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That’s totally out of context10 amp fuse in multimeters too
That’s totally out of context10 amp fuse in multimeters too
So it was the first one I linked? I'm confused.. You said it wasn't the same as the SS (I assume SS = screen shot) that it was a din rail MCB not MCCB and now you say it is an MCCB? (NQCM1Z-160)The one I use is NQCM1Z-160. The DZ47Z are din rail MCB style. and do not carry the same interrupt ratings.
What I mean by AC rated is if you look at the breaker it is marked for AC voltage and amperage. It does have going for it that it is UL listed.
SS is Signature Solar.So it was the first one I linked? I'm confused.. You said it wasn't the same as the SS (I assume SS = screen shot) that it was a din rail MCB not MCCB and now you say it is an MCCB? (NQCM1Z-160)
What's UL Listed, the MCCB? It is 10 times the price so I would hope it is much better lol
oh ok, yea I know that one's different. It's what the EG4 uses in their batteries and on inverters etcSS is Signature Solar.
Good find. That at cursory glance would be just about ideal for my proposed battery combiner box. The NanQue breaker is too massive for that kind of usage.oh ok, yea I know that one's different. It's what the EG4 uses in their batteries and on inverters etc
I like the MCCB more..
I think @Hedges would agree too though that this is probably more trustworthy https://www.stellavolta.com/midnite-solar-mnepv125-80-1pnp-circuit-breaker-125a-80vdc/
and it's the same price lol
oh no that 2 amp fuse shouldn't blow at 8 amps after several minutes!! the wires can still take more!! who cares what the number on the fuse is!
yea I got one of those nanque too, any breaker from any company can die at any time but the massive amount of testing is always reassuring.Good find. That at cursory glance would be just about ideal for my proposed battery combiner box. The NanQue breaker is too massive for that kind of usage.
Incidentally I am not endorsing any breaker as being better than another. My comments are simply to mention what I am using and why I choose it.
every store is having this problem, like many stores, aliexpress is better than amazon, they'll actually remove fraudulent items if you report them.That's why I try to avoid getting anything from Amazon, especially electrical stuff. They have Dihool breakers I was looking at and just can't bring myself to purchasing that as a main breaker for my system. It's basically turned into an American outlet of Aliexpress.
I don't trust the specs of these reputable fuses either, since time and time again we see them not actually doing what they say they do. Almost every genre of device that exists has this problem
I periodically short my battery cables to make sure they still work.You do perform maintenance on your circuit breakers, don't you?
I tried looking at this and it is poorly thought out and hard to follow. Even skipping ahead to each segment for a few seconds. For one thing his conclusion that generic rings terminals he bought on Amazon were no good, because he could pull out the wire after crimping, simply meant he made an inadequate crimp. You have to watch for this when you have a crimper set for a thicker constructed terminal versus a thinner one of a given wire size. The Metric to Standard dimensions is also an issue frequently encountered.hilarious coincidence he's doing testing of them
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Yes. I have that issue. My favorite little “B” crimpers don’t always crimp amazone-sourced bare crimps because they are sometimes thin barrels, sometimes metric even if you searched for awg. This solves it for most ring terminals but of course is wrong for MC4, PL-259, various coax etcMetric to Standard dimensions is also an issue frequently encountered.
I get so pissed off when I pull a wire out of a crimp which is why I have so many crimpers: one of them is going to make a nice shaped tight swage if I wind up with off-sized crap somehow, or if impatient I’ll just flip and crimp from the opposite side. Or if it is not a ‘fitting’ those Channelocks^^^ always make the smaller ones tight.Put this way you crimp the darn thing until the wire does not pull free.
After reading this I didn’t bother watching.I would not follow this fellow for any valid results regarding fuses.
Project Farm has an entire channel on youtube with hundreds of millions of views total dedicated to manufacturers making stuff that don't meet what they say they doDo you have examples of them not doing what technical specs say they will do?
Or are you still hung up on the fact that a 100A fuse can carry significantly more than 100A for a significant length of time, and you think that is just wrong?
Fuses are probably more trustworthy than breakers. Breakers get stiff after a while, have higher trip current. You're supposed to periodically snap them off and on a few times to keep them loose. You do perform maintenance on your circuit breakers, don't you?
naw those terminals are indeed crap, can get them on aliexpress too. It's nearly impossible to make a crimp that actually holds the wire.I tried looking at this and it is poorly thought out and hard to follow. Even skipping ahead to each segment for a few seconds. For one thing his conclusion that generic rings terminals he bought on Amazon were no good, because he could pull out the wire after crimping, simply meant he made an inadequate crimp. You have to watch for this when you have a crimper set for a thicker constructed terminal versus a thinner one of a given wire size. The Metric to Standard dimensions is also an issue frequently encountered.
Put this way you crimp the darn thing until the wire does not pull free.
I would not follow this fellow for any valid results regarding fuses.
The class T dropped about 1% and also got surprisingly hot.