How safe are the Chinese dc breakers?

[Nan_wpg]

Cost, size, and installation compatibility.

I would recommend stranded, for this type of terminal. But I have had solid #12 connected to them for over a year.

Without checking the specs. My eyeballs say that #6 stranded will fit in the terminal.

Cost, size, and installation compatibility.

I would recommend stranded, for this type of terminal. But I have had solid #12 connected to them for over a year.

Without checking the specs. My eyeballs say that #6 stranded will fit in the terminal.

Good to know I can use either. So, what “types” of terminals are good for stranded or solid,wire? What do I need to know?

Also, the Amazon breaker is it the kind (polarized or not?) that I can have the power running either direction? Or is it coming in from the top, and out the bottom?

 

[timselectric]

I have around 50 of these in my system, no issues at all. But I have the same brand in 125a breakers for my aio, and batteries, and I have had at least 3 failures in the 30 of these I have.

Yeah, I wasn't as confident in the larger amperage breakers. I had one failure and switched to the Nader breakers for batteries and AIO's. More expensive, but no failures. And they run cooler at full loading.

 

[timselectric]

Good to know I can use either. So, what “types” of terminals are good for stranded or solid,wire?

Generally
A clamping type terminal is best for stranded wire.
A set screw type is best for solid wire.
If it's a screw into a flat surface. A solid wire can be wrapped around it. Or a stranded wire placed in a crimped ring/fork terminal.

Also, the Amazon breaker is it the kind (polarized or not?) that I can have the power running either direction? Or is it coming in from the top, and out the bottom?

It is polarized.
Follow the markings on it. (+ -)
Recommend connecting PV to the top.

 

[B-Mod]

Yeah, I wasn't as confident in the larger amperage breakers. I had one failure and switched to the Nader breakers for batteries and AIO's. More expensive, but no failures. And they run cooler at full loading.

Funny thing it the 3 that failed were 1000v rated, since those few 1000v ones I purchased, I was only able to find 500v rated 125a breakers, and none of them have failed. I do not get any crazy heat from them and I have pushed close to 800a of power into my batteries. I do have all low volt 48v wiring up sized to 2/0 welding cable.

 

[timselectric]

Funny thing it the 3 that failed were 1000v rated, since those few 1000v ones I purchased, I was only able to find 500v rated 125a breakers, and none of them have failed. I do not get any crazy heat from them and I have pushed close to 800a of power into my batteries. I do have all low volt 48v wiring up sized to 2/0 welding cable.

It very well could have been a bad batch. Only the first one (1kv) of mine failed, also.
Two others (500v) are still running fine.
But I have already decided on the Naders, now.
At least for the batteries.

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

I JUST had one of those breakers fail I use as a disconnect at array. Was in the "IP65" (as China claims) enclosure below. So, I did failure analysis. Obviously moisture still got in breaker, and it affected the "tuning" of the trip mechanism (?). This breaker started tripping all the time...

We had a discussion of IMO recently - its actually NOT made in China. It's not perfect, but probably better than others similar.

 

[timselectric]

I JUST had one of those breakers fail I use as a disconnect at array. Was in the "IP65" (as China claims) enclosure below. So, I did failure analysis. Obviously moisture still got in breaker, and it affected the "tuning" of the trip mechanism (?). This breaker started tripping all the time...

We had a discussion of IMO recently - its actually NOT made in China. It's not perfect, but probably better than others similar.

View attachment 193067View attachment 193068

What type of connector is in the bottom?
Could it have been the egress point for moisture?

 

[Nan_wpg]

I JUST had one of those breakers fail I use as a disconnect at array. Was in the "IP65" (as China claims) enclosure below. So, I did failure analysis. Obviously moisture still got in breaker, and it affected the "tuning" of the trip mechanism (?). This breaker started tripping all the time...

We had a discussion of IMO recently - its actually NOT made in China. It's not perfect, but probably better than others similar.

View attachment 193067View attachment 193068

So the enclosure failed, causing the breaker to,fail? Breaker likely would have been fine?

What was the consensus of the IMO discussion? Where are they made?

 

[B-Mod]

What type of connector is in the bottom?
Could it have been the egress point for moisture?

What about the top connector?

 

[Andrewr05]

Personally I would never ever ever ever use any of these off brands.

You can find deals on Nader and Eaton and Schneider out there, why EVER stoop to the low of an off brand piece of safety equipment?

Even if you're just using it as a switch and you're not worried about it's interrupt capability I would still NEVER use one.

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

What type of connector is in the bottom?
Could it have been the egress point for moisture?

2-wire gland - pic (same top/bottom. Edit: Top shown):

Yes I paid A LOT more attention now with a replacement getting these, and the case halves connectors/ gasket all tight. DIY installer error is definitely a possibility

 

[Partimewages]

Is that the top or bottom? Sticker makes me think top.

 

[Andrewr05]

Yeah I wouldn't use anything with a hole on the top at all that was open like that.

Those types of gland connectors are designed to be pointing down.

If you absolutely need something to come out of that box on top put at least a 90⁰ connector of the same style in that area instead, rather than what amounts to a funnel going into the enclosure.

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

So the enclosure failed, causing the breaker to,fail? Breaker likely would have been fine?

Yes. I've subsequently noticed these small breaker enclosures differ in details, some look a little better. I was a total noob when I did this, didn't know any better. They all looked the same at a quick glance

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

Those types of gland connectors are designed to be pointing down.

Agreed, who knew China would do us wrong.

 

[Nan_wpg]

Personally I would never ever ever ever use any of these off brands.

You can find deals on Nader and Eaton and Schneider out there, why EVER stoop to the low of an off brand piece of safety equipment?

Even if you're just using it as a switch and you're not worried about it's interrupt capability I would still NEVER use one.

I’m having a hard time finding a Nader dc 600v 32a 2 pole on Amazon. Any ideas? What about Midnite solar dc. Breakers?

 

[Nan_wpg]

I thought someone posted on these forums that you aren’t supposed to use a breaker for a disconnect or something ,one those lines?

Or was they can’t be used for a rapid shut down maybe?

 

[Brucey]

2-wire gland - pic (same top/bottom. Edit: Top shown): View attachment 193070

Yes I paid A LOT more attention now with a replacement getting these, and the case halves connectors/ gasket all tight. DIY installer error is definitely a possibility

Maybe run a little piece of steel off the rack to give the breaker enclosure a little roof/cover to stop rain hitting that top entry directly?

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

What was the consensus of the IMO discussion? Where are they made?

I don't want to link that, lol. I maybe got put on some "Ignore" lists about it, playing devil's advocate . Imho, plastic is not the long term answer. Edit: I think everybody agreed IMO is notably better than other similar disconnects.

It appeared IMO is currently made in Austria??

 

[Andrewr05]

I’m having a hard time finding a Nader dc 600v 32a 2 pole on Amazon. Any ideas? What about Midnite solar dc. Breakers?

What's your PV voltage input maximum?