Aikalowych
New Member
Hello all, I am a new solar owner/installer and stuck in a specific design aspect of my system. I plan on having 400W of solar mounted to the roof of my travel trailer (Springdale keystone mini) with a 40A charge controller and 2000W inverter. My issue is about the concept of transfer switches. I have watched Will’s video on wiring a transfer switch in an RV and I mostly get the concept, however, I’m stuck on one part. To preface - my trailer only has one battery so i plan on the house/cabin battery being the same as the solar battery.
At the end of the video he mentions that you should wire in your own battery charger, bypassing the onboard converter charger, IF YOU DONT WANT to use the converter charger that comes with the RV. I’m not sure if that’s because he’s talking about charging LiFePO batteries? And not sure whether or not you can choose to use the onboard converter charger (WF-8735P in my case).
My question is: Can I wire the onboard converter charger circuit directly to the transfer switch as a way to avoid having the charger active while the inverter is powering the system? Does that make sense/is that possible? Or should I disconnect it altogether and do what he suggests and get a progressive LiFePO battery charger? I’m hesitant to get that battery charger because I might install the system without LiFePO batteries and just upgrade from the sealed lead acids that I currently have a little down the line. So I would like to keep using the converter charger that comes with the trailer.
Bonus question: do you have any recommendations for transfer switches? I was probably going to purchase the go power TS-30 that he showed in the transfer switch video.
Below are some specs:
Onboard convert charger: WFCO model WF-8735P
Battery: Currently 200Ah 12V sealed acid but would like to upgrade to at least 200Ah LiFePO at 12V
Inverter: Renogy 2000W pure sine wave
Charge Controller: Renogy 40A MPPT
Rig: 2021 Springdale Keystone Mini
Draw: main power needs are a mini fridge, an electric kettle once a day, water pump and lights, among charging phones and laptops occasionally. I haven’t done the full calculation but I would guesstimate it to be around 1200Wh of power consumption every day give or take.
Thank you all in advance!!
At the end of the video he mentions that you should wire in your own battery charger, bypassing the onboard converter charger, IF YOU DONT WANT to use the converter charger that comes with the RV. I’m not sure if that’s because he’s talking about charging LiFePO batteries? And not sure whether or not you can choose to use the onboard converter charger (WF-8735P in my case).
My question is: Can I wire the onboard converter charger circuit directly to the transfer switch as a way to avoid having the charger active while the inverter is powering the system? Does that make sense/is that possible? Or should I disconnect it altogether and do what he suggests and get a progressive LiFePO battery charger? I’m hesitant to get that battery charger because I might install the system without LiFePO batteries and just upgrade from the sealed lead acids that I currently have a little down the line. So I would like to keep using the converter charger that comes with the trailer.
Bonus question: do you have any recommendations for transfer switches? I was probably going to purchase the go power TS-30 that he showed in the transfer switch video.
Below are some specs:
Onboard convert charger: WFCO model WF-8735P
Battery: Currently 200Ah 12V sealed acid but would like to upgrade to at least 200Ah LiFePO at 12V
Inverter: Renogy 2000W pure sine wave
Charge Controller: Renogy 40A MPPT
Rig: 2021 Springdale Keystone Mini
Draw: main power needs are a mini fridge, an electric kettle once a day, water pump and lights, among charging phones and laptops occasionally. I haven’t done the full calculation but I would guesstimate it to be around 1200Wh of power consumption every day give or take.
Thank you all in advance!!
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