Do large solar panels (400+ watts) have enough strength to withstand RV road shock? I'd like to install 400+ watt panels, about 9-10 of them on my RV roof, totaling about 4000 watts. The panels I'm looking at are about 40"x80", several different options from signature solar. It seems to be a very long span of glass to bounce down the road without any support in the middle. Does anyone have experience with large panels in a mobile application? Do they crack hitting bumps or on dirt roads?
large panels and road shock
- Thread starter wesbrew
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RV10flyer
Solar Wizard
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- Mar 8, 2021
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My 475W QCells flex a lot in 50 mph winds. I got underneath the array just to see how much. I would stick with smaller panels with center supports. Besides, they are easier to install and easier on our backs.
chrisski
Solar Boondocker
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Since 3000 watts would fill up every square inch of my RV roof, I assume you have a 40’. Plus RV and you are elevating the panels above air conditioners?
I’ve seen 320 watt installations on RVs on an elevated rack mounted system, but not 400s.
I really appreciate any feedback you all might have on this plan. Yes my RV is 40'. The big panels are tempting...fewer wires and lower $/watt but I think they will cost me more in anxiety with every bump in the road. I can't believe my RV stayed together traveling I-10 through Louisiana...I'm doubtful 80" span of glass would last 5 miles. I am removing the roof AC's and replacing them with a ducted mini split AC. However, I am leaving the 2 maxair fans so I plan to run the panels contiguous down each side, leaving just about 18" down the center open for the fans, walking, and maintenance access. The only remaining roof obstacles are the vents about 3" high so I plan to rack the panels up 4" from the roof over top of the vents. For the rack I plan to use 2x3 box aluminum the same used to build pool screen cages, and probably just short 6" lengths to allow rain runoff.
50ShadesOfDirt
Solar Enthusiast
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Panel installation guides seem to indicate that most (recent?) panels have a series of mounting holes. The minimum set of mounts gives a lower force rating, and the maximum set gives a higher rating. So, if you have the installation guide for your exact panel, see what it says about the mounting methods.
I'd also call 'em up and ask specifically about RV mounts ... see if they are knowledgeable about that kind of mount.
I'd also call 'em up and ask specifically about RV mounts ... see if they are knowledgeable about that kind of mount.
Well, i use to use smaller panels (250-320) and would only get 6 per bus. You don’t want overhang on the front as it scoops air off the window, you proba want a smaller to no gap up top as panels wider than the vehicle create hazards when parking (trees) and may even gain the attention of highway patrol if you exceed maximum legal width.
one customer had 4 more panels on a trailer with a patch cord with trailer wiring, another had a few extra panels stored he could take out and prop up.
some here have made cool panel under panel slide out contraptions for when parked (also provides shade) but at the cost of weight and you have to build it.
We use to mount just a few inches off the roof to keep air getting under them to a minimum, and I have driven all over the country this way in terrible weather with no issues. I did use roof sealant in every screw hole and between brackets and roof and brackets and panels to keep them from vibration loosening. Most the brackets were just aluminum angle cut at 6” long and screwed to the sides of the panels. If you want roof access, you could use hinges down one edge of the panel, just get stainless ones with fixed pins And use bolts/locknuts on the bracket Side.
one customer had 4 more panels on a trailer with a patch cord with trailer wiring, another had a few extra panels stored he could take out and prop up.
some here have made cool panel under panel slide out contraptions for when parked (also provides shade) but at the cost of weight and you have to build it.
We use to mount just a few inches off the roof to keep air getting under them to a minimum, and I have driven all over the country this way in terrible weather with no issues. I did use roof sealant in every screw hole and between brackets and roof and brackets and panels to keep them from vibration loosening. Most the brackets were just aluminum angle cut at 6” long and screwed to the sides of the panels. If you want roof access, you could use hinges down one edge of the panel, just get stainless ones with fixed pins And use bolts/locknuts on the bracket Side.
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