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Chargeverter Woes

Withered+Flame

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Mar 16, 2023
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I have tried everything with this setup:

Trying to get the chargeverter to work with 120v.
It shows no amps out and my mulitmeter agrees.
tried 4 amps current, 48v charge, 57v charge, 25 amps current, testing the outlet, and switching it on and off during various points.
Any ideas?
 
If it turns on, then you should have the AC wiring correct. Lights on both boards inside the unit?

I assume you flipped the DC breaker to On. Without a battery connected. You should be able to read the correct output voltage across the DC connection.

You may need to open it up to find out where a connection is not being made.
 
I have tried everything with this setup:

Trying to get the chargeverter to work with 120v.
It shows no amps out and my mulitmeter agrees.
tried 4 amps current, 48v charge, 57v charge, 25 amps current, testing the outlet, and switching it on and off during various points.
Any ideas?
I followed your link and it is showing not available. Might be a defective adapter. Are you getting power through your adapter?
 
I have tried everything with this setup:

Trying to get the chargeverter to work with 120v.
It shows no amps out and my mulitmeter agrees.
tried 4 amps current, 48v charge, 57v charge, 25 amps current, testing the outlet, and switching it on and off during various points.
Any ideas?
That adapter won't work.
You have to replace the plug, on the cord.
 
That adapter won't work.
You have to replace the plug, on the cord.
Depending upon how the amazon adapter is wired, you may be able to rewire the plug on cv.

Move one of the power lines on the cv plug to the unused neutral line. Note: only one of the power lines on the amazon adapter may be connected, so move the non-connected line on the cv plug.
 
Depending upon how the amazon adapter is wired, you may be able to rewire the plug on cv.

Move one of the power lines on the cv plug to the unused neutral line. Note: only one of the power lines on the amazon adapter may be connected, so move the non-connected line on the cv plug.
It's never a good idea to rewire a connection device to some configuration other than standard. Because it can be plugged into the standard and create a Hazzard.
I don't recommend making your own adapter, for the same reason.
The only safe way is to replace the cord end.
 
One other option is what I did.
Wire a generator inlet box outside and wire it to an outlet inside. If you are wanting house power then just ad the outlet instead of altering something that might need a warranty claim.
 
It doesn't use a standard wiring config. It comes with a generator plug with hot hot neutral ground but it doesn't want 120v on the hot and neutral it wants 120v on the hot and hot. The neutral is not connected.

You can install a whole new cord, or wire up a non standard adapter to get 120v hot and neutral onto the hot and hot.
 
It is a standard configuration for 240v.
It needs a new cord end, to be used on a standard configuration for 120v.
A non standard adapter is asking for a Hazzard. That's why you can't buy an adapter for it. (They are illegal)
 
It is a standard configuration for 240v.
It needs a new cord end, to be used on a standard configuration for 120v.
A non standard adapter is asking for a Hazzard. That's why you can't buy an adapter for it. (They are illegal)
Well I would accept that interpretation but the manual specifically portrays a nonstandard pinout option for the 4 prong plug. (It is not illegal to make or sell whatever kind of cord you want, it's a free country. But UL won't list it.)
 
A standard pinout doesn't require that all pins are used. Only that each pin that is used, is used in a standard configuration.
The chargeverter can work with a range of voltage.
You just have to use the correct cord end for the voltage you want to use.
Most of the current led light fixtures are also made to work with a range of voltage.
And use the same European conductor color coding.
Brown, blue, and yellow with a green stripe.
And you connect the power circuit (whatever voltage you have) to the Brown and blue.
 
Right, and the manual has a diagram misusing pins. Go look if you want. Or don't.
It's not.
There are two isolated circuit conductors and a ground wire.
Both pinout diagrams are correct.
 
I guess I'm forgetting that electricians are never wrong, they're just right twice in two different directions.

It's an illegal adapter and a perfectly acceptable relocation of the isolated grounded conductor onto the hot terminal.
 
It's an illegal adapter and a perfectly acceptable relocation of the isolated grounded conductor onto the hot teterminal.
It's not a grounded conductor. Maybe that's where you are getting confused.
The adapter is illegal, because it creates a Hazzard if used for anything else.
Anyone could grab the adapter and think that it's ok to use. Just because the ends match their needs.
This is why we have standards. So that if the ends match, it is safe to use.
 
I don't know why you're so focused on correcting me rather than looking at what I'm talking about. Are you defending this 120v L14-30P pinout?
Screenshot 2023-09-09 at 9.51.30 AM.png
 
A standard pinout doesn't require that all pins are used. Only that each pin that is used, is used in a standard configuration.
If you take the plug that comes with the chargeverter, and move Blue (L2) to not used (neutral), wouldn't that be allowable 120v wiring of the L14-30R, and work with the amazon adapter? Might need moving Brown (L1) instead of Blue, but that should be ok too (depending upon which of the 120v pins is connected to the other end of the cable).
 
If you take the plug that comes with the chargeverter, and move Blue (L2) to not used (neutral), wouldn't that be allowable 120v wiring of the L14-30R, and work with the amazon adapter? Might need moving Brown (L1) instead of Blue, but that should be ok too (depending upon which of the 120v pins is connected to the other end of the cable).
Yes, that would be acceptable.
But if you are taking it apart, anyway. I would just change the cord end. And not need the adapter.
I don't know why you're so focused on correcting me rather than looking at what I'm talking about. Are you defending this 120v L14-30P pinout?
View attachment 166766
I can see how that's confusing.
It would be better if they just gave a wiring diagram. Instead of using a picture of the existing cord end to explain what wires to use.
Maybe even better, if they show a 120v cord end. And which wires go where. That way, almost anyone could make sense of it.
 
Hi All, My Chargeverter is run through an Intermatic 240v timer... *polarity matters*... one way, the unit will not deliver power...
so if you're doing something similar, and the readout shows 0A, try reversing the brown & blue...

If anyone can explain this, I'd be interested. Signature Tech Support could not.
 

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