diy solar

diy solar

Inflated/swollen lifepo4 battery

Last question, and i will add again that i had to cut off a part of my rv, one of the very last of this model in running and original condition.
Ive always been on pwm and switched to mppt, if i keep my pannels on 24v 200w on my surviving 12v battery, do i loose half power, good/bad/nvm conséquences, on a mppt? For now until in can fix it
I feel sorry for you that you had to cut in your lovely rv in order to free the batteries!
But luckily your rv didn’t catch fire!

For a MPPT it doesn’t matter if the battery is 12 or 24 Volt. You don’t loose any power as you would with pwm.
MPPT is great for high voltage input, because this is where you run long cables to the solar and you want the amperage down as much as possible.

So if partly shading on your panels is not a problem, you want your panels in series to increase the voltage and lower the amperage.

Then mount the MPPT charger close to the battery in order to have short cabling and avoid voltage drop.
 
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Just curious. What were you doing with the 24V pack? Running a 24V inverter? Just trying to figure out if your configuration had something to do with what happened.
Yea i was on 24v pannels, 24v battery and 24 220v inverter
 
Just to add to my previous post the victron mppt can be changed obviously to output a different voltage in settings. But doesn't do it 'automatically' if previously connected.
I got my mppt to work on 24v pannels and 12v battery by plugging the battery on the inverter output of my mppt.
Since I'm not sure if i stay on 12 or 24v, i have no 220v now, but i don't mind
 
This Post is useful AND relevant, with LiPO4 pouch cells finding their way in to readymade batteries on the market (essentially) this year. The big advantage of the form factor is much more compact size, which Really HELPS when extreme size constraints are at play. That being said, in my personal quest to gain more knowledge, the scientific papers become a bit overwhelming.

Will did an entertaining, yet Scary vid when he drilled in to a pouch and it literally exploded ? While on another channel (DC Guy ?), drilled MANY holes in one, doused it with copious amounts of water, and basically no catastrophy.

Now, I understand that the pouch form factor is Widely used in markets like EVs and cell phones, my initial thoughts are that those are LiON. And there are hundreds of thousands of EVs on the road, and millions of cell phones in pockets, their general safety seems …. ‘Good’ … until the story of a phone exploding, or EV on fire that cannot be extinguished is breaking news. Low rate of incidence ….

With “Kitten’s” experience, it brings me back to my hopeful Request of the Hive Mind, for input on Safety as it pertains to this kind of ‘new’ form factor in 12V DC 100ah offerings. Assuming that extreme care is taken in assembling (the system): optimal metal compositions/pairing, Isopropyl cleaning of contacts, torquing to spec, overkill wire/cable gauging, …

Are LifePO4 POUCH cells a noteworthy Risk, compared to Prismatic, or is this the ‘new evolution’ ?
 
I don't think it's the 'norm' to have ready built LiFe PO4 pouch batteries. There are some and ocaisionally a brand will change from prismatic to pouch or pouch to prismatic, there is no indication on the case. The trend, if it exists, would be towards prismatic, since they are produced in Increasing huge quantities.
I am in contact with a number is startup companies in the UK selling lithium batteries. Most use prismatic cells, with a minority using multi cylindrical cells ( like Battleborn). None of them uses pouch cells in the batteries.

What is kind of interesting is that the Renogy 100Ah battery used to be available very well connstructed with pouch cells, they are now advertising the use of prismatic cells, implying its an advantage.

Mike
 
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Understood & Appreciated. I MIGHT be able to make a 400ah DIY that may fit my space requirements, using 3.2V prismatics.

I DEFINITELY can get 400ah ready made pouch format batts to fit in (restricted) space …..
 
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