using my fridge and a small heater so the discharge current stepped between 3 amps and 10 to 13 amps (occasionally 30-33 amps). So not a constant .1C but a decent load.

I wasn’t able to constantly monitor it since I was gone/asleep most of the time but was there for the ‘end’.
Took the following notes:

148 ah: 12.63v
159 ah: 12.57v
160 ah: 12.49v
162 ah: 12.24v
166 ah: 11.83v
170 ah: 11.34v
173 ah: 11.03v

Very shortly after the last reading, it kicked off. It was pulling about 10 amps at the time. I was pretty sure this was the same amount I got the first time when the meter reset but couldn’t say with confidence due to the meter.
So, definitely not 200 Ah. Maybe using used cells or aren’t there 173 or 174 Ah cells?

If you are just looking at $$perAh, it’s probably still not a bad deal (unless they are used and have not many cycles left) but buying something that is claimed 200 and only puts out 173 is not cool. Typically chinese though I am afraid.

 

[Stiffmeister]

Those voltages seem low. Aren't you supposed to stop at 12.9 or 12.8? I haven't seen mine go below 13.3v for two weeks

 

[ObiWan]

That’s the BMS cutoff. Shunbin says the BMS cuts off at 10 to10.5. How many Ah did you pull and how many amps? And if you have a 500 Ah battery as you said, with small loads that would last a long time before the voltage drops.

 

[Stiffmeister]

I don't know. I can't get the Balmar battery monitor to work. I'm in Cabo so I can't send it back. Eventually...yes. Just hoping four of these 500ah (-15%?) Is enough to keep me off grid. Start construction this week.