diy solar

diy solar

Help ?

Bgudme

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Joined
Oct 1, 2019
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5
Hey
Can anybody help figure out what settings i need 2 change on this cheap chargecontroller to get the most out off the batteries. Tried adding 2 adittional batteries but seeams like it does not make i big difference to the runtime. Powering my landroid through a 1000 watt inverter. Maybe there is a better way to convert to 20 v
 

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One panel, 250 watts (?) in optimum conditions. So typical less than that. I have no idea what a landroid is but you need to look at watt hours needed to power it across a day vs watt hours produced by your lone solar panel.

If your landroid thing takes 20v DC in avoiding the inverter and AC power supply for the thing will improve efficiency. Without any more information it's hard to tell you more than that.
 
One panel, 250 watts (?) in optimum conditions. So typical less than that. I have no idea what a landroid is but you need to look at watt hours needed to power it across a day vs watt hours produced by your lone solar panel.

If your landroid thing takes 20v DC in avoiding the inverter and AC power supply for the thing will improve efficiency. Without any more information it's hard to tell you more than that.

Worx landroid lawnmower. Yes single panal 280 watt. Can't find a stepup for 12 v to 20 v. Think maybo the settings for the batterie type is wrong cant figure out if the battery type is flooded type ore gel type.
 
Battery has Valve Regulated printed on it so highly likely it's a flooded cell type but not intended to be refilled. I'm not familiar with your solar controller, but it looks like one of those generic cheap PWM controllers. You should select type 'sealed' not flooded.

Flooded may let the controller do equalisation charging on the battery. It will drive off the electrolyte and ruin the battery since you can't easily add more distilled water to replentish the cells.

Cheapie ebay boost converter to take 12vto 20v. Quality unknown.

How many amp hours and voltage is the battery in your lawnmower, or if it states it, how many watt hours charge does it hold?
 
Battery has Valve Regulated printed on it so highly likely it's a flooded cell type but not intended to be refilled. I'm not familiar with your solar controller, but it looks like one of those generic cheap PWM controllers. You should select type 'sealed' not flooded.

Flooded may let the controller do equalisation charging on the battery. It will drive off the electrolyte and ruin the battery since you can't easily add more distilled water to replentish the cells.

Cheapie ebay boost converter to take 12vto 20v. Quality unknown.

How many amp hours and voltage is the battery in your lawnmower, or if it states it, how many watt hours charge does it hold?
Battery has Valve Regulated printed on it so highly likely it's a flooded cell type but not intended to be refilled. I'm not familiar with your solar controller, but it looks like one of those generic cheap PWM controllers. You should select type 'sealed' not flooded.

Flooded may let the controller do equalisation charging on the battery. It will drive off the electrolyte and ruin the battery since you can't easily add more distilled water to replentish the cells.

Cheapie ebay boost converter to take 12vto 20v. Quality unknown.

How many amp hours and voltage is the battery in your lawnmower, or if it states it, how many watt hours charge does it hold?
it is 20v 2 ah. I measured 1.1 amp standby draw from the batterie 5.5 while the landroid is charging. Maybe a better solution is to add an adittional panel then ? There is not many ours of sun here.
 
If sun exposure is your problem another panel in parallel will certainly help. If possible get the same make/model panel as the first one.

Your battery is approx 40 watt hours from your figures. Even a single panel should be able to give you enough charge for that unless you have really poor sun exposure for the panel.

The inverter is putting a load on your battery any time it is turned on, even with no load on its output. If your inverter is always on this would not be helping.

The inverter is probably around 80% efficient, and the charger likely similar efficiency. This means that for every watt that goes into your solar battery bank, only 0.64 watts comes out of the worx DC power supply port. Additional losses in the battery charger itself are likely. If it's possible to use a 12v > 20v boost converter to avoid using the inverter and DC power supply you will increase watts in / watts out to 0.8 watts.
 
If sun exposure is your problem another panel in parallel will certainly help. If possible get the same make/model panel as the first one.

Your battery is approx 40 watt hours from your figures. Even a single panel should be able to give you enough charge for that unless you have really poor sun exposure for the panel.

The inverter is putting a load on your battery any time it is turned on, even with no load on its output. If your inverter is always on this would not be helping.

The inverter is probably around 80% efficient, and the charger likely similar efficiency. This means that for every watt that goes into your solar battery bank, only 0.64 watts comes out of the worx DC power supply port. Additional losses in the battery charger itself are likely. If it's possible to use a 12v > 20v boost converter to avoid using the inverter and DC power supply you will increase watts in / watts out to 0.8 watts.

I have an adittional panel i could try. The landroid battery is 40wh the batteri on the system 5 20 ah batteries is combined 100 ah * 12v = 1200 wh is that right ?
 
In practice you have half the rate capacity of the lead acid batteries available. It's advisable to not take them below 50% charge if you want them to last.
 
I know so i switch off the inverter when my batteri messuring thing says 50 procent. Byt by my calculations if the battries where fully charge it schould run longer then 2 days when the lawnmower is not actually running. Thats why i came to the conclusion that rhe batteries never gets fulle charge by the controller
 
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